SYE, Degree shims, front driveshaft, and TC drop? Anyone running this?
10-07-2013, 06:02 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Indiana
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
SYE, Degree shims, front driveshaft, and TC drop? Anyone running this?
i have right at 5 inches lift in the rear even though it was supposed to be 3 but thats besides the point. i installed a full SYE and front driveshaft in the rear. Also have 6 degree shims under the springs. Still having vibrations from the rear so have drop crossmember on the way. didn't want to lose clearance so i went with the full crossmember not just the T case drop. anyone else running a similar setup on a 99 auto? any input helps, thanks
10-08-2013, 04:14 AM
#4
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Indiana
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Springs were from crown but they were the heavy duty version that had 6 5/8 arch. Then added the leaf for 3 inches. Didn't realize all this till after the fact that's why it got so high. I'll try and get pics in a little while (still dark)
10-08-2013, 04:43 AM
#5
CF Veteran
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Broward County Fl.
Posts: 47,923
Likes: 0
Received 22 Likes
on
22 Posts
Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Im wondering if its over shimmed reason for pic, 6 degrees is a lot considering sye being used.
10-08-2013, 03:32 PM
#7
Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Oklahoma City
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L 242
Take a photo of your rear pinion angle. The output of your rear diff should point at or relatively close to the output shaft on your TC.
If it meets those requirements check your u-joints for slop. If all else fails get a new shaft cut for the actual size of your lift and distance from TC to rear diff.
FWIW, if you want it to be lower make a bastard pack out of what you currently have or sell what you have and get something smaller.
If it meets those requirements check your u-joints for slop. If all else fails get a new shaft cut for the actual size of your lift and distance from TC to rear diff.
FWIW, if you want it to be lower make a bastard pack out of what you currently have or sell what you have and get something smaller.
Trending Topics
10-09-2013, 06:24 AM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Indiana
Posts: 635
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
try these, i had these on another post, i can get more if needed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guntar13/10087541763/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guntar13/10087533013/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guntar13/10087524243/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guntar13/10087385334/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guntar13/10168074835/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guntar13/10168127746/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guntar13/10168192073/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guntar13/10168121886/
I also rebuilt the driveshaft before putting it in. It had really bad vibes, so i took the front out and stuck it in there. They didn't go away completely but were night and day difference. Yesterday took the driveshaft into a shop and had it checked and balanced. They said all the joints were perfect, the shaft was only 15 thousands out, the stock spec was 10, i asked if they could get it to 0 and they said no problem. so now the original shaft is perfectly balanced, but i haven't had a chance to get it in there yet.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guntar13/10087541763/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guntar13/10087533013/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guntar13/10087524243/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guntar13/10087385334/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guntar13/10168074835/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guntar13/10168127746/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guntar13/10168192073/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/guntar13/10168121886/
I also rebuilt the driveshaft before putting it in. It had really bad vibes, so i took the front out and stuck it in there. They didn't go away completely but were night and day difference. Yesterday took the driveshaft into a shop and had it checked and balanced. They said all the joints were perfect, the shaft was only 15 thousands out, the stock spec was 10, i asked if they could get it to 0 and they said no problem. so now the original shaft is perfectly balanced, but i haven't had a chance to get it in there yet.