williey00

i want to build a mud boggin xj with as little $$$$$ as possible, already got the tire 33*12.50r15,firestone m/t, stage II will be making them fit, so i want to get a lift, maybe one of them budget lifts with spacers for front and blocks for rear.will this be enough for my applications??????i dont need a lift or suspension with the crazy flex,looks awsome but the best thing i can crawl over down her in south texas are the speed bumps down the block,lol. even if i got to trim the fenders with them cheap lifts i will, give me your input
thanks
willie

93gc40

SawsALL cut them fenders.

williey00

so if i cut the hell out of the fenders i dont have to lift it

N20jeep

cut fenders and bumpstop correctly. i would atleast do a 2-3 budget boost.

what axle do you have in the back?

doing lunchbox lockers, or even lincoln lockers (if you're broke) are the best way to really do good in the mud on a budget.

williey00

its got dana 35 on the rear,going to do the gear upgrade very soon, i just want it to beat my brother and my buddies z71s,which compete in the local street stock class mud races. i am going to get RCV axles for the front as well, they are dana 30

williey00

quick question,when doing a juck yard lift kit, i read s10 bastardpack and bronco coils would give you a 4 inch lift, would i still have to do a sye kit, and what else would i need to do to make the lift?????might just go this route, what year s10 would it have to be????????????

PingPong

I have a 2dr XJ I plan on Bogging.. my plans are to cut it to clear 33's, and drive the hell out of it. Lincoln locking it front and rear too. It was a free jeep, and owes me nothing

brutalxj

If I built just for mud I would keep weight in mind. So I would use 2.5" spacers in front with adjustable upper and lower arms to push the axle forward possibly use a used AX15 front drive shaft for more length. Cut the hell out of the fenders might even take them off. In the back 3' shackles and cut some more. would try to fit 35's. Differential ground clearance is what you want. Would keep the axles you have yes I said keep a D35. Its light weight and will hold up in mud with 35's. Lock right locker for the front and weld rear. Remove carpet, rear seat, spare tire, any thing I didn't need to go in a straight line for a few feet. Use 4-low and give her hell. Oh for got the widest tires I could find 15" wide if possible. The wider the tires the less pounds per square inch. So the less you will sink wile bouncing off the rev. limiter!

xjmuddigger

not tryin to high jack you thread bo,but brutalxj,so your sayin a welded 35 would be good in mud? id think it would explode lol

brutalxj

In mud only seen a D35 hold up to 36's welded with 4.10's. Mud dose not have that much restriction and it will surprise you it did me. Not like rocks.

xjmuddigger

i have the dana35 with lsd and all i do is mud but i dont wanna weld it since its my DD,just keep my lsd

williey00

thanks for the input fellas, i might just do a juckyard lift on it,not sure yet just exploring my options. but as soon as i do it i will post up pics, i already did the engine so we will see where i go with this xj
thanks

ericfx1984

the good news is FLEX is not super important in a muddin' truck


I would do this...

FOR THE FRONT

coils spacers you can by them or make them
http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical...oilSpacers.htm

and/or

89-97 T-bird/Cougar springs V6 or V8, either will work... but the v8 is a little stiff (cost around $20 or less at the bone yard...

notes: you will need to make a coil adapter or mod the coil bucket top from the donor T-bird

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68842

you could get up to 8" of lift by using the tbird coils and a 3-4" spacer

however I would not go above 4 on stock lower control arms

they are fine 3-3.5"

that being said... lets continue

------------

for the rear

s10 bastard pack...

and/or

autozone / advance auto parts / o'reilly chevy lowering shackle 13-4100

this is adjustable for 1.6" or 2.6"


you can also make these for cheap too
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoShackles.htm



another option(assuming your welding skills are up to snuff)

http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoRearLeafMounts.htm

-----------

control arms...

lowers are fine up to 3.5" on the street but if you do not drive it on the road and do not care about axle droop then you could run it as high as 6"... BUT it will have terrible caster and almost no down travel, the axle will also slide back quite a bit

the uppers should be good up to 4.5" on the street...

a simple fix is making some control arm drop brackets...

ow you can run more lift

for instance... if you drop the control arms 4.5" (most pre made kits do this), and lift the truck 4.5" then you control arms will be at stock angles

see post 10-11
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/6f...sjeepxj-43533/

also they are simple to make yourself

for a mud truck long arms might be a waste of time

----------

misc

you will need to extend or relocate your brake lines front and rear

anything above the more lift the more likely you are to need a t case drop or a slip yoke eliminator (but again you might not care about vibes on a mud only truck above 5-6" you will need other drive shave things done

tires above 31" will need fender trimming almost every time... might as well get it done...

8" wide wheels with 4" BS seems to be a winner

for mud ONLY and never being on the road I would just weld the diffs...

williey00

wow thanks,i am going to make some calls tommorow will keep you guys posted on the build,but if anyone has a used 3 inch orso lift for sale let me know,or parts for that matter
thanks

xjmuddigger

is gonna be a only mud xj or will it be driven on the road or DD?