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So today this happened

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Old 07-29-2013, 04:43 PM
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Default So today this happened

So I was playing round yesterday and heard what a missing shock busing sounds like shock busing missing couldn't find the noise so today I hit some trails and the lower left axle shock mout was on the LCa and then when we went to limp it home 50+ miles the ignition quit working I tried to bump start it but we couldn't get it to move the area we were in made that hard. So I jumped the starter and got it going. So my question is should I just wire in a starter button and have the mount fixed so should I sell it and get another. It's an 88 with a d30/35 and a ba10/5 the throw out Bering is going bad and the tps sucks and wiring harnesses need to be rebuilt to get a good sensor ground. Am I money ahead finding a 92+ 2 door 5 speed to replace it with ?
Old 07-29-2013, 05:31 PM
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pics please
Old 07-29-2013, 06:20 PM
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Of the jeep or the shock ? Name:  null-24.jpg
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Size:  130.0 KB here the jeep Name:  null-28.jpg
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Size:  72.2 KB busted mount
Old 07-29-2013, 06:22 PM
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get some shockcks with through bolt style and weld you up a new setup...
Old 07-29-2013, 06:35 PM
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Through bolts ? I Dont Know if I want to fix it or sell it is my issue I have so many other lil issues with it. Mostly a tps issue that I can't fix. My harness has 2 ohms in it and cruiser says I need less than one and I can't find any more splices
Old 07-29-2013, 06:40 PM
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I can try to help you through the running prob. A through bolt is a style with a regular bushing w a metal sleeve in it you just put a bolt through it, I know you've seen the bar pin eliminators, that's what they are for then on the front you get the pin style elimintaor for the top and run a regular shock.
Old 07-29-2013, 06:41 PM
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like this http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f2...a/cc9d5ce7.jpg
Old 07-29-2013, 06:44 PM
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Ok I know what you mean. And ya the running issue is kicking my ***! I've done all the splices and it won't drop my ohms I unplug a flat 6 wire connector In the right front fender well under the battery and it drops to where I need it. But with it disconnected it won't start. I think it may be the injector harness connector but I can't find that info anywhere my Haynes manual is **** and so is my wiring diagrams from Mitchell on demand for the wiring
Old 07-29-2013, 06:52 PM
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I would not use ohms it can be miss leading, a voltage drop on a circuit is more accurate
Old 07-29-2013, 06:55 PM
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I was just going off of what cruiser said to do to adjust the tps sensor
Old 07-29-2013, 07:42 PM
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You use a volt meter to adjust TPS not ohms...?
Old 07-29-2013, 08:42 PM
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Ya I know that but as per cruiser he said I have to check my sensor ground prior and clean my tb first
Old 07-29-2013, 11:57 PM
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Grounds refreshing? The battery cable runs up to the dipstick stud, then grounds to the rest of the body through the ground strap. Not the greatest idea
Old 07-30-2013, 12:51 AM
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I have almost all of cruisers renix tips done but it's the sensor ground test I can't pass and he says it needs to be in spec to be able to adjust the throttle body and tps in that order I have a guy on a gun forum that is helping me to get the shock mount fixed! �� Now to find and wire in a push button start so I don't have to ghetto start it
Old 07-30-2013, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Kris smith
I was just going off of what cruiser said to do to adjust the tps sensor
OK. You're doing this, right? And you've already done the C101?



Cruiser’s Renix Sensor Ground Test
 
This sensor ground circuit affects the CTS, TPS, IAT, MAP, ECU and diagnostic connector grounds. It’s very important and not something to overlook in diagnosing your Renix Jeep as it is common for the harnesses to have poor crimps causing poor grounds. If any or all of the sensors do not have a good ground, the signal the ECU receives from these sensors is inaccurate.
Set your meter to measure Ohms. Be sure the key is in the OFF position. Using the positive (red) lead of your ohmmeter, probe the B terminal of the flat 3 wire connector of the TPS . The letters are embossed on the connector itself.
Touch the black lead of your meter to the negative battery post. Wiggle the wiring harness where it runs parallel to the valve cover and also near the MAP sensor mounted on the firewall. If you have an 87 or 88 with the C101 connector mounted on the firewall above the brake booster, wiggle it, too.
You want to see as close to 0 ohms of resistance as possible. And when wiggling the harnesses/connectors the resistance value should stay low. If there is a variance in the values when wiggling the wires, you have a poor crimp/connection in the wiring harness or a poor ground at the engine dipstick tube stud. On 87 and 88 models, you could have a poor connection at the C101 connector as well.
Revised 06/12/2012


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