MirageMobile

I am looking to install a quality ~4" lift to use with 33x10.5s.
Primary functions: Daily Driver, Camping, Weekend Trips
Can anyone provide justification for alternatives to decrease the project's cost?

Suspension:

OME 2930 front coils
OME CS033RB leafs
Coil Spacer (~2" spacer or JKS ACOS)
JKS upper control arms
JKS lower control arms
Shackle (JKS or Teraflex)
Shackle relocation bracket (not sure if I'll need depending on OME leaf pack)
OME shocks 60052L and 60053L
Bar pin eliminators (JKS 9604 and 9603)
JKS Adj Trac bar
RE short arm drop bracket
RE short arm drop bracket reinforcement
OME SD40 steering stabilizer
JKS quick disconnect for anti-sway bar

Axles:
Front
regear D30 to 4.10s (have an AX-15)
Detroit TrueTrac
Blue Torch diff cover

Rear
Rebuild a Dana 44 (have a Dana 35 in the rear)
regear to 4.10s (have an AX-15)
Detroit Truetrac
Disc conversion? (haven't researched yet)
Advanced Adpaters SYE and Tom Woods shaft

Tires and Wheels
BFG KM2s
Restore a set of Jeep Turbine wheels (5.25" backspacing)
Spidertrax 1.25" spacers

94XjSport94

At only 4" of lift depending on the wheeling you do the CA drop brackets might not help you as much as you think. They hang down pretty low. I think the ride improvement would be negligible, you can also fit those 33x10.5's on 3" of lift since.

Only thing I would think about is a lunchbox locker upfront instead of a Detroit to save a few pennies. And at 3" you might not need a SYE

Fred/N0AZZ

For your stated use very few of the items are needed. A 3" lift will serve you very well and do everything you plan on doing plus eliminate some of the items also. An inexpensive 3" lift kit that has everything you need will be cheaper that you trying piece meal something together.

Your tire size 33x10:50x15's will not be a problem with a 3" lift I ran 33x12:50x15's (some trimming required) with my 3" lift plus I used stock Upper/Lower Control Arms for several months. After that all I added were adj LCA.

Your wheel and spacer choice isn't good the wheel alone has 5.25 of BS and with a spacer of 1.25 makes 6 1/2" wow all you need is 4" and some run 3 3/4" depending on the wheel. That is way to much stress to place on the end of the axles or steering.

As far as gearing you may want to reconsider the 4.10's if you check with a 33" tire you need 4.56 to bring it back to about stock.

Lockers, I agree on the Lunch Box/Aussie Lockers you can save quite bit there on those 2 items alone.

The D44 and disk brake setup your looking at may be overkill for what you plan it was for me. The Chry 8.25 is a very strong rear end and what I'm using as I don't need disk brakes or mudding/rock crawling strength.

iluv83vettes

Putting 1.25" wheel spacers on with 5.25"BS wheels is the same as 4"BS. You have it backwards.

If you read, he says he has the AX-15, so 4.10 is the right gear ratio for 33" tires.

sreeb

I bought mine with short arms already on it. While I might consider drop brackets at this point, if I was starting from scratch I would be looking at long arms which I think can be had for near the combined price of LCAs, UCAs, drops, and drop reinforcements.

That said, 3", short arms, and no drops seems viable.

sreeb

You will also need some extended brake lines and maybe steer upgrades.

I'm not sure you really need a new front diff cover.

I'm sure that Tom Woods drive shaft is excellent but there are cheaper options from vendors with less name recognition/smaller advertizing budget or you can find one in a JY. I know this is a little more complicated with the ax-15 but they do exist.

brian0128

I've got most of the stuff that you listed for suspension and you won't need to use a JKS shackle to fit 33's if you plan on trimming. If you leave on factory fenders, you will be able to fit 32 inch tall tires with a 1.75 front spacer and no shackle. Call Dirk at DPG Offroad with any questions you have about the OME/JKS stuff. He sells packages at a great price.

Many people said it was overkill to get the OME/JKS stuff for as much as mine is on the road but I wanted to make sure my ride was similar to factory and I also wanted my caster to be set as perfect as possible since I put on so many miles per year. The adjustable control arms allowed me to do this. I've got pictures in my build thread if you want to see how it sits with a 31" tire.

Blaine

He will regret spending the money to regear only going to 4.10, even with the ax-15. I am running an ax-15 w/ 33's and have 4.56 gears. It's optimal, anything less would be a disappointment.

Poloboy406

You're pretty much looking to do what I did with my rig... Its a good setup with 4.10s if you see a lot of highway time. At 70-75mph I am at about 25-2700rpm. If I had 4.56 gears my 5th gear would be useless on the highway.
In the mountains I generally stay in 3rd or 4th.
You could reduce the leaf spring price by building a bastard pack. It cost me like $50 or something for an S10 pack and I got 4+ inches from it. Hasn't settled at all. My front end is lifted with Clayton 4.5 springs and the rear sits raked at about 5-5.5". I love the look though.
You could also find a driveshaft from a v8 zj...thats what I did. Works great! Let me know if you have any questions

EvstaG

Alternatively, I would keep the OME rear springs (CS033R series are a great rear spring- I have the stiffer version of those ones) and ditch the OME 2930 coils which net 1.5-2" lift with no added weight up front. You have compensated for this by opting for an ACOS spacer, and those are quite pricey. I would instead buy a spring that will lift equally to the OME leafs. Something like a RE1300 Rubicon Express 3.5" spring, or Clayton Offroad, BDS, etc. All are quality brands, and if you live in the states are reasonably priced.

MirageMobile

Wow, thanks guys. I will reevaluate my NEEDS, WANTS, and consider every post.

Thanks for the insight, critique, and reality check

andrewmp6

If your staying 33s i would get a chrysler 8.25 over the dana 44 its cheaper and a lot easier to find.