What else can cause "Bump Steer" sensations?
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What else can cause "Bump Steer" sensations?
I have a 99' with 160K on it. Lifted 4.5", SA, with drop brackets, RC X-flex adjustable uppers/lowers, RC track bar with drop bracket, Rubicon 3.5" leaf springs with HD Shackle boxes, RC extended shackle.
Stock stuff just replaced-Wheel hubs (Timken) both sides in front, PS wheel side U-joint, DS axle housing upper control arm bushing, NAPA Durango PS gear/with C-rok spacer plate.
Stuff replaced within a 1.5-2 years-all tie rod ends, swing arm bushings, New Falken Wild Peaks.
I am on stock steering (I do have the thicker ZJ tie rod, and a dropped pitman arm-RC).
I also have Bilsteins 5100 series.
My ride sucks. It seems to have since I started the lift. I did it myself, first lift-but not new to shade tree mechanics. I've done timing belt services, water pumps, brakes, injectors, bumpers, assorted shad tree mechanic stuff. No inside motor or tranny jobs (just to give you my experience level). I know I am a newbie to 4x4/Lift stuff.
When roads are smooth, I don't have any complaints of the Jeep's ride. It's when I start hitting pot holes and anything bigger than that.
I used the string method a while ago to check the relationship of the track bar/tie rod. Looked good others said, though I can post another pic if that helps, to any pics.
What else could be happening? Thanks.
Stock stuff just replaced-Wheel hubs (Timken) both sides in front, PS wheel side U-joint, DS axle housing upper control arm bushing, NAPA Durango PS gear/with C-rok spacer plate.
Stuff replaced within a 1.5-2 years-all tie rod ends, swing arm bushings, New Falken Wild Peaks.
I am on stock steering (I do have the thicker ZJ tie rod, and a dropped pitman arm-RC).
I also have Bilsteins 5100 series.
My ride sucks. It seems to have since I started the lift. I did it myself, first lift-but not new to shade tree mechanics. I've done timing belt services, water pumps, brakes, injectors, bumpers, assorted shad tree mechanic stuff. No inside motor or tranny jobs (just to give you my experience level). I know I am a newbie to 4x4/Lift stuff.
When roads are smooth, I don't have any complaints of the Jeep's ride. It's when I start hitting pot holes and anything bigger than that.
I used the string method a while ago to check the relationship of the track bar/tie rod. Looked good others said, though I can post another pic if that helps, to any pics.
What else could be happening? Thanks.
Last edited by Vincenza V; 01-13-2014 at 08:26 PM. Reason: added items
#3
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Some things to check would be track bar bushings and rod end... Ball joints....steering shaft .... I'm sure others can add to that list but I had the same issue ad noticed a little slop in each if those and after I fixed them it was much better
#4
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What exactly does bump steer feel like? I have almost the same setup. I have replaced almost everything as well. A local guy that does lifts gave me his opinion. He says...anything in the 2-3 range with short arms makes for a decent ride. However, when you go over that it makes the arc of the short arm way more severe. Pretty much saying. If your at 4.5 like I am and u want a decent ride. Long arm is a way better choice even for highway use. Mine absolutely sucks! Idc if its Rough Country or what. It sucks!
#5
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I do realize that its a lifted uni-body. But when I bought it it road great with a 2-3" lift and 31s. Just didnt realize it would change so much
#7
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Damn. I'm glad I'm not alone ! I can't believe so many have a similar set-up and the same symptoms.
I thought the CAD brackets would make it ride like a 2" lift vehicle because my lower control arms a pretty darn parallel with the ground.
Some thoughts:
1. Maybe my RC X-flex bushings are too tight, since you can tighten them down as they wear, maybe if I loosen them up it would help?
2. I did the DS upper/lower ball joints less than 1.5-2 years ago. I was only able to get to the PS lower balljoint due to rust issue-severe/time constraint. The PS upper is still OEM, but when trying to pry on it with a long crowbar while lifted and under load. I can't see any movement. Maybe that doesn't exert enough force to show.
3. My Caster angle (Measured the way recommended online (jeep-xj-info-poor man's way) with the angle finder against the front diff cover bolts is 85*2 Degrees as of right now, where it's at on the garage floor. I adjusted it a week ago, and on that spot on the floor, it was 86*. So either my caster changed 1* or the garage floor variable have come into play. I'll have to bring it somewhere woo to get a computer reading done.
4. I checked my steering shaft by grabbing it, I am able to twist it by hand and it turn, but I thing that is just the steering wheel turning. I grabbed the steering wheel in one hand and reached over to the steering shaft, twisting each in opposite directions (I'm tall-long arms…) and the shaft feels fine.
The main sensation I am trying to describe as crappy handling is a lateral rocking, side to side, when hitting pot holes or bigger. Not anything unsafe, but definitely annoying. I also notice wind gusts blow this thing around, though that may be normal for a lifted brick shaped vehicle. I really want to know what could cause that lateral, rocking sensation...
I thought the CAD brackets would make it ride like a 2" lift vehicle because my lower control arms a pretty darn parallel with the ground.
Some thoughts:
1. Maybe my RC X-flex bushings are too tight, since you can tighten them down as they wear, maybe if I loosen them up it would help?
2. I did the DS upper/lower ball joints less than 1.5-2 years ago. I was only able to get to the PS lower balljoint due to rust issue-severe/time constraint. The PS upper is still OEM, but when trying to pry on it with a long crowbar while lifted and under load. I can't see any movement. Maybe that doesn't exert enough force to show.
3. My Caster angle (Measured the way recommended online (jeep-xj-info-poor man's way) with the angle finder against the front diff cover bolts is 85*2 Degrees as of right now, where it's at on the garage floor. I adjusted it a week ago, and on that spot on the floor, it was 86*. So either my caster changed 1* or the garage floor variable have come into play. I'll have to bring it somewhere woo to get a computer reading done.
4. I checked my steering shaft by grabbing it, I am able to twist it by hand and it turn, but I thing that is just the steering wheel turning. I grabbed the steering wheel in one hand and reached over to the steering shaft, twisting each in opposite directions (I'm tall-long arms…) and the shaft feels fine.
The main sensation I am trying to describe as crappy handling is a lateral rocking, side to side, when hitting pot holes or bigger. Not anything unsafe, but definitely annoying. I also notice wind gusts blow this thing around, though that may be normal for a lifted brick shaped vehicle. I really want to know what could cause that lateral, rocking sensation...
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#8
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Year: 91
Model: Cherokee
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I did my own alignment with a tape measure. Can go down a straight road for days with ought touching the wheel. Hit a bump and my steering gets all over the road. Especially going around corners. Going to upgrade my drag link and tie rod bull**** y link setup.
#9
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Year: 89
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Engine: 4.0 I6
Can you be specific with what your problem is op?
Bump steer is caused by the geometry of the steering components, most commonly it's because the drag link and track bar are no longer parallel. It can be caused by worn out joints as well, but you said you checked that. The stock steering setup isnt very effective past 4" though so you may look into other set ups.
Also, do you have sway bars?
Bump steer is caused by the geometry of the steering components, most commonly it's because the drag link and track bar are no longer parallel. It can be caused by worn out joints as well, but you said you checked that. The stock steering setup isnt very effective past 4" though so you may look into other set ups.
Also, do you have sway bars?
#10
I asked my stepdad about it (mechanic of 25 Years) he built my jeep before I had gotten it and he said it's just how the steering is set up on XJ's and the higher you lift them the worse it gets. that's what he told me anyway
#11
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I have the front factory sway bar, with quick disco's. I measure the disco's on each side with a hard ruler, to make sure they are the same length, before I attached them.
I took the rear off since from what I read here, they are useless.
Am I wrong in my understanding?
To be more specific, by lateral movement, I mean a rocking motion when hitting potholes or bumps. I rock L/R like a boat on the sea.
I took the rear off since from what I read here, they are useless.
Am I wrong in my understanding?
To be more specific, by lateral movement, I mean a rocking motion when hitting potholes or bumps. I rock L/R like a boat on the sea.
#12
Rough country suspension rides, as the name implies, rough. You want a smoother ride swap that out for something else.
If you're talking bouncy ride your shocks are probably done for.
If you're talking bouncy ride your shocks are probably done for.
#13
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Though it's not probable, just a little thing- my jeep had some bump steer on 4.5" and it turned out to be that my steering box spacer was all but gone and one of the steering box bolts was broken. Replaced all that and the bump steer went away.
#14
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Have Bilsteins that are several
Months old.
My steering spacer is several months old too, C-Rok brand. The bolts are new grade 8. I checked the unibody where it mounts before I put the reman'd Durango box up and it is fine.
Months old.
My steering spacer is several months old too, C-Rok brand. The bolts are new grade 8. I checked the unibody where it mounts before I put the reman'd Durango box up and it is fine.
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