Steering help
#1
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Steering help
I need to replace my ball joints and tie rods on my xj, with that i was wanting to know what ball joints everyone uses or recommends for medium wheeling. Also im trying to decide weather to go with the RT Off-Road Heavy Duty Steering Kit or the 1 ton utk JCR kit so need help deciding which one to go with and whats best for highway driving and being a weekend rock/mud warrior. (96 jeep xj classic 4.0 6.5 inch rc lift 35x12.5r15 automatic)
#3
For a good low cost solution
I have a Moog Problem Solver ZJ tie-rod and ball-joints on my XJ. Works very well and was affordably-priced. You can buy one at RockAuto for next to nothing. Many local tire stores have them for a reasonable price and will install it for you. Make sure you get ZJ ball-joints for it. They are a little bit larger than XJ ball joints.
I have a write-up with a parts list over at jeepforum. If you'd like a link to it let me know.
I have a write-up with a parts list over at jeepforum. If you'd like a link to it let me know.
Last edited by Charley3; 02-24-2017 at 03:26 AM.
#4
XJ tie rods have hollow thin-wall tubing and are weak.
ZJ tierods are solid steel and strong. They are same stock diameter as XJ tie-rod. So ZJ tie-rod has strength and good clearance between tie-rod, draglink, and steering stabilizer when suspension compresses (with a low-lift with stock(ish) bumpstops).
ZJ tierods are solid steel and strong. They are same stock diameter as XJ tie-rod. So ZJ tie-rod has strength and good clearance between tie-rod, draglink, and steering stabilizer when suspension compresses (with a low-lift with stock(ish) bumpstops).
All good aftermarket tie-rods are solid steel and strong. Some are stock diameter which is good for proper clearance between tie-rod, drag-link, and steering stabilizer when suspension compresses with a low-lift with stock(ish) bumpstops).
Super heavy duty aftermarket tie-rods are solid steel and larger diameter than stock. This can cause clearance problems between tie-rod, drag-link, and steering stabilizer when suspension compresses (with a low-lift with stock(ish) bumpstops).
So if you buy an aftermarket tie-rod, I suggest you get a solid steel one that is stock diameter so you don't have to worry about clearance problems. You don't need a larger-diameter tie-rod until your tires are really big like 35+ or more likely 37+.
All you need for strength (for reasonably large tires) is a solid steel stock diameter tie-rod. It's strong enough and gives good clearance.
If you choose to get a larger-than-stock-diameter tire-rod... then you'll need at least 2" bump-stop extension. That means you'll need at least 3" lift or more (ideally 4+") with 2" bumpstop extension if you want to use the stock steering setup.
Another way to use a larger-than-stock-diameter tire-rod used to change the type of steering you have as someone else posted.
However I don't see any reason to go to all that trouble. Just use a stock diameter solid steel tie-rod like a ZJ tie-rod (OEM or Moog Problem Solver), or an aftermarket tie-rod that is stock diameter and solid steel. Stock diameter solid steel tie rods are plenty strong enough for medium wheeling.
My ideal tie-rod would be a solid steel stock diameter aftermarket tie-rod that is straight. The ZJ stock OEM tie-rod and the ZJ Moog tie-rod are curved (less ground clearance). That's the only thing I don't like about them. I have seen one or two aftermarket tie-rods that are solid steel, stock diameter, and straight (more ground clearance). One of those would be most ideal. Sorry I don't remember any aftermarket brand names.
Super heavy duty aftermarket tie-rods are solid steel and larger diameter than stock. This can cause clearance problems between tie-rod, drag-link, and steering stabilizer when suspension compresses (with a low-lift with stock(ish) bumpstops).
So if you buy an aftermarket tie-rod, I suggest you get a solid steel one that is stock diameter so you don't have to worry about clearance problems. You don't need a larger-diameter tie-rod until your tires are really big like 35+ or more likely 37+.
All you need for strength (for reasonably large tires) is a solid steel stock diameter tie-rod. It's strong enough and gives good clearance.
If you choose to get a larger-than-stock-diameter tire-rod... then you'll need at least 2" bump-stop extension. That means you'll need at least 3" lift or more (ideally 4+") with 2" bumpstop extension if you want to use the stock steering setup.
Another way to use a larger-than-stock-diameter tire-rod used to change the type of steering you have as someone else posted.
However I don't see any reason to go to all that trouble. Just use a stock diameter solid steel tie-rod like a ZJ tie-rod (OEM or Moog Problem Solver), or an aftermarket tie-rod that is stock diameter and solid steel. Stock diameter solid steel tie rods are plenty strong enough for medium wheeling.
My ideal tie-rod would be a solid steel stock diameter aftermarket tie-rod that is straight. The ZJ stock OEM tie-rod and the ZJ Moog tie-rod are curved (less ground clearance). That's the only thing I don't like about them. I have seen one or two aftermarket tie-rods that are solid steel, stock diameter, and straight (more ground clearance). One of those would be most ideal. Sorry I don't remember any aftermarket brand names.
Last edited by Charley3; 02-24-2017 at 03:33 AM.
#5
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I went with Spicer OEM ball joints. Only others I would run are Alloy USA. Put the ball joints in the freezer and heat the knuckle before you press them in and they should go in very easy. Use anti size as well.
Might as well do new axle u joints if yours are worn, possibly front wheel bearings (I did all at the same time)
For Steering, go with ZJ steering or OTK (serious offroad gets good reviews, same with Ruff Stuff, and CavFab). If you are spending the money, spend the extra hour it takes to ream the knuckles and pitman arm and what not
Good double shear trackball after that like Iron Rock Offroad, Clayton Offroad, or the HD Rubicon Express are all good.
Might as well do new axle u joints if yours are worn, possibly front wheel bearings (I did all at the same time)
For Steering, go with ZJ steering or OTK (serious offroad gets good reviews, same with Ruff Stuff, and CavFab). If you are spending the money, spend the extra hour it takes to ream the knuckles and pitman arm and what not
Good double shear trackball after that like Iron Rock Offroad, Clayton Offroad, or the HD Rubicon Express are all good.
#6
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The additional work for OTK steering is far more than just reaming the top of the knuckle. You then also need a new axle side track bar mount to change the angle to the same as the drag link. Then you run into clearance issues with the sway bar brackets on the axle.
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I have a Moog Problem Solver ZJ tie-rod and ball-joints on my XJ. Works very well and was affordably-priced. You can buy one at RockAuto for next to nothing. Many local tire stores have them for a reasonable price and will install it for you. Make sure you get ZJ ball-joints for it. They are a little bit larger than XJ ball joints.
I have a write-up with a parts list over at jeepforum. If you'd like a link to it let me know.
I have a write-up with a parts list over at jeepforum. If you'd like a link to it let me know.
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#9
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Year: 1999
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I bought all of mine at AutoZone V-8 ZJ TRE's and ball joints they were Moog also look inside the box.....But I only run a 4" lift and 35" tires, the steering box need to be reinforced as well brace and frame.
Last edited by Fred/N0AZZ; 02-24-2017 at 09:59 AM.
#10
The ZJ tie rod is a good upgrade if your rig is only used for light offroading. Installed the Ares Fab OTK one ton steering this weekend and it is a significant upgrade as compared to the ZJ tie rod. Building my rig to run Fordyce and the Rubicon so my steering needs may be different from yours.
I exclusively used Spicer ball joints. They survive well under harsh conditions.
I exclusively used Spicer ball joints. They survive well under harsh conditions.