rear disc conversion
#1
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Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
rear disc conversion
so of those of you that have done this...any regrets?...any tips...I am going with the terflex set up i think...is the overall braking better?
Cameron
Cameron
#2
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You could build your junkyard set up the exact se way and save tons of money. That kit is nice but pricey. I've had mine on for over 10k miles and have no regrets, my e brake still isn't dialed in totally but whatever it stops great especially with a trailer on the back
#3
It's much better with the rear discs, especially if you do the Durango master cylinder. I used the 2003 Durango MC with 1-1/8" bore from Wagner: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...484&cc=1413122
Then I did the WJ front brake/knuckle conversion with Akebono calipers and it was a night and day difference. I highly recommend it. About $600-800.
Then I did the WJ front brake/knuckle conversion with Akebono calipers and it was a night and day difference. I highly recommend it. About $600-800.
#5
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Year: 1997, 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
#6
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Year: 2000
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.7L
It's much better with the rear discs, especially if you do the Durango master cylinder. I used the 2003 Durango MC with 1-1/8" bore from Wagner: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...484&cc=1413122
Then I did the WJ front brake/knuckle conversion with Akebono calipers and it was a night and day difference. I highly recommend it. About $600-800.
Then I did the WJ front brake/knuckle conversion with Akebono calipers and it was a night and day difference. I highly recommend it. About $600-800.
Haven't heard about the Durango MC. Got more info on this?
I have the WJ front conversions and love it. Even more so at around $180. $140 of that being the Iron Rock rotors. Really makes a difference in stop and go traffic.
I continue to hunt for a good deal on the ZJ rear setup.
#7
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Save yourself some money and just some off a ZJ. It's the exact same thing and way cheaper. I've got a complete axle I'm selling to a guy doing the same thing this weekend for 150 bucks.
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#8
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
It's much better with the rear discs, especially if you do the Durango master cylinder. I used the 2003 Durango MC with 1-1/8" bore from Wagner: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...484&cc=1413122
Then I did the WJ front brake/knuckle conversion with Akebono calipers and it was a night and day difference. I highly recommend it. About $600-800.
Then I did the WJ front brake/knuckle conversion with Akebono calipers and it was a night and day difference. I highly recommend it. About $600-800.
#10
I got all new parts for the WJ and ZJ rear conversion. If you use some new and used or all used parts it is significantly cheaper. After the Durango MC, it will lock up 35x12.5s with ease and no fade issues. Less pedal effort and less pedal travel to lock up all four wheels. The crossover steering is like rack and pinion and that alone makes it worthwhile.
If you never intend to exceed 35" tires, it's a great choice IMHO.
#11
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
With the WJ conversion, shortly after deciding the cheap rotors I bought were not going to cut it and the Teves calipers were junk, then got the Akebono calipers, Yellow Stuff pads, and Cross Drilled and Slotted Brembo Rotors front and rear (custom made, pilot holes are bored to fit Milemarker manual hub conversion running Warn 37780 lockouts...picked up 1-3mpg!).
I got all new parts for the WJ and ZJ rear conversion. If you use some new and used or all used parts it is significantly cheaper. After the Durango MC, it will lock up 35x12.5s with ease and no fade issues. Less pedal effort and less pedal travel to lock up all four wheels. The crossover steering is like rack and pinion and that alone makes it worthwhile.
If you never intend to exceed 35" tires, it's a great choice IMHO.
I got all new parts for the WJ and ZJ rear conversion. If you use some new and used or all used parts it is significantly cheaper. After the Durango MC, it will lock up 35x12.5s with ease and no fade issues. Less pedal effort and less pedal travel to lock up all four wheels. The crossover steering is like rack and pinion and that alone makes it worthwhile.
If you never intend to exceed 35" tires, it's a great choice IMHO.
i just got power stop rotors for the rear still need to install the discs.
did you really get thaat much of an mpg improvment with the lock out hubs? its something ive been considering
#12
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The ZJ disc conversion is well worth it, and parts are readily available. Don't waste your money on the Teraflex kit. I've had mine for about 1000 miles now (not my dd - did it last spring) and have a working parking brake, too.
#13
ive got the wj stuff already spacers already welded on (teeves calipers tho) just havent decided yet what to do for steering. they probly wont go on for a while since i just installed an axle with one ton steering .
i just got power stop rotors for the rear still need to install the discs.
did you really get thaat much of an mpg improvment with the lock out hubs? its something ive been considering
i just got power stop rotors for the rear still need to install the discs.
did you really get thaat much of an mpg improvment with the lock out hubs? its something ive been considering
Get rid of the Teves calipers ASAP. They are well known for warping rotors. A few exceptions have gotten lucky but the norm seems to be rotor warping and seizing calipers (some have said it's due to pad material getting into the caliper bores because the locking wires don't hold the pads very well). Akebono is the way to go.
For steering and track bar, I used 1.5" DOM and teflon-lined alloy spherical rod ends.
GPS verified mileage improvements. I couldn't believe it. Check out this thread for some more info on the hubs. They have already paid for themselves: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/ma...g-hubs-187725/
#14
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
2 things to add. Get the "guts" out of the brake proportioning valve of the donor ZJ, along with the studs that mount the caliper brackets to the axle tube.