The problem is that you need some sort of control system for those. I'm unaware of a "universal" system for adjusting a variable pitch turbo. Not to mention those solenoids and entire turbo's are replaced often due to problems. Just take a look at some Oasis reports from Ford.



A turbo will definitely influence where the power band is on your engine, maybe not as much as a blower, but things change no doubt. I wouldn't trust the reliability of those Ebay turbo's. for one, few of them come with ANY compressor data and if they do its just b/c they borrowed it from the turbo they're copying. Another thing to consider is the physical size/inlet outlet connections, and exhaust connections. You really want to fabricate all of that just to find out the cheap turbo you bought is...well cheap?

 

Your view is correct however lacking some info. Im not sure what you mean by ruining the natural power band? Turbos only keep the natural power band if the take time to spool up and have no boost at the low end. There's nothin natural about gain 100hp in 1000 rpm.

Blowers do use a lil power from the engine but make up for it with boost. If you have a PD blower they make full boost soon as the throttle is down and you have near peak torque off the line.

Centrifugal blowers make boost proportional to RPM so 3k rpm you have a few PSI to add some power and it just builds from there.

 

Maybe we’re thinking of two different things, but the variable nozzle turbos I’ve seen use a standard vacuum/boost diaphragm for boost control just like a wastegated turbo. A good friend of mine is an application engineer at Honeywell and helped me set one of these up several years ago. Drove well on the street but had flow limitations much lower than standard turbos so the engine was limited to approximately 240 hp.

Anyway. Compressor sizing is tricky, I’d suggest the OP have an application engineer do it or find someone else that has a reliable setup and ask for their advice. Rick Head at Exile Turbo can help, he’s a great source of info.

http://www.exileturbo.com/products/index.asp

 

yeah we are, I have never heard of what you're describing.

Another great place for some turbo sizing formula's is Garrett's Website. They have formulas listed which relate compressor output and P/R to engine displacement. That's the sure fire way to get the numbers you want.

 

Thousands of dollars in the engine and $20 in an air filter. Haha.

 

not to mention that nasty charge piping...

 

To the guy that stated that crank driven blowers rob power, you are correct, but, maybe you do not realize an exhaust driven turbine also make you loose horsepower. To create boost it has to restrict exhaust flow therefore decreasing total horsepower gain. If you are worried though about either one of the causing drain of horsepower, you may need some nitrous.

 

So SICK! NOS! OR.... since I don't condone nitrous for anything why not set your boosted XJ to run off C16+; its an oxygenated fuel that should make up for the loss in question.

OR....stop worrying about that...

 

Lol, what's your problem with nitrous?

 

Nothing really, I think it has its place; like drag racing. It's expensive to refill and doesn't last very long; depending on the shot/bottle size I guess. I've just enjoyed FI and the notion that its always there for delivery.

 

Yeah I agree. Boost never runs out!

 

Mine doesn't seem to but I keep trying; at the expense of my tires, lol.

 

lol

 

dont see why someone would use a blower.. i mean when you run something off the crank you lose (original) horsepower.. not to mention blowers ruin your engines natural power band and give it an almost perfectly linear one since it builds boost with rpm


You want a nice flat powerband. Engine is way more useful off road then something that makes peak power at 5000+ rpm.

Here's what powers my DD

So it takes power to make power. So what. At the wheels it's 200hp. At the crank it's 240hp. Now with the lower compression ratio if I was to remove that blower that motor will only make about 180 at the crank and roughly 140 at the wheels.

It's nice having a good chunk of torque off idle.

Plus on the highway that little supercharged 3.8L knocks down 34mpg. Not to shabby for a 3700 pound sedan eh?

 

never said i would either.. just that you can.. master power makes a good entry turbo for relatively cheap.. and just about anything is cheap compared to a blower. i mean.. i bought two turbonetics t60s for less than what my procharger cost...

i've been running trubos and SC's for a while now.. and the loss is less with the extra back pressure than the loss from the crank. i used to run a procharger on my camaro and i see a continuous (after spool)15psi and more power and when dyno'd i retain mostly the original power band (outside of the spike) with my turbos than my SC. the SC robbed quite abit of power from my 350, right now the only thing running off of my crank is my alt. no ac, no power steering, and an electric pump..


im not worried about it, just sayin.. and at 80$ for 5 gallons.. not happenin.. all he's saying use the nitrous for is to spool the turbos so there is no lag.

this aint my first rodeo guys...... my main point is you'll be happier over all, and so will your wallet...