steering angles
#2
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: duncan b.c
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L h/o
not bad , a little steep but hey its a jeep. as long as the trac bar and drag link r as parrallel to each other as possible (for minimal bump steer ) ur goood , also if yah got lots of flex , make sure ur pitmanarm to upper drag link tierod has enough movement so u dont bind it up and tear the pour box off the frame ( tin can )
#5
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: duncan b.c
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L h/o
IRO is definitly beeeeef cake. if u go over the knuckle u'll probly have to make a over the axle lower trac bar mount . to make it all line up . just flex ur truck out to the limit with ur drag link disconnected and if ur axle surpasses the steering then worrie about it , if not rock it till she caves.. im amazed how long my oem steering lasted hahah . i upgraded to a narrowed 78 ford 1 ton crossover sleeved with tube
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i thought it was a straight bolt on steering upgrade atleast thats what it says...and i havent been able to unhook my discos and flex bc the draglink wants to hit the steering stabilizer i barely clear it now
#7
CF Veteran
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Salt Lake City, UT
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
it is derect bolt on. it will bolt on without modifications. however depending on your setup the angles might be different then another and to keep them both at the same angle you "may" need to change the mount. but shouldnt have to.
let me save you the time and money of the OTK steering. the inverted T steering has a dead spot, and feels loose. you should track down a ZJ(cant remember the years) pass side steering knuckle and do cross over steering. it will be better then any other setup. but this is only worth it if you plan on keeping the D30.... example....
let me save you the time and money of the OTK steering. the inverted T steering has a dead spot, and feels loose. you should track down a ZJ(cant remember the years) pass side steering knuckle and do cross over steering. it will be better then any other setup. but this is only worth it if you plan on keeping the D30.... example....
Last edited by Gorillaxj; 07-22-2011 at 12:13 AM.
Trending Topics
#8
it is derect bolt on. it will bolt on without modifications. however depending on your setup the angles might be different then another and to keep them both at the same angle you "may" need to change the mount. but shouldnt have to.
let me save you the time and money of the OTK steering. the inverted T steering has a dead spot, and feels loose. you should track down a ZJ(cant remember the years) pass side steering knuckle and do cross over steering. it will be better then any other setup. but this is only worth it if you plan on keeping the D30.... example....
let me save you the time and money of the OTK steering. the inverted T steering has a dead spot, and feels loose. you should track down a ZJ(cant remember the years) pass side steering knuckle and do cross over steering. it will be better then any other setup. but this is only worth it if you plan on keeping the D30.... example....
ZJ's here never equipped with knuckle you pictured. That is a WJ knuckle.
The conversion to WJ knuckles is not cheap.
Spacer are need and they must be welded to both knuckles, preferably TIG welded. WJ knuckles are thinner and will not work without it.
Depending on the caliper, rotor combination used there can be an increase in braking peformance. There can also be a risk of spending lots of coin to replace warped rotors.
For the brakes to work properly the existing proportioning valve must be modified or replaced with a valve from a WJ. Older XJ's should also be upgrade to a dual diaphragm booster for improved braking as well.
A properly done WJ Conversion will cost a helluvalot more than just grabbing knuckles at a bone yard. Figure $600-800 to do it right.
Been there, done that.
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
the serious set up looks good as does the IRO i want something durable and no dead spots all bolt on if i could. im sure that my extra couple of inches of lift might play a part in some of the setup but ive also got a hum from 41-50mph that im trying to get rid of.i thought it might be the steering,tires,ring and pinion or front driveshaft but im not sure was just gonna replace one at a time and see if it fixes anything..also my jeep gets pulled around on some roads that are crowned and on the highway a little..i want it to ride like a cadillac as some other here put it.
#10
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ive got a buddy that usually helps with some of the issues though he doesnt know a lot about jeeps but has lifted s10 blazers dodge and a numerous amount of other vehicles he hasnt had time to help...if my long arms are set up for the 6.5 lift could i get a vibe from that? grimmus said if i put two more turns on the adjustment it should get me perfect on that note.
#12
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: duncan b.c
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L h/o
vibes and hums dont really come from steering . its usually clunks and what not. but if yah want to beef it by all means go right ahead . u should look at bearings, tires, driveline. pinion angles , gears . and ur jeep probably swayz back and forth in ruts on the highway becuase of ur caster angle, wich is probably out to lunch because the axle is rolled so far forward to make up for the driveshaft and pinion angle .... wich in the end is probably throughing
#13
Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: duncan b.c
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L h/o
your steering way out ...... em i getting close ?
cuz at 8 some inches , u gotta basicly choose betwwen a crappy pinoin angle . or way to negative caster .
cuz at 8 some inches , u gotta basicly choose betwwen a crappy pinoin angle . or way to negative caster .
Last edited by xj101; 07-22-2011 at 09:45 PM.
#14
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Michigan
Posts: 185
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I can take a couple pics and put then up but I'll be honest for the most part I know very little about the driveline angles and what they are supposed to be..I have a reputable shop do my alignment after the lift and they said everything looked good but I don't know how much they actually looked into..my buddy seems to think it's the tires or ring and pinion. And it has brand new wheel bearings and axle joints less that 500 miles ago I did