Shopping For An 8.25 Rear End, Any "Best" Choice?
#16
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
it all depends on your fab skills and how much money you want to put into this.
for example i don't trust myself with welding, and there were no explorers with the right gear ratio that had disc brakes at my local junkyard, so I bought a '97 LSD 8.25 instead. was half off day so it set me back a big 60$. bought the necessary kit to swap Liberty KJ disc brakes, and for about 250-300$ I have a "new" axle waiting to be swapped under the jeep.
but if you can weld and you can find a 8.8 that fits your needs, since disc brakes are already an option you'll only have to spend money on the perches kit and you'll have a beefier axle in the end.
So like it was said, late 96 and up chrysler 8.25 is what you want for the stronger shafts.
for example i don't trust myself with welding, and there were no explorers with the right gear ratio that had disc brakes at my local junkyard, so I bought a '97 LSD 8.25 instead. was half off day so it set me back a big 60$. bought the necessary kit to swap Liberty KJ disc brakes, and for about 250-300$ I have a "new" axle waiting to be swapped under the jeep.
but if you can weld and you can find a 8.8 that fits your needs, since disc brakes are already an option you'll only have to spend money on the perches kit and you'll have a beefier axle in the end.
So like it was said, late 96 and up chrysler 8.25 is what you want for the stronger shafts.
#17
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Here's a good basic kit for the 8.8 swap under an XJ.
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/prod...-swap-kit.html
As folks above have mentioned, junkyards are full of Ford Explorers and Mercury Mountaineers with the Ford 8.8 axle. The 8.8 references the diameter in inches of the ring gear. Your Chrysler 8.25 has an 8.25" ring gear, the Ford 8.8 has a...well, you guessed it, 8.8" ring gear. Unless you are shock loading the tires on rough rock crawling or jumping, the size of the ring gear is less important when compared to the axle shaft splines and shaft diameter. More splines = more surface area for load to be shared across, and larger diameter shafts means higher torque rating. The earlier Chrysler 8.25's have 27 spline 1.17" diameter shafts, used up until '96. The later Chrysler 8.25's have 29 spline 1.21" diameter shafts, used until '01. The Ford 8.8 has 31 spline 1.32" diameter shafts, so you can see the appeal here when combined with disc brakes, good selection of ring and pinion ratios, and has the same 5x4.5" bolt pattern and "close enough" axle width to the stock XJ rear end.
Another option, though harder to find, is the XJ Dana 44. Only offered in years 1987-1989 if my memory serves. These were 30 spline, 1.31" diameter shafts with an 8.5" ring gear. Drums, of course.
You mentioned re-gearing while you are swapping axles...what are the details of your '89, and what do you intend to do with it?
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/prod...-swap-kit.html
As folks above have mentioned, junkyards are full of Ford Explorers and Mercury Mountaineers with the Ford 8.8 axle. The 8.8 references the diameter in inches of the ring gear. Your Chrysler 8.25 has an 8.25" ring gear, the Ford 8.8 has a...well, you guessed it, 8.8" ring gear. Unless you are shock loading the tires on rough rock crawling or jumping, the size of the ring gear is less important when compared to the axle shaft splines and shaft diameter. More splines = more surface area for load to be shared across, and larger diameter shafts means higher torque rating. The earlier Chrysler 8.25's have 27 spline 1.17" diameter shafts, used up until '96. The later Chrysler 8.25's have 29 spline 1.21" diameter shafts, used until '01. The Ford 8.8 has 31 spline 1.32" diameter shafts, so you can see the appeal here when combined with disc brakes, good selection of ring and pinion ratios, and has the same 5x4.5" bolt pattern and "close enough" axle width to the stock XJ rear end.
Another option, though harder to find, is the XJ Dana 44. Only offered in years 1987-1989 if my memory serves. These were 30 spline, 1.31" diameter shafts with an 8.5" ring gear. Drums, of course.
You mentioned re-gearing while you are swapping axles...what are the details of your '89, and what do you intend to do with it?
I'm setting this XJ up for more expedition/remote routefinding/camping rather than rock crawling. I want larger diameter tires to increase ground clearance, but I don't want to sacrifice fuel economy or tourque, so that's why I'd like to regear. Also will put in a front e-locker and a rear Detroit Truetrack LSD. All of this to consider with the rear end swap.
#18
Great info. I think the 8.8 swap might be the direction I go. Benfit being disc brakes already on it.
I'm setting this XJ up for more expedition/remote routefinding/camping rather than rock crawling. I want larger diameter tires to increase ground clearance, but I don't want to sacrifice fuel economy or tourque, so that's why I'd like to regear. Also will put in a front e-locker and a rear Detroit Truetrack LSD. All of this to consider with the rear end swap.
I'm setting this XJ up for more expedition/remote routefinding/camping rather than rock crawling. I want larger diameter tires to increase ground clearance, but I don't want to sacrifice fuel economy or tourque, so that's why I'd like to regear. Also will put in a front e-locker and a rear Detroit Truetrack LSD. All of this to consider with the rear end swap.
Car-part.com is a good website for searching for this 8.8. I'd start by entering '97 Ford Explorer, search for the rear axle assembly, then narrow your search for 4.10 axles. When you get to the junk yard, make sure you get the drive shaft flange that bolts to the pinion yoke. You will also need 4 bolts, see part number in attached image.
#19
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Discs and 8.8 belong to '96 and newer Ford's, up until they went to independent rear suspension in '02 or something like that. When you are axle hunting, there might be a tag on the diff cover that says "3L73 8 8" or 3 55 8 8" or "4 10 8 8". The first set of numbers means 3.73, or 3.55, or 4.10, in my examples. In the first example where it says "3L73 8 8" means 3.73 gears, 8.8 ring gear, and the L stands for limited slip rear end. No "L" means it's an open diff. If you are planning to put in a new limited slip or locker, then it doesn't matter if the diff has it's own limited slip or not. The limited slip in the Ford 8.8 is the "Trac-Lok" clutch type limited slip, meaning it uses clutches to apply pressure to the wheel that's about to slip in order for it to not slip a little longer. Ultimately, if you're crawling over a stump or backing up over a large rock, it'll likely slip, unless you rebuild the unit. The clutch packs don't really last much longer than 50k miles. If it were me, I'd go for any Ford 8.8 with the gear ratio you intend, then swap in any gear style limited slip or selectable locker. Since you mentioned this is more of an expedition, remote route finding vehicle for camping, this usually means you'll be loaded down with gear and food, right? All this excess weight will move easier with 4.10 gears, so that is what I would focus on searching for in a Ford 8.8, and then re-gear your front axle to match. Again, personally in your case, I would leave the front axle open, and put that money towards a good winch bumper and 9000lb winch. That way you can move trees, climb up soft or slippery inclines, and rescue friends rather than have all 4 wheels turning.
Car-part.com is a good website for searching for this 8.8. I'd start by entering '97 Ford Explorer, search for the rear axle assembly, then narrow your search for 4.10 axles. When you get to the junk yard, make sure you get the drive shaft flange that bolts to the pinion yoke. You will also need 4 bolts, see part number in attached image.
Car-part.com is a good website for searching for this 8.8. I'd start by entering '97 Ford Explorer, search for the rear axle assembly, then narrow your search for 4.10 axles. When you get to the junk yard, make sure you get the drive shaft flange that bolts to the pinion yoke. You will also need 4 bolts, see part number in attached image.
Will I need to install a different proportioning valve for the brakes to work correctly with the 8.8 discs? Does the shock perch mod require a different length shock?
BTW, I already have a front winch bumper and am in the middle of a Warn winch install, so I have that covered. I'm getting this rig dialed in pretty well. Bumpers, suspension and rooftop cargo management completed. After these drivetrain upgrades and a rear cargo storage platform build, the selectable front locker will be one of the last planned mods.
#20
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Year: '98
Engine: 4.0 I6
My 8.8 swap was more involved than an 8.25 swap, and thus cost more money. Used the Iron Rock bracket kit IIRC
But I gained disc brakes in the rear, 31 spline axles, higher shock mounts, and a limited slip which I rebuilt with carbon fiber clutches when it was geared to 4.88's
I also needed to install a SYE, because of the pinion angle.
You will want a ZJ brake proportioning valve and need a rear brake line (Ford is different than Jeep) and custom made parking brake cables. Check East Coast Gear Supply for those parts
Also will probably need a custom Driveshaft or a 1330-1310 conversion ujoint which is what I used with a WJ jeep double car dang front driveshaft.
Lots of swap guides online, just Google and you will find several step by step guides and probably a YouTube video or two
Edit:
I went with a limited slip carrier because I couldn't afford an air/e-locker and didn't want an auto locker for drivability issues (with a manual trans).
If you want a rear locker, make sure you get an open carrier
But I gained disc brakes in the rear, 31 spline axles, higher shock mounts, and a limited slip which I rebuilt with carbon fiber clutches when it was geared to 4.88's
I also needed to install a SYE, because of the pinion angle.
You will want a ZJ brake proportioning valve and need a rear brake line (Ford is different than Jeep) and custom made parking brake cables. Check East Coast Gear Supply for those parts
Also will probably need a custom Driveshaft or a 1330-1310 conversion ujoint which is what I used with a WJ jeep double car dang front driveshaft.
Lots of swap guides online, just Google and you will find several step by step guides and probably a YouTube video or two
Edit:
I went with a limited slip carrier because I couldn't afford an air/e-locker and didn't want an auto locker for drivability issues (with a manual trans).
If you want a rear locker, make sure you get an open carrier
Last edited by investinwaffles; 09-21-2017 at 08:08 AM.
#21
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You don't need custom made e brake cables. I got mine for $24 each. They are just for '96 down XJ with rear discs.
So, I guess they are kinda custom.
So, I guess they are kinda custom.
#22
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Year: 2001
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I went with the 8.8, main reasons were to get disc brakes and 4.10 gears with LS. Factoring in the savings on not having to swap gears, I went all out and rebuilt it and went ahead and trussed it as I basically got it free with one of the sales Iron Rock was having.
Don't know if it's been mentioned, but the 8.8 is also about 1-1/4" narrower if that matters to you.
Don't know if it's been mentioned, but the 8.8 is also about 1-1/4" narrower if that matters to you.
#23
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#24
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I already have an SYE installed with a Tom Woods driveshaft. Is a different length driveshaft required with the 8.8?
Last edited by ElMartillo; 09-22-2017 at 06:09 AM.
#26
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I got mine from Morris 4x4 as they were the cheapest, at the time. That was almost 2 years ago.
#27
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Thanks for all the great info here guys!
#28
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And if you do the yukon ultimate 88 it will widen the 8.8 to about the xjs stock width.The kit removes the c clips and upgraded axles and is dual lug patterns 5x4.5 and the 5x5.5.