Vibs from rear
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Vibs from rear
Hi this is my first post here. Anyways let's get to the problem...
Specs:
96 cherokee auto
182k
Roughly about 6" lift
33s adventuro mt
Pro comp w/3.75 BS
Added components:
4.5 RC front springs
Acos adj. Spacers in front (turned all the way down)
Upper and lower adj. Control arms
4.5 RC leaf pack in rear
2" RC shackles
Rugged ridge sye (leaks a little from yoke)
Tattons driveshaft custom made
I installed an sye on my xj two months ago, and immediately problems began. At first I was getting vibs from the rear at 25mph+, shimmed with 8* that came with the leaf packs. Took the front ds off to see if that was the problem, still vibs. After some trail and error finally got my pinion angle a degree under the ds angle at 4* shims. Now I have slightly less vibs at 25mph, but as soon as I hit around 45mph they start to get terrible. Glove box rattles like crazy on the highway.
I replaced the trans mount, no better. Made sure my u joints were greased, they were. I still have the front driveshaft off now, getting bad vibs at 45mph+. I ordered a iro double shear track bar, which is coming hopefully this week. But don't see that as the problem.
So anyone have any ideas what could be the culprit. I'm dumping money trying to figure this out and so far nothing. Any help is much appreciated!
Specs:
96 cherokee auto
182k
Roughly about 6" lift
33s adventuro mt
Pro comp w/3.75 BS
Added components:
4.5 RC front springs
Acos adj. Spacers in front (turned all the way down)
Upper and lower adj. Control arms
4.5 RC leaf pack in rear
2" RC shackles
Rugged ridge sye (leaks a little from yoke)
Tattons driveshaft custom made
I installed an sye on my xj two months ago, and immediately problems began. At first I was getting vibs from the rear at 25mph+, shimmed with 8* that came with the leaf packs. Took the front ds off to see if that was the problem, still vibs. After some trail and error finally got my pinion angle a degree under the ds angle at 4* shims. Now I have slightly less vibs at 25mph, but as soon as I hit around 45mph they start to get terrible. Glove box rattles like crazy on the highway.
I replaced the trans mount, no better. Made sure my u joints were greased, they were. I still have the front driveshaft off now, getting bad vibs at 45mph+. I ordered a iro double shear track bar, which is coming hopefully this week. But don't see that as the problem.
So anyone have any ideas what could be the culprit. I'm dumping money trying to figure this out and so far nothing. Any help is much appreciated!
Last edited by Pennsydevil; 11-05-2013 at 06:15 PM. Reason: Forgot to specify which driveshaft
#2
Do you have a Gopro or similar that you can mount under the XJ toward the driveshaft? Might have to the get the pinion side and the output shaft side shots to see what is happening at those speeds. Was your driveshaft balanced properly? Is the transfer case chain tight? Do you have excessive axle wrap? More info is needed to make a diagnosis but those are a few ideas for you.
#3
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Update:
Removed rear driveshaft and replaced with stock front ds. Same vibes occur. No play in custom built driveshaft. Removed rear driveshaft completely and put stock front driveshaft on. Drive in 4high and no vibes. Problem seems to be coming from the rear. Possible axle warp? Transfer case? Driveshaft is fine, pinion angle is a degree or two under. Any opinions? I have a rugged ridge sye btw.. Output shaft seal leaks as all RR seals do.. Do they have problems with output shafts? I'm lost... Any insight on my problem?
Removed rear driveshaft and replaced with stock front ds. Same vibes occur. No play in custom built driveshaft. Removed rear driveshaft completely and put stock front driveshaft on. Drive in 4high and no vibes. Problem seems to be coming from the rear. Possible axle warp? Transfer case? Driveshaft is fine, pinion angle is a degree or two under. Any opinions? I have a rugged ridge sye btw.. Output shaft seal leaks as all RR seals do.. Do they have problems with output shafts? I'm lost... Any insight on my problem?
#4
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Join Date: Nov 2011
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
When running a double-cardan CV shaft the pinion should be set so that it's in a straight line with the drive shaft:
Less than ideal, but if you can't do that it should be pointed at the output yoke on the transfer case:
Where did the 8 degree shim have it pointed?
Also - how old is your RR SYE? Somewhere within the past month on one of these 9000 forums I saw a post where someone's RR SYE was actually machined wrong. The splines were actually off-center slightly, and if you turned the yoke by hand the joint would actually touch the double-cardan. Maybe get under there and turn it by hand
Less than ideal, but if you can't do that it should be pointed at the output yoke on the transfer case:
Where did the 8 degree shim have it pointed?
Also - how old is your RR SYE? Somewhere within the past month on one of these 9000 forums I saw a post where someone's RR SYE was actually machined wrong. The splines were actually off-center slightly, and if you turned the yoke by hand the joint would actually touch the double-cardan. Maybe get under there and turn it by hand
#5
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When running a double-cardan CV shaft the pinion should be set so that it's in a straight line with the drive shaft:
Less than ideal, but if you can't do that it should be pointed at the output yoke on the transfer case:
Where did the 8 degree shim have it pointed?
Also - how old is your RR SYE? Somewhere within the past month on one of these 9000 forums I saw a post where someone's RR SYE was actually machined wrong. The splines were actually off-center slightly, and if you turned the yoke by hand the joint would actually touch the double-cardan. Maybe get under there and turn it by hand
Less than ideal, but if you can't do that it should be pointed at the output yoke on the transfer case:
Where did the 8 degree shim have it pointed?
Also - how old is your RR SYE? Somewhere within the past month on one of these 9000 forums I saw a post where someone's RR SYE was actually machined wrong. The splines were actually off-center slightly, and if you turned the yoke by hand the joint would actually touch the double-cardan. Maybe get under there and turn it by hand
I bought my rugged ridge probably in late September, problems ever since the install. I will check the output shaft tmrrw if it's hitting the dc joint.
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Update: called tattons about my custom driveshaft since I thought it could be the u joints. Seems I'm the fourth person calling that has a rugged ridge kit this month complaining about this issue. Apprently RR has been sending out unbalanced output shaft (he said yokes but I believe he meant output shafts) and basically I got screwed on the sye kit. So sending in the shaft/yoke with the driveshaft this week to get them balanced together. The guys great, very helpful. I really recommend buying tattons driveshafts and sye kits(he sells a teraflex which he guarantees).
Will update when I get the driveshaft and shaft/yoke back.
In the mean time stay away from RR products
Will update when I get the driveshaft and shaft/yoke back.
In the mean time stay away from RR products
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#9
Herp Derp Jerp
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Parham, ON
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Update: called tattons about my custom driveshaft since I thought it could be the u joints. Seems I'm the fourth person calling that has a rugged ridge kit this month complaining about this issue. Apprently RR has been sending out unbalanced output shaft (he said yokes but I believe he meant output shafts) and basically I got screwed on the sye kit. So sending in the shaft/yoke with the driveshaft this week to get them balanced together. The guys great, very helpful. I really recommend buying tattons driveshafts and sye kits(he sells a teraflex which he guarantees).
Will update when I get the driveshaft and shaft/yoke back.
In the mean time stay away from RR products
Will update when I get the driveshaft and shaft/yoke back.
In the mean time stay away from RR products
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