2001x

So i think by looking at my setup i think i need a stock pitman arm in order to have them parallel. This is the drop pitman arm that was on it when i bought the jeep. I am running a short arm 6.5" lift.

andrewmp6

The lower link looks bent up to me,I would look in to upgrading the steering linkage.Currie is the only kit i know that says bolt on.The rest you need to ream out your pitman arm and knuckles to use the bigger tie rod ends.If you can't do it most off road shops can do it for you no problem.

2001x

The drag link and tie rod are brand new. Its the crown kit.

XJlimitedx99

A stock pitman are would help get them more parallel. At 6.5" the stock steering really isn't enough. An OTK kit is in order.

Cheddarnut

That's a shame, it would have been an excellent time to go aftermarket and correct the angles.

http://www.rustysoffroad.com/jeep-st...onversion.html

http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...ath=1231_2092&

outkast

Nothing wrong with that Crown kit, it uses a ZJ tierod. That's 1" solid stock, just as strong as that Rusty's setup.

XJlimitedx99

Difference being is that the factory has an inverted y setup and most aftermarket kits are inverted t.

With inverted y the toe changes as the suspension cycles up and down. Not much of an issue at low lift but the higher you go the more it changes. With inverted t the tie rod connects the two wheels directly so the toe doesn't change.

Also, when you stay under the knuckle at 6" of lift the tre's are just about maxed out sitting at ride hight. Not much room for those to flex and you will go through tre's quick.

2001x

The only reason i went with crown was working on a budget. Id like to change a few other things just not able to at the moment. I figured my angles were no good feels like i have bad bump steer. After replacing a ton of stuff to cure my death wobble i thought everything was good. Come to find out not so. Lol

Cheddarnut

Fair point, I edited comment on beefing up. I'm not knocking crown, just saying an aftermarket kit would have allowed correction of the steering angles and created a better steering system. Any of a half dozen brands could have done it for around three hundred ish bucks( not pimping rustys).

cdn_xj

Your track bar/dranglink angles are not bad. a bit off, but not a whole lot. Stock arm would appear to help some.

Keep in mind that when it comes to suspension.steering geometry, it's the end points of the links/arms that are important. the actual shape of the bar/link is irrelevant in determining the angles.

exjay1027

youd be better off dropping your track bar down a bit rather than raising the drag link

cdn_xj

Except for the fact that dropping the frame side track bar mount increases roll center and contributes to body roll. Additionally a dropped pitman arm adds leverage to the steering box in a different plane than would have been anticipated for initially.

Ideally you would keep the stock pitman arm and track bar frame-side mount and match the draglink angle by raising the axle-side trackbar mount.

2001x

Im still unsure what i need to do. Before replacing stuff my setup was stock steering kit and a rc track bar with the balljoint end. I switched to a re trac bar with the new drop bracket and crown steering kit. I honostly dont know if anything was correct before i even changed stuff.

cdn_xj

With what you have right now, the easiest/cheapest improvement would be to lose the dropped pitman arm and use a stock one.

Your setup is not too different from mine:
a hair under 6" of lift, RE short arms with drop brackets, OEM draglink, ZJ tie-rod. I have a Kevin's Offroad trackbar which is dropped on the frame side and my drag link and track bar are not perfectly parallel but damn close.

Under VERY hard braking I have to countersteer but I don't experience bumpsteer when going over bumps.

If you are so inclined and have the fab skills and/or the money, pitch the OEM steering and go to a proper over the knuckle system