|
Renix to HO swap questions???
Ok so totally new to Jeeps, cool enough just never got into them. I have been reading and trying to understand this world and currently find myself sitting on a stack of rims at the salvage yard because I am confused. Was doing a ton of comparisons between mine and the scrap...
Why would someone put an HO into an 89(this is mine and it's current set up) to replace the renix, YET, the left the renix intake and throttle body set up and bolted it up to the HO block? To me this makes no sense and this thing has power but a big stumble rough idle issue which I am working out. Wondering if this could also be a cause but more importantly should I swap out the intake and TB to match the engine? |
I did Verify this is a 5 5 93 Block in my 1989. It also has a 7120 Head.
|
Here ya go:
CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS HO INTO RENIX SWAPOCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 48 COMMENTS EDITThis swap is easier than some will lead you to believe. And generally Pooh-poohed by those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
Now that we know which engines we can use, let’s get down to business. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from an HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head at the rear for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use a new Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. An alternative on exhaust manifolds: As far as exhaust, you can use the Renix exhaust manifold and be fine. If you want to use the HO exhaust manifold, you must go with an HO headpipe and screw your O2 sensor into that headpipe. Standard Renix harness is plenty long to do so. A bung can be welded into the HO manifold to accept the EGR tube. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO design. See Tips #12 – Setting Your 4.0 to #1 TDC and #13 – Distributor Indexing to be sure you get the distributor installed correctly. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. XJ: “Regular” (not Grand) Cherokees ’84-’01 ZJ: Grand Cherokee ’93-’98 (Gen1) WJ: Grand Cherokee ’99-’04 (Gen2) YJ: Wrangler ’87-’95 (Gen1) TJ: Wrangler ’97-’06 (Gen2) |
I put a 7120 head on my renix block with a 99+ horseshoe intake and a 62mm TB. It's more work than just bolting up a new intake and calling it good. The earlier intakes you just need to extend one fuel line or some had a connection at the fire wall and you can swap the front part of the fuel line (sorry I don't know exactly what year and such for this), and grab the fuel rail from the Jeep you get the intake and TB off of, then you need to make a throttle position sensor adapter and you're done. If you go to the newer intake after they changed the belt tensioner set up you need a power steering pump, an intake, cut a piece off the timing cover or get a newer timing cover (might already have one since it's a HO, but not sure), figure out what belt length you need, new TB, tps adapter, fuel rail, fuel hose extension, the tensioner assembly, and probably something I'm forgetting. I did the newer style intake and such. There's a guy on YouTube nickintimeflims who did a video or a few on it and has a lot of the parts listed that you need. Just remembered you need a new throttle cable too. It's doable to swap it, but I only did it since I was doing a whole rebuild and partially wanted the gains and partially wanted the cleaner looks. I don't remember how much info I put in my build thread on it, but it's my Comanche I did all that stuff on.
|
Thanks Cruiser. I have heard you mentioned in some youtube videos. Greatly appreciated I am going to run through this now. I think I pretty well got it figured out as to why it wasn't running right. And did come to the conclusion through other posts the engine didnt so much matter so long as I had all of my original sensors since the 4.0 really didnt undergo major changes aside from heads.
My issue was I had lost the number 6 injector. Ohms were reading fine but I had no clickty clack going on and assume it was stuck wide open, in conjunction with a blown out fuel pressure regulator. Thing had sick power and wanted to run like mad as long as you stayed in the throttle but it sucked gas like it was going out of style. best guess is about 5 mpg. Idling could eat a tank up in a few short hours.
Originally Posted by cruiser54
(Post 3553174)
Here ya go:
CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS HO INTO RENIX SWAPOCTOBER 31, 2015 SALAD 48 COMMENTS EDITThis swap is easier than some will lead you to believe. And generally Pooh-poohed by those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block.
Now that we know which engines we can use, let’s get down to business. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from an HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head at the rear for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use a new Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. An alternative on exhaust manifolds: As far as exhaust, you can use the Renix exhaust manifold and be fine. If you want to use the HO exhaust manifold, you must go with an HO headpipe and screw your O2 sensor into that headpipe. Standard Renix harness is plenty long to do so. A bung can be welded into the HO manifold to accept the EGR tube. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO design. See Tips #12 – Setting Your 4.0 to #1 TDC and #13 – Distributor Indexing to be sure you get the distributor installed correctly. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. XJ: “Regular” (not Grand) Cherokees ’84-’01 ZJ: Grand Cherokee ’93-’98 (Gen1) WJ: Grand Cherokee ’99-’04 (Gen2) YJ: Wrangler ’87-’95 (Gen1) TJ: Wrangler ’97-’06 (Gen2) |
But is there any added benefit to switching to the newer intake and TB? Is my old renix one hindering the newer 93 block and head? I mean I know that sounds stupid but it may not be stupid to ask. This was the real reason for the OP. If it is hindering me I would like to swith it out and appreciate the info. I have been doing a lot of searching and havent yet come across a set up like mine even though I know darn well they are out there. I just don't see the purpose of changing the block and head, essentially just the head if you arent going to flow into it with a newer intake and TB. Seems a bit counter productive or at a minimum making some form of a double bottle neck if you will. Super uneven flow. Also the threw some ghetto plastic cheapo "CAI" on this thing and hacked up the original rubber intake boot. I have decent access to parts at the local pick and pull. Pretty good selection. Just changed out my power steering pump last night because it was getting very lazy on the left hand turns.
Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
(Post 3553181)
I put a 7120 head on my renix block with a 99+ horseshoe intake and a 62mm TB. It's more work than just bolting up a new intake and calling it good. The earlier intakes you just need to extend one fuel line or some had a connection at the fire wall and you can swap the front part of the fuel line (sorry I don't know exactly what year and such for this), and grab the fuel rail from the Jeep you get the intake and TB off of, then you need to make a throttle position sensor adapter and you're done. If you go to the newer intake after they changed the belt tensioner set up you need a power steering pump, an intake, cut a piece off the timing cover or get a newer timing cover (might already have one since it's a HO, but not sure), figure out what belt length you need, new TB, tps adapter, fuel rail, fuel hose extension, the tensioner assembly, and probably something I'm forgetting. I did the newer style intake and such. There's a guy on YouTube nickintimeflims who did a video or a few on it and has a lot of the parts listed that you need. Just remembered you need a new throttle cable too. It's doable to swap it, but I only did it since I was doing a whole rebuild and partially wanted the gains and partially wanted the cleaner looks. I don't remember how much info I put in my build thread on it, but it's my Comanche I did all that stuff on.
|
Originally Posted by SirHund
But is there any added benefit to switching to the newer intake and TB? Is my old renix one hindering the newer 93 block and head? I mean I know that sounds stupid but it may not be stupid to ask. This was the real reason for the OP. If it is hindering me I would like to swith it out and appreciate the info. I have been doing a lot of searching and havent yet come across a set up like mine even though I know darn well they are out there. I just don't see the purpose of changing the block and head, essentially just the head if you arent going to flow into it with a newer intake and TB. Seems a bit counter productive or at a minimum making some form of a double bottle neck if you will. Super uneven flow. Also the threw some ghetto plastic cheapo "CAI" on this thing and hacked up the original rubber intake boot. I have decent access to parts at the local pick and pull. Pretty good selection. Just changed out my power steering pump last night because it was getting very lazy on the left hand turns.
|
Originally Posted by SatiricalHen
(Post 3553274)
The gains on a stock engine probably aren't worth the swap. You might notice some change, but most of that would probably come from having a larger throttle body opening. If I remembered the numbers right the renix one stock is 52mm and the HO stock is 58mm which doesn't sound like a big difference, but the change in area is huge. I know XJwonders bores out renix TBs, but I can't remember how far he goes. That would probably be the easiest "upgrade". Also, while you're replacing injectors anyway you can go with 746 (I think that number is right) 4 hole injectors. I got mine out of a Volvo. Probably notice some gains from those two.
My biggest deal is currently just getting a good stable platform to go off of and then.... well, I am the adventurous type that will just start slamming stuff in for the WTF factor lol. I will look into the TB and intake thing though. |
Originally Posted by SirHund
VERY NICE TO KNOW! Thank you so much. I was actually looking for different injectors. Mainly to have new ones not really for power gains. Right now I am just interested in learning the XJs and Jeep. Never had one before but once I fixed my little issues I am actually having some fun here. Searching everything I can and watching videos. Some pretty creative types on here and thus far very polite and informative.
My biggest deal is currently just getting a good stable platform to go off of and then.... well, I am the adventurous type that will just start slamming stuff in for the WTF factor lol. I will look into the TB and intake thing though. |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:20 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands