Set up for sye or other options
03-12-2014, 08:18 PM
#1
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Set up for sye or other options
Just ordered a 4.5 rough country x-flex and want to know is there other options beside a sye? I have a 99 4.0 n231 Dana 30 hp and 8.25 plan on running 33's. Heard something like running a zj drive shaft.
03-13-2014, 10:32 AM
#4
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4L, 6 cylinder, 190 hp, 225 ft lp torque
Back when I did my first lift I ran the stock rear drive shaft for about a year with no vibs. Right after installing the lift there were vibs, did some research and found that if you shim the rear axle so the face of the diff pinion is at the same angle as the output of the transfer case you'll be ok. My Cherokee has the same t-case and axles as yours. Good luck.
03-13-2014, 10:57 AM
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Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.7 H.O.
In sitting on 4.5, did a hack and tap for $110. The Cherokee front drive shaft also works for the rear on this set up. Cost wise its the cheapest way to go. The way I did it, about an hour work, was to have a friend turn the front output shaft while I used a cut off tool to cut the rear output shaft. It makes it easier to get a straight cut. Then I got a good drill bit one side smaller than the 3/8 grade 8 bolt I planned on using. Marked the center of the rear output shaft and used a drill press to keep the hole straight. Then tap it to 3/8 and your set.
03-13-2014, 01:15 PM
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Model: Cherokee
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03-13-2014, 02:57 PM
#8
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
Yes there are other options. You can get a teralow/atlas tcase that doesn't have a slip yoke. You could also try a transfer case drop kit though it is far from preferable. Other than that, you have the SYE option. SYE is your best bet. Drop kit and shims MIGHT fix the vibrations but it is still a slip yoke meaning it can still just slip out.. It does happen... Just Google "my driveshaft fell out." Driveshaft usually causes a huge mess underneath if you are moving when it happens.
Last edited by Ianf406; 03-13-2014 at 03:06 PM.
03-13-2014, 03:04 PM
#9
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Golen 4.6 Stroker, AFE Headers, 62mm TB, 24 LB Injectors, Brown Dog kit, HF Cat, 3" Exhaust
I used the advanced adapters kit. I broke the yoke once and they sent me a new one free. Other than that, no leaks/ no problems in 160,000 miles
03-13-2014, 03:18 PM
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6
Iron Rock HnT . Started jeep put it in reverse (231T case) used 4" grinder with cutoff wheel to cut the output shaft.
I bought the drill jig from IRO and drilled and tapped the output after I cut it.
I bought the drill jig from IRO and drilled and tapped the output after I cut it.
03-13-2014, 03:20 PM
#11
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
Just go with the SYE and Tom Woods by its side for the driveshaft.. The SYE is worth it no matter what, especially when 33's and a 4.5 lift seem to small down the road. You can get a kit with driveshaft and SYE for the 231 for round 400.. Money well spent
03-14-2014, 06:56 AM
#13
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4L, 6 cylinder, 190 hp, 225 ft lp torque
If your going to buy one, check out Adams Driveshaft and Off Road. Just another option. This is what I have on my Cherokee now, well not right now. I've just installed a new t-case and sent the rear shaft back to them for lengthening and ordered a front shaft. Good luck and have fun.
03-14-2014, 07:30 AM
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03-15-2014, 01:29 AM
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Also, with a 3" lift, what size driveshaft will be needed (C8.25)? Your link has an entire page of them (nice selection!) but I'm not sure which one is needed.
Thanks.