Yeah, stupid me did not read the original post carefully. I see that 4x4 was his reasoning but still, someone went through all this trouble and ended up with a 35.

dana 35...

I dont have the money right now to do a rear end swap, I do plan on it eventually and when I do I will go with a 8.8 with disks, the previous owner did the 4x4 conversion, and as to why he put a dana 35 back in it I HAVE NO IDEA. But For right now untill I get the money and find the right rear end I need to be able to stop.....

It doesnt matter what year the dana 35 came from all you tell them is you need drum brakes for a 1988 comanche with 9 inch drums

but the rear end came from a XJ as we established earlier

Find a junkyard C8.25. Nearly as strong as an 8.8 and it'll be direct bolt in plus you can sometimes find them with decent brakes already on there. frigging 90$ for an axle at the local upull here.

From what I researched, the 8.25 with the 29 spline is the only one worth getting. and statistically the ford 8.8 is much better than even the 29 spline 8.25.

http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f8...rd-8-8-a-5627/

Read guys this is an MJ not a XJ.

Oh and lol I spelt my name wrong LOL

Brandon

thanks bud

so whats the question anymore cuz now im pretty confused on everything goin on here

First is was what rear end did I have, Cause It was obvious by the shock mounts that it was not a stock dana 35 out of the mj, I guess we later established it was a dana 35 out of a xj though. SO the whole point of this tread is I need to do the brakes in the back but didnt know what axel to by brakes for. So Now can I just go to the parts store and say I need xj brakes/drums/cylinders/ect out of any year or what?

It's really not that much better and tends to cost more and will require a good bit more to swap it in. Unless you're running larger than 35s it's not necessary and the 8.8 won't hold much over a 37. If you plan on tires larger than 35s you'll need a different front axle as well so I'd skip the 8.8 then as well. Around here a decent 8.25 goes for 50-150 bucks and the 8.8 is 150 and up and then you'll need new mounts and the adapters and the drive shaft shortened so plan on another 150-200 and you see why the 8.25 is a better, at least cheaper, swap. Also the 8.25 will be much easier to match your front gear ratio if you don't want to regear right away.

the year shouldnt really matter, they will ask you what size though. and for the brake lines you need to figure out how long you need them and the diameter of them is 3/16 (not 100% on that)

I was just going to order a set of extended stainless brake likes cause mine are leaking anyway. I guess my best bet is to just take the drum old pads and everything up there when I go then..

ya dont reuse those springs that are in there, and spent a lot more on stainless when regular steel will be plenty?