Surprise!!! Axle Build. 8.8/D30 4.10
#76
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Location: Longview, TX
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I am about to wrap up my swap too and I wondered what others are doing about the shock situation. I had about the same amount of up travel, but decided to go through the floor with my shocks and make an upper mounting location inside the cargo area.
It also seems like everybody handles the e-brake in the same manner as well.
You are definitely learning your way around that axle. I hope the front goes a little more smoothly for you, you deserve a break.
It also seems like everybody handles the e-brake in the same manner as well.
You are definitely learning your way around that axle. I hope the front goes a little more smoothly for you, you deserve a break.
#77
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Location: Grand Junction, CO
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
DONE!!!!!!!!!!!! !! !!!!!!!
The brake lines I got from Napa and bent into place myself sucked! They leaked at every connection nut. And it's not because they were loose or anything like that, damn near stripped all of them trying to get just a little tighter to stop the hemorrhaging. In the end I said screw it and pulled the lines off my 8.25 and everything hooked up nice and tight with no leaks.
So, what about the test drive? A few clunks and clanks as everything settled in to place. I didn't bottom out on the deep rain gutters, which is good. The thing I noticed is that the Jeep wasn't so much...more powerful, but the shift points occurred much sooner. The 3.55 gearing would linger in a gear or stay locked in 2nd or 3rd, where now it is able to move up to 3rd or 4th and maintain those gears. That's exactly what I wanted, I know I was burning a lot of fuel staying at the higher RPM's.
The drive to work tomorrow will be the definitive test. After that, I will take her out on the Interstate and see if the axle plays well at higher speeds.
The brake lines I got from Napa and bent into place myself sucked! They leaked at every connection nut. And it's not because they were loose or anything like that, damn near stripped all of them trying to get just a little tighter to stop the hemorrhaging. In the end I said screw it and pulled the lines off my 8.25 and everything hooked up nice and tight with no leaks.
So, what about the test drive? A few clunks and clanks as everything settled in to place. I didn't bottom out on the deep rain gutters, which is good. The thing I noticed is that the Jeep wasn't so much...more powerful, but the shift points occurred much sooner. The 3.55 gearing would linger in a gear or stay locked in 2nd or 3rd, where now it is able to move up to 3rd or 4th and maintain those gears. That's exactly what I wanted, I know I was burning a lot of fuel staying at the higher RPM's.
The drive to work tomorrow will be the definitive test. After that, I will take her out on the Interstate and see if the axle plays well at higher speeds.
#79
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
Previous - 8.25 had 3.55 gearing.
Current - 8.8 has 4.10 gearing.
Both setups had discs and a ZJ prop valve, so no noticeable difference in braking.
Current - 8.8 has 4.10 gearing.
Both setups had discs and a ZJ prop valve, so no noticeable difference in braking.
#80
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You have 4.10's in your current D30 too, right? lol
#81
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I-6
I can't remember if I had to re-bleed after the prop valve or not...
Nope, have a D30 sitting in the back yard waiting for a rebuild with 4.10's in it. I just pulled my front driveshaft until I'm ready.
Nope, have a D30 sitting in the back yard waiting for a rebuild with 4.10's in it. I just pulled my front driveshaft until I'm ready.
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BluJay
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