some axles worth it or not?
#1
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4L Renix
some axles worth it or not?
I really want to ton my jeep. But i found a j10 some ones giving away with a front and rear d44. I like to snow wheel and i probly wont go over 35-38 inch tires. I am not hard on my rig it just digs you into the snow and possibly break stuf. So would it be worth dragging this j10 home and taking what i want from it? Over paying 500-800 for some ton axles ? This is so tempting.
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I really want to ton my jeep. But i found a j10 some ones giving away with a front and rear d44. I like to snow wheel and i probly wont go over 35-38 inch tires. I am not hard on my rig it just digs you into the snow and possibly break stuf. So would it be worth dragging this j10 home and taking what i want from it? Over paying 500-800 for some ton axles ? This is so tempting.
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Year: 97
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Engine: 4.0L
Look at the axles they could be passenger side drop and the rear may be offset as well depending on year. Most J trucks were somewhere between stock and full width. IRRC 63-64" WMS to WMS.
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Year: 1989
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Full witdth axles would be nice too. Just out a set in another guys rig but it was a 44/60 combo
Last edited by Oxen__; 07-02-2012 at 03:31 PM.
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If they are the right side drop and rear is centered they would hold 37s OK, wouldn't like them but would hold them if you aren't crazy on them. Front will be low pinion. Worst case you get them and sell them to someone with a Chevy or CJ and make a couple hundred bucks.
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#8
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Year: 1989
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I was trying to figure out what t case it nite have but havent found a certain answer yet.
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Year: 2000
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Why is it? Invest money and time to only be able to run a couple inch taller tire over the 35s that his stock setup is handling. i mean cmon. If he has even thought about 38s he should just do ton axles and be done with it. Once you get into that big of a tire then its 40s next
Awww did i hurt your waggy 44 feelings. No right or wrong with opinions
Awww did i hurt your waggy 44 feelings. No right or wrong with opinions
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I want to but im not going to bother with it. Any other truck than my jeep i want a older f250 disel 2wd to slam on air bags make it a flat bed rig hauler. V8 turbo cranks out ok power. Choice would be the dodge TDI. But thats a spendy truck ...... some day ...... some day..........
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I have to agree with MuscleHead, the 44 isn't much of an upgrade. The gears are a little stronger but not much (LP vs 30HP) and the u-joints and axle shafts aren't that much larger than a 30HP. You do get rid of the wheel hubs which is one of the main advantages of it.
In my honest opinion...If you're putting that much work into fitting a 44LP in the front, you might as well go a 60HP. There isn't much of a different between a 30HP and 44LP but there is a huge difference between any 44 and 60HP.
Careful on the 60 rear also if you're looking for a different one. 60's really aren't all that strong since most are small bore and it costs way too much to really make a 60 handle any abuse in the rear. You're better off going a 14 bolt or Sterling. The Sterling has much better ground clearance than a 14 bolt and has a factory cast in truss on the pumpkin but there is more aftermarket support for the 14 bolt and it has the 3rd pinion bearing. Both you can get dirt cheap (I find Sterling 10.25's all day for $150-200 around here).
Either axle setup you go, keep in mind that the price does rise quickly. Metal/brackets, possibly custom arms, new brakes, and any other thing that needs to be replaced is all $$$. I got lucky on my set and have less than $1000 into both axles with rebuilding what needed to be and all the brackets and brakes.
In my honest opinion...If you're putting that much work into fitting a 44LP in the front, you might as well go a 60HP. There isn't much of a different between a 30HP and 44LP but there is a huge difference between any 44 and 60HP.
Careful on the 60 rear also if you're looking for a different one. 60's really aren't all that strong since most are small bore and it costs way too much to really make a 60 handle any abuse in the rear. You're better off going a 14 bolt or Sterling. The Sterling has much better ground clearance than a 14 bolt and has a factory cast in truss on the pumpkin but there is more aftermarket support for the 14 bolt and it has the 3rd pinion bearing. Both you can get dirt cheap (I find Sterling 10.25's all day for $150-200 around here).
Either axle setup you go, keep in mind that the price does rise quickly. Metal/brackets, possibly custom arms, new brakes, and any other thing that needs to be replaced is all $$$. I got lucky on my set and have less than $1000 into both axles with rebuilding what needed to be and all the brackets and brakes.
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Year: 1988
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i wouldn't use that term to describe the dodge diesels. while technically the Cummins is a turbocharged direct injection engine (TDI) the term TDI refers to the VW line of diesel engines. for future reference, people usually call them CTD (Cummins Turbo Diesel) or just a Dodge Cummins.
/hijack]