Welded spiders in a CAD Dana 30
#1
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Year: 1986 Comanche
Engine: Chevy 350
Welded spiders in a CAD Dana 30
I know the Dana 30HP non-CAD ones are a dime a dozen but I chose to put the money into other areas of the Jeep and chose to cut off mounts on this one so I would not destroy a good one.
I'm mainly looking to see if anyone has done this mod and ran it for a prolonged amount of time? I plan on making my own cable to replace the vacuum. This axle will be getting swapped out later on down the line for a Dana 60HP (have the axle just not the funds for the swap yet). This idea seems to work in my mind but we all know how that goes...Any feedback is appreciated.
I'm mainly looking to see if anyone has done this mod and ran it for a prolonged amount of time? I plan on making my own cable to replace the vacuum. This axle will be getting swapped out later on down the line for a Dana 60HP (have the axle just not the funds for the swap yet). This idea seems to work in my mind but we all know how that goes...Any feedback is appreciated.
#2
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Ive thought about locking the front with my old CAD axle and in theory is would act like a selectable locker. The down fall here though is the small ujoints
#3
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Year: 1986 Comanche
Engine: Chevy 350
You do have a good point there on the u-joints. I might just lock the fork in and run it that way with an open diff for a while.
#4
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what size tires are you running?
i locked my cad 30 with the posi cable and still blew joints and shafts all day long.
you can always throw in a larger/newer axle shaft on the drivers side as that's the axle that will be engaged all the time. then just use your posi cable when the wheels are straight and in forward motion.
every joint i blew apart was when my wheels were either turned and/or when i put it in reverse.
mind you i was running bias 36's with only 2lb of air, which is a huge factor.
i locked my cad 30 with the posi cable and still blew joints and shafts all day long.
you can always throw in a larger/newer axle shaft on the drivers side as that's the axle that will be engaged all the time. then just use your posi cable when the wheels are straight and in forward motion.
every joint i blew apart was when my wheels were either turned and/or when i put it in reverse.
mind you i was running bias 36's with only 2lb of air, which is a huge factor.
#5
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Year: 1986 Comanche
Engine: Chevy 350
Right now I'm running 33x12.5's since I got them dirt cheap, but I also have a mildly built Chevy 350 putting the power to it. I'm trying to avoid putting in cash into this axle so I can build up the Dana 60HP. I never managed to blow up a u-joint in my old Cherokee (36x13.5's), did bend a housing and grenaded the gears in another housing though. I don't really wheel it like I stole it anymore but also don't stick to the easy stuff, the reason for the idea for the poor mans locker.
What did you use to lock the Dana 30 and did you use the PosiLock4x4 cable like what I have in mind?
What did you use to lock the Dana 30 and did you use the PosiLock4x4 cable like what I have in mind?
#6
CF Veteran
i used a powertrax lock-rite and a posi-lok 4x4 positive engagement cable with the upgraded iron fork.
i ended up pulling that axle and swapping in a d30 from a limited xj that has the larger joint abs shafts and no CAD.
until i get my hp44/9 inch finished...
i ended up pulling that axle and swapping in a d30 from a limited xj that has the larger joint abs shafts and no CAD.
until i get my hp44/9 inch finished...
#7
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
FWIW I believe the outer on the passenger side can be replaced with one from a 1995 YJ still has the center shaft but the 297 joint.
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