JWB37

Alright, I'm fed up with. These POS Pro Comp ES3000 shocks. I feel every bump in the road and I just about have to be 4 low to get over speed bumps without getting whiplash. I have a RE lift that's sitting at 4.5in right now, and the shocks are supposed to be good for up to 4", so they're a little short. But still it feels like they're running out of up travel going over the smallest speed bumps. Not to mention just super harsh everywhere else.

Obviously a bit exagerated, but they suck. A lot. What shocks would you recommend for my lift? I don't want to spend more than $100 per shock. I was thinking bilsteins 5100s, but what do you all think? I don't know a whole lot about the different brands.

Outlaw Star

First off your "shock" absorber lesson.1) They don't actually absorb shock but dampen the spring oscillations. (They slow the springs flex rate down.) If you bend a soda tab back n forth, what happens? It breaks cause the metal heated up from working it too much. Same concept applies to the springs of a vehicle. If you do not slow the "flexing" down then the spring becomes overworked and either breaks or sags. 2) Now when choosing a shock, you may notice there's either gas charged or hydro shocks. Hydro (hydraulics) are always the cheapest due to being an OEM style. But if you live on bumpy, dirt roads then the fluid inside can overheat causing the shock to fail. Nitro shocks are charged with a gas rather than fluid. Meaning they dissipate the heat faster and last longer. 3)Shock length is also important. You stated that you have a 4 inch shock on a 4.5 inch lift. The shock may not be able to cycle fully, transferring all the vibration/hits to the chassis.
When you choose a shock, ask yourself the same question when choosing a lift. How will my car/truck mainly be used? Sorry to ramble but I try to explain it as easy as I can.

ClassicX

I think the billsteins are good; I chose the rancho 9000's however. It's nice being able to adjust the shocks on the go. Especially if you end up with a car full of fat-***** one day while wheeling.

JWB37

Thanks for the little lesson, I really needed that lol. I've never been the greatest with shocks, but I know these ones are BAD. They don't allow the springs to oscillate very well. Unless I hit a huge bump, it feels like the springs are fighting the shocks to compress when I drive down a bumpy road. Would a .5" really make that big of a difference? Either way, these shocks have a pretty bad rep. I'm hoping to replace them sometime after X-mas, and maybe get a shackle relocation bracket also to help.

DeftwillP

5150 255/70 valving

Gatchmo5710

U long Arm yet? If not do that and leave your shocks alone for now

JWB37

Well, the rear is the worst of it. I figured shocks are needed anyway, and with a shackle reloaction bracket, I can smooth that out too. It's definatly cheaper than long arms and will solve more of my problems. Once that's squared away, ill look into long arms.

JWB37

How would I find out what length shocks I need? Is there a chart or guide I can look at, or do I need to measure it?

Daltonamorph

You need to measure to get the best length for you specifically.

JWB37

Do I measure the height when its on level ground, or do I need to measure the length at maximum flex?

ClassicX

Level ground. If you go with billsteins, I would call them and tell em' what you got going. They'll know what you need. The 5150's are usually custom valved for your application so they'll need you setup info anyways. If you choose to go with your own measurements, in my experience you want about 60/40 split, 60 down travel, 40 up.

SeriousOffroad

You don't need to call them, all of the info you need can be found on their online catalog.

I've got some of them on my site for the more popular sizes too.

Let me know if I can help.