Upper control arm question...
02-14-2014, 07:54 PM
#1
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Upper control arm question...
Does anyone have any upper control arms laying around to be able to tell me the inner diameter of the bushing (bolt size) at the axle? Is it the same at the body like it is on the lower control arms?
02-15-2014, 11:11 AM
#3
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SCOBA
If you don't know the exact size, please, don't suggest what you think it is. This is someone's suspension, and suggesting putting in something that may not fit, based on your assumption, would be unsafe. Thanks.
If you don't know the exact size, please, don't suggest what you think it is. This is someone's suspension, and suggesting putting in something that may not fit, based on your assumption, would be unsafe. Thanks.
02-15-2014, 11:20 AM
#4
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Lol
K there hero, just trying to help.
Op could just go measure the hole on the mount and not worry about it. Or just go to ace and get a cpl 5/16" nuts and bolts for maybe $5 total and be done with it.
K there hero, just trying to help.
Op could just go measure the hole on the mount and not worry about it. Or just go to ace and get a cpl 5/16" nuts and bolts for maybe $5 total and be done with it.
Last edited by XRated; 02-15-2014 at 11:23 AM.
02-15-2014, 11:24 AM
#5
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No need to be a dick about it...you might wanna throw whatever at your ride, but not everyone else does. I'm guessing here, but the OP probably can't measure the hole because the CA is on the car or not available to measure. But I won't guess with what I think might work.
02-15-2014, 11:30 AM
#6
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
XJ, MJ, and TJ upper control arm bolts are flange head M10x1.5x75MM ISO class 12.9. If you can't find flange head (probably not/too expensive) make sure the washers you buy are hardened ISO class 12.9. A tight-fitting SAE grade 8 will work too.
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02-15-2014, 11:37 AM
#8
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I still have a note in my phone from when I went to the hardware store lol.
Anyway don't **** around with suspension bolts. If you're designing your own, that's one thing, but with stock it's important to keep everything within engineered parameters. Changing the size, clamping surface, torque preload, material, and of utmost important hardness without thinking it through will lead to premature failure. You do NOT want a suspension bolt shearing in two.
Anyway don't **** around with suspension bolts. If you're designing your own, that's one thing, but with stock it's important to keep everything within engineered parameters. Changing the size, clamping surface, torque preload, material, and of utmost important hardness without thinking it through will lead to premature failure. You do NOT want a suspension bolt shearing in two.
02-15-2014, 11:42 AM
#9
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...and that's kinda where I was coming from. I'd hate to see someone get into a twist from assumptions, that's all.
02-15-2014, 03:10 PM
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No need to be a dick about it...you might wanna throw whatever at your ride, but not everyone else does. I'm guessing here, but the OP probably can't measure the hole because the CA is on the car or not available to measure. But I won't guess with what I think might work.
Remember the "im not positive" part if my first post and also the "i re used the stock bolts" part thus supporting the fact that i know its probly not the correct dia but very close. Hell i was gonna say 9/32" but i thought that would leave a lil slop.
According to the post if the actual dia my guess was .4 mm off. That sure sounds like a nice tight fit and would be fine, for me anyways. To each his own, I guess.
02-15-2014, 04:45 PM
#12
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I still have a note in my phone from when I went to the hardware store lol.
Anyway don't **** around with suspension bolts. If you're designing your own, that's one thing, but with stock it's important to keep everything within engineered parameters. Changing the size, clamping surface, torque preload, material, and of utmost important hardness without thinking it through will lead to premature failure. You do NOT want a suspension bolt shearing in two.
Anyway don't **** around with suspension bolts. If you're designing your own, that's one thing, but with stock it's important to keep everything within engineered parameters. Changing the size, clamping surface, torque preload, material, and of utmost important hardness without thinking it through will lead to premature failure. You do NOT want a suspension bolt shearing in two.
02-15-2014, 06:29 PM
#13
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Not being a dick
Remember the "im not positive" part if my first post and also the "i re used the stock bolts" part thus supporting the fact that i know its probly not the correct dia but very close. Hell i was gonna say 9/32" but i thought that would leave a lil slop.
According to the post if the actual dia my guess was .4 mm off. That sure sounds like a nice tight fit and would be fine, for me anyways. To each his own, I guess.
Remember the "im not positive" part if my first post and also the "i re used the stock bolts" part thus supporting the fact that i know its probly not the correct dia but very close. Hell i was gonna say 9/32" but i thought that would leave a lil slop.
According to the post if the actual dia my guess was .4 mm off. That sure sounds like a nice tight fit and would be fine, for me anyways. To each his own, I guess.
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