Transfer case drop for 3" lift? Newbie doesn't know
#1
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Transfer case drop for 3" lift? Newbie doesn't know
I just finished installing a RC 3" series II lift. I have a slight vibe and I am sure I need a TC drop kit. Drive Shaft looks to have been pulled out about an inch, is this a dead give away?
Also, I now have a ratcheting sound coming from the rear when I apply the brakes. Has anyone come across this after lifting and changing the shaft angle? Would a TC drop fix this? Or, does this sound more like a brake or rear end gear issue? I removed the drums so I could pull one axle for stud replacement. Had to pull the C clip. Everything went back together fine and the brakes made no noise before but, they do need replaced.
Please
Also, I now have a ratcheting sound coming from the rear when I apply the brakes. Has anyone come across this after lifting and changing the shaft angle? Would a TC drop fix this? Or, does this sound more like a brake or rear end gear issue? I removed the drums so I could pull one axle for stud replacement. Had to pull the C clip. Everything went back together fine and the brakes made no noise before but, they do need replaced.
Please
#2
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A TC drop should definetly help you out. I thought a series 2 RC lift came with that? When i did my buddies series 2 lift it had one and it helped him out for sure. I may be wrong. That one might have been a 4.5. So dont quote me on that.
In the case of my 95 i had a 3" lift with no driveline vibs. Results may vary though. I would toss the tc drop in. But if you plan on building on your 3" to go bigger you might want to think about a sye.
In the case of my 95 i had a 3" lift with no driveline vibs. Results may vary though. I would toss the tc drop in. But if you plan on building on your 3" to go bigger you might want to think about a sye.
#3
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A slip yoke eliminator is the correct way to fix the problem, a t-case drop is the cheap way to do it.
i used 1x1" square tube to do mine, bought at the hardware store for like $6.
the hard part is extracting the studs that hold up the crossmember. Two of them are just bolts, the other two are studs and they are a REAL pain to get out if they're old and rusty (which they most likely are).
I had to heat with a torch, soak in PB Blast and wiggle back and forth for 20 minutes to get them to come free.
i used 1x1" square tube to do mine, bought at the hardware store for like $6.
the hard part is extracting the studs that hold up the crossmember. Two of them are just bolts, the other two are studs and they are a REAL pain to get out if they're old and rusty (which they most likely are).
I had to heat with a torch, soak in PB Blast and wiggle back and forth for 20 minutes to get them to come free.
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^^^^^^
mine were a b!tch too. had to use an extractor. glad that ***** over with.lol.
a tc drop should solve ur problem. but it is just a bandaid if u go offroad at all you need to be really care if you fully flex out, your shaft could come out.
if your a mall crawler you've got time, but should do an sye. i will do one once i regear. right now thats more important for me and yes mine is just a mall crawler.
now i personally wont go o/r at all until i do an sye, but i'm at 4.5".so my shaft is about 1 to 1 1/2 out. give or take.
mine were a b!tch too. had to use an extractor. glad that ***** over with.lol.
a tc drop should solve ur problem. but it is just a bandaid if u go offroad at all you need to be really care if you fully flex out, your shaft could come out.
if your a mall crawler you've got time, but should do an sye. i will do one once i regear. right now thats more important for me and yes mine is just a mall crawler.
now i personally wont go o/r at all until i do an sye, but i'm at 4.5".so my shaft is about 1 to 1 1/2 out. give or take.
Last edited by OEJ; 12-09-2012 at 06:55 PM.
#5
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Cool, thanks for the advise. I'm going to go with the TC drop first, just ordered one. I think that will take care of my problem until I can get an SYE and a Tom Woods CV setup.
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