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Upper control arms

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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 07:49 AM
  #16  
ohio95xj's Avatar
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From: Dayton OH
Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by ktmracer419
Post pics of the setup you have. We could tell ya whats going on in there and better help you get the most bang for your buck.
Agreed, thats why we're here
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 07:54 AM
  #17  
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From: Eglin AFB
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I know my coil is all bent in a stupid way due to the control arm being bent like hell. But it's has a 6.5 actual kit on it with 1.5 inch spacers on the front. The rear is just leafs and blocks.
Attached Thumbnails Upper control arms-image-797112799.jpg   Upper control arms-image-2011164746.jpg   Upper control arms-image-1310157669.jpg   Upper control arms-image-1398833856.jpg   Upper control arms-image-46849002.jpg  

Upper control arms-image-2253270923.jpg  
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 08:07 AM
  #18  
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O
M
G

So many problems here....

Your Sway Bar links are in dire need of replacement.
Your down-travel is severely limited by the awkward and insane angle of the lower control arm.
No bumps stops!?!
Massive crack in your exhaust manifold.
Your caster and pinion angle are terrible.
Stock steering on 8" of lift? Dude!!! look at the severe angle of the TRE at the pitman arm.
I'd STRONGLY recommend a better track-bar.
Get rid of the blocks out back. They will aggravate axle wrap in a big, big way.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 08:29 AM
  #19  
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From: Eglin AFB
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Well the caster and all that is off right now because of that bent control arm. The whole axle is off right now. The lower control arms actually drop down like that and bend and go straight to the axle. And what's wrong with the track bar? It's an adjustable from Rustys. The sway bar end links I'm not to worried about right now, I'm gonna get a quick disconnect kit for it in the near future.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 08:35 AM
  #20  
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No,
The caster and pinion angle are off due to the lift height.

Look at the lower control arms at the axle. See how close the top of the arm is to the control arm bracket? That's a problem.

Do a search (here or google) and you might be surprised at the amount of info you'll find. Nuff' said on that subject.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 08:38 AM
  #21  
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From: Eglin AFB
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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So in other words Ur saying I new lowers as well. And a drop bracket for my drag link.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 08:40 AM
  #22  
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Actually I'm saying that at 8" of lift your much better off dropping some coin on a quality LongArm kit.

I'm not trying to bash you, just pointing out some things that really need to be addressed on your rig.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 08:56 AM
  #23  
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From: austin texas
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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You don't need long arms, you will be fine with RC drop brackets for your control arms.

I recommend removing the poly spacers, and getting drop brackets.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 08:58 AM
  #24  
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there is a whole lot of scary going on there.

honestly, start over.

if you really want to stay that tall, a quality longarm kit is in order, some steering capable of those heights (at least over the knuckle if not some form of high steer) raise the trackbar to match your drag link accordingly. amoung other bits and pieces.

I never reccomend going that tall on any xj, but the people who are dead set on it usually have tires large enough to "justify" it as well as the drivetrain to back it up. You have neither and my best advice would be to ditch the spacers and blocks while you redo everything.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 09:00 AM
  #25  
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From: Oklahoma
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Look at how much room is between you lower and your mount. Prolly half an inch that mean you only have Half an inch of droop. The curve in the lower is to help with the angles when your at like 4.5 of lift. If that was a straight arm you would have no droop what so ever. I agree and suggest dropping it down to 4.5 or 5.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 09:29 AM
  #26  
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From: Oklahoma
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Ignore my post I chimed in a lil to late. Serious has it covered.
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 09:32 AM
  #27  
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From: Bellevue, WA
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Pictures look like an advertisement for the use of control arms drop kit...
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 09:40 AM
  #28  
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Actually, if you do the drop kit, you will also need adjustable uppers and lowers to put your axle in the right spot, at the right angle and be able to align.

This is before dealing with correcting the steering...

The recommendation below to ditch the coil spacers in front and some blocks in the back, is actually a good one, if you want to avoid long arms... You will still need to drop the control arms and fix the steering and bump stops...
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 09:43 AM
  #29  
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From: Eglin AFB
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Yea I know it has some problems...I bought it pretty much how it is...but wish I would of got a stock xj and lifted it myself now. I do like the height that it's at and I plan on upgrading everything accordingly. Just wasn't sure weather I need long arms or not. Also plan on gettin the steering drop bracket and so forth to get everything where it needs to be
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Old Aug 30, 2012 | 09:50 AM
  #30  
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From: Eglin AFB
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I'm thinking I'm just gonna park the jeep for a bit save some money and do a long arm upgrade for the front. Do it the right way instead of the rigged up way the guy before me did
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