Ride Quality
#1
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
Ride Quality
When I bought my xj it had a 3" HD coil lift in the front and an add a leaf in the back. Works great as a lift but the ride is nothing short of rough. Can definitely feel every bump on the road. It throws you around and road noise is loud. Would it be beneficial to get lighter lift springs to make it a nicer ride because this is my dd. would upgraded shocks help? I was looking into sound deadening but it would be better to stop the problem at the source
#2
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Year: 1997
Engine: 4.0L
my old xj had the same setup and rode great.
I had brand new shocks though. Any idea how old yours are?
You can always take them off and try to compress them to check their condition.
I had brand new shocks though. Any idea how old yours are?
You can always take them off and try to compress them to check their condition.
#4
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Year: 1997
Engine: 4.0L
Put it on the ground and push with all your weight.
If they are really bad you can push on the shaft until they easily bottom out.
If they are ok, you will most likely have a somewhat hard time pushing them down.
If they are really bad you can push on the shaft until they easily bottom out.
If they are ok, you will most likely have a somewhat hard time pushing them down.
#5
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Year: 1994
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: Straight 6
To my understanding, a shock's true purpose isn't so much resisting the pushing but rather resisting the pulling. Your springs absorb most of the bumps by compressing. Your shocks do help with this of course, but they mainly keep the spring from, well, springing back and launching the wheel off the ground. I'm sure there are good ways of testing shocks in either direction, I've personally never looked too much into it. YouTube!
#7
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Year: 1994
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#8
I think that what he's trying to say is that the shocks shouldn't just flow in and out with no resistance. It should take a good amount of effort to compress them.
Example, putting my new shock on with my lift, when I had the bottoms bolted in and I missed the mounting holes just a bit on the top in the rear, it took just about everything I had to get them to start compressing back down so I could line them up better.
Unbolt the top nut in the engine bay on one of the fronts, grab hold of the bushings and bushing mount in the wheel well, and see if you can pull it down without much effort or if it takes some "umph" to get them to compress. Obviously this is subjective, but it should take some effort even for a pretty built person to do this. If you can't get it moving at all, then it could be seized; you'd likely know about that though without having to pull the strut since it would be like riding on a steel rod haha.
Example, putting my new shock on with my lift, when I had the bottoms bolted in and I missed the mounting holes just a bit on the top in the rear, it took just about everything I had to get them to start compressing back down so I could line them up better.
Unbolt the top nut in the engine bay on one of the fronts, grab hold of the bushings and bushing mount in the wheel well, and see if you can pull it down without much effort or if it takes some "umph" to get them to compress. Obviously this is subjective, but it should take some effort even for a pretty built person to do this. If you can't get it moving at all, then it could be seized; you'd likely know about that though without having to pull the strut since it would be like riding on a steel rod haha.
#9
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
A while back I ran across and old Consumer Reports review from the 90's on the Cherokee (stock and brand new, of course). They called the ride quality "punishing".
#10
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, comp cam, 99 intake, apn header, neon injectors, Thunderbolt 2.5" High Flow Cat
whenever you lift a vehicle, you change the geometry of the suspension. Steeper angles on your control arms and leaf spring shackles makes for a rougher ride. There are ways to correct this... BUT... It's a 4x4, not a Coup Deville
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