using drop brackets and long arms
#1
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using drop brackets and long arms
OK this might have been covered but I can't find it anywhere would it be possible to use drop brackets and long arms to utilize the stock ride level of the control arms
#2
With actual long arms you completely remove the stock mounting points for all four control arms. Drop brackets wouldnt be something you would use with long arms.
Now if your talking about the adjustable short arms thats a different story. You could use them then.
hope that helps
Now if your talking about the adjustable short arms thats a different story. You could use them then.
hope that helps
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Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0 with all of the noise and clatter
No. Actual long arms will have a flatter angel than short arms ever will, no need for drop brackets, unless you hate having ground clearance.
#5
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Yeah I wouldn't like the fact of not having as much clearance but as for flex and getting the most out of the long arms as for flex with them being close to horizontal as possible it would utilize the most out of them and as for the clearance part as for getting across rocks make sum type of slider on the bracket ... I'm just throwing this out here its something I've been thinking about and wanted to get sum others input and thoughts about it
#6
My understanding is that the gain is so much by switching to long arms that there isnt much left to be desired. Keep in mind I dont have them (yet) just what I have red and seen on the trails.
I would think the ratio of flex to clearance would be important. Kinda like a go kart with great travel wouldnt be what you want nor would 12" of lift and 2" of travel. I would say if you have the ability to install them (welder and fab skills) it wouldnt be that hard to make said brackets after you have them installed. That way you could see if you liked in its natural state, wild and free under a dirty xj.
I would think the ratio of flex to clearance would be important. Kinda like a go kart with great travel wouldnt be what you want nor would 12" of lift and 2" of travel. I would say if you have the ability to install them (welder and fab skills) it wouldnt be that hard to make said brackets after you have them installed. That way you could see if you liked in its natural state, wild and free under a dirty xj.
#7
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Year: 1999
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I'm pretty sure you cant mount long arms to CAD brackets. They are much longer than short arms so your axle would have to be pushed forward pretty far. This is why long arm's mount to the cross member and not the factory location. I'm trying to picture in my head how that would look. Plus the whole point of CAD brackets is to give you the same horizontal control arm angle that came from the factory. It's a one or the other thing, not both.
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#8
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Not the actual brackets but the idea that the brackets serve to lower your long arms and give less stress on your frame and your arms take the shock versuses frame. I'm thinking best option for road use as well as off road use
#9
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it would give you no benefit, even if you were to mount them a few inches lower at the crossmember.
what you lose in its angle, if anything at all, is gained back by the huge travel radius.
what you lose in its angle, if anything at all, is gained back by the huge travel radius.
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The only thing running CADs will do on long arms in maybe make it ride a lil better besides that your just adding useless rock anchors. They're used on short arms to on higher lifts to get a better angle and allow for slightly more down travel, by allowing for more droop without pulling the axle to far back. If you dont think you'll get enough flex out of long arms you're mistaken. Im on mid arms and will loose a coil if im not careful. I got get more up the ramp, but 4wp makes you stop when you lift a tire.
3.5" and 31s
3.5" and 31s
#15
long arms give you a better radius when the arms move up and down so the axle doesn't move back and forward near as much as it does with short arms. The angle of the arms doesn't really matter as much. Most long arms are actually pretty parallel at 6.5 inches. The other thing you would run into with lowering the mounting point would be driveline bind