Welded the rear now for the front?
#1
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Welded the rear now for the front?
ok guys i welded my dana 35 in the 90 renix and it rode great at muddy gras i'm on 32 inch swampers, i was hard on it and nothing broke so i believe it will be fine as long as im not hopping or on rocks. so what should i do about the front? my other jeep is locked in the front and that thing would go through more than my 90 jeep especially on big inclines since the weight is on the front tires and both are getting power.
ive got the posi-loc cable installed on in the 90 on my dana 30 but its open diff, should i get an E-locker for it or weld it or would a lock right be alright? im wondering how the steering would be with something in the front.
it only gets trailered to the trails. welding would be the best bet right? seeing as i just pull my posi lock and i would be able to steer just fine right?
Thoughts?
ive got the posi-loc cable installed on in the 90 on my dana 30 but its open diff, should i get an E-locker for it or weld it or would a lock right be alright? im wondering how the steering would be with something in the front.
it only gets trailered to the trails. welding would be the best bet right? seeing as i just pull my posi lock and i would be able to steer just fine right?
Thoughts?
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a dana 30 isn't going to be strong enough to handle being welded. or at least I wouldn't trust it. it'll be really hard on ujoints, hubs etc. and steering would be a PITA. I'm really happy with my aussie. $250 and it works fine
#3
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This jeep only sees trails, the only times its on concrete is to back it off the trailer into my driveway. Wouldn't the welded Dana 30 not feel any different than it is right now as long as my posi lock cable isn't engaged? So if I can't turn around an obstacle on the trail I can push the cable and chug along? The lock right in my 87 Dana 30 binds up when going down trails in 4 Lo I just figured it was the same thing pretty much unless I'm only in 2wd. Then my ring gear won't turn
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ok guys i welded my dana 35 in the 90 renix and it rode great at muddy gras i'm on 32 inch swampers, i was hard on it and nothing broke so i believe it will be fine as long as im not hopping or on rocks. so what should i do about the front? my other jeep is locked in the front and that thing would go through more than my 90 jeep especially on big inclines since the weight is on the front tires and both are getting power.
ive got the posi-loc cable installed on in the 90 on my dana 30 but its open diff, should i get an E-locker for it or weld it or would a lock right be alright? im wondering how the steering would be with something in the front.
it only gets trailered to the trails. welding would be the best bet right? seeing as i just pull my posi lock and i would be able to steer just fine right?
Thoughts?
ive got the posi-loc cable installed on in the 90 on my dana 30 but its open diff, should i get an E-locker for it or weld it or would a lock right be alright? im wondering how the steering would be with something in the front.
it only gets trailered to the trails. welding would be the best bet right? seeing as i just pull my posi lock and i would be able to steer just fine right?
Thoughts?
#6
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if you have the vac disco, which in your case, you do, then locking it in any way will cause many u-joint failures.
swap in either a solid axle from either a limited/np242 jeep or a newer model with the larger 297 joints.
those little 260 joints your axle has won't last long with a locker, i've tried that. even with the use of the posi lok cable setup.
you can just swap out the axle shafts, but the passenger side is a little bit of work. you have to remove the small seal mid tube and install a seal at the pumpkin, then block off the vac motor hole.
swap in either a solid axle from either a limited/np242 jeep or a newer model with the larger 297 joints.
those little 260 joints your axle has won't last long with a locker, i've tried that. even with the use of the posi lok cable setup.
you can just swap out the axle shafts, but the passenger side is a little bit of work. you have to remove the small seal mid tube and install a seal at the pumpkin, then block off the vac motor hole.
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Sorry OP, I misread your post. You already did ditch the vacuum actuator and you have a cable system that allows you to engage or disengage your passenger front axle apart from the t-case shifter. I guess that gives you a "poor mans selectable locker." I've never done it that way but I know I don't like any cable or hose connected to my diffs or axles. I've also had bad experiences with welding diffs. Just my opinion but other then that it sounds like it should work. Have you looked at Lincoln spools?
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#8
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if you have the vac disco, which in your case, you do, then locking it in any way will cause many u-joint failures.
swap in either a solid axle from either a limited/np242 jeep or a newer model with the larger 297 joints.
those little 260 joints your axle has won't last long with a locker, i've tried that. even with the use of the posi lok cable setup.
you can just swap out the axle shafts, but the passenger side is a little bit of work. you have to remove the small seal mid tube and install a seal at the pumpkin, then block off the vac motor hole.
swap in either a solid axle from either a limited/np242 jeep or a newer model with the larger 297 joints.
those little 260 joints your axle has won't last long with a locker, i've tried that. even with the use of the posi lok cable setup.
you can just swap out the axle shafts, but the passenger side is a little bit of work. you have to remove the small seal mid tube and install a seal at the pumpkin, then block off the vac motor hole.
Is there a real tough ujoint for it? It's been a great axle and has given me 0 problems I'd hate to get rid of it, it only sees dirt, no rocks. Ugh I just don't wanna replace it.
#9
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Sorry OP, I misread your post. You already did ditch the vacuum actuator and you have a cable system that allows you to engage or disengage your passenger front axle apart from the t-case shifter. I guess that gives you a "poor mans selectable locker." I've never done it that way but I know I don't like any cable or hose connected to my diffs or axles. I've also had bad experiences with welding diffs. Just my opinion but other then that it sounds like it should work. Have you looked at Lincoln spools?
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http://www.trail-gear.com/spool-locker
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/wha...eed-buy-24555/
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Don't get me wrong, I'm not suggesting you put a spool in. I'm just answering your question about whether your idea would work to turn in 4wd. That was your question, correct? If so then yes. I just have a bias against welding diffs so i think anything is better then that. I also have a bias against cables and hoses. Lunchbox lockers are easily replaced and cheap, as well as being not quite so permanent.
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#14
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I dont know bout the lockright or not. seems like if im in 4LO and cruising down the trails, if the front driveshaft is putting alot of torque to the axle, i don't see it unlocking while in 4LO unless i put in back down to 2wd... the lockright in my 87 acts up when crusing down trails ive noticed (only when turning)
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thats the posi lok cable i have installed, works great.
I dont know bout the lockright or not. seems like if im in 4LO and cruising down the trails, if the front driveshaft is putting alot of torque to the axle, i don't see it unlocking while in 4LO unless i put in back down to 2wd... the lockright in my 87 acts up when crusing down trails ive noticed (only when turning)