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rear disc conversion

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Old 03-06-2014, 05:56 PM
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Default rear disc conversion

so of those of you that have done this...any regrets?...any tips...I am going with the terflex set up i think...is the overall braking better?
Cameron
Old 03-06-2014, 06:14 PM
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You could build your junkyard set up the exact se way and save tons of money. That kit is nice but pricey. I've had mine on for over 10k miles and have no regrets, my e brake still isn't dialed in totally but whatever it stops great especially with a trailer on the back
Old 03-06-2014, 06:21 PM
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It's much better with the rear discs, especially if you do the Durango master cylinder. I used the 2003 Durango MC with 1-1/8" bore from Wagner: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...484&cc=1413122

Then I did the WJ front brake/knuckle conversion with Akebono calipers and it was a night and day difference. I highly recommend it. About $600-800.
Old 03-06-2014, 06:50 PM
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Does anyone have a write-up for this?
Old 03-06-2014, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ColoradoCorey
Does anyone have a write-up for this?

Here ya go. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/re...-8-25-a-57807/
Old 03-06-2014, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by RubberSideUp
It's much better with the rear discs, especially if you do the Durango master cylinder. I used the 2003 Durango MC with 1-1/8" bore from Wagner: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...484&cc=1413122

Then I did the WJ front brake/knuckle conversion with Akebono calipers and it was a night and day difference. I highly recommend it. About $600-800.

Haven't heard about the Durango MC. Got more info on this?

I have the WJ front conversions and love it. Even more so at around $180. $140 of that being the Iron Rock rotors. Really makes a difference in stop and go traffic.
I continue to hunt for a good deal on the ZJ rear setup.
Old 03-06-2014, 08:48 PM
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Save yourself some money and just some off a ZJ. It's the exact same thing and way cheaper. I've got a complete axle I'm selling to a guy doing the same thing this weekend for 150 bucks.
Old 03-06-2014, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by RubberSideUp
It's much better with the rear discs, especially if you do the Durango master cylinder. I used the 2003 Durango MC with 1-1/8" bore from Wagner: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...484&cc=1413122

Then I did the WJ front brake/knuckle conversion with Akebono calipers and it was a night and day difference. I highly recommend it. About $600-800.
this is the exact setup im planing on. sept with drilled and slotted rotors all the way around
Old 03-07-2014, 12:11 AM
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Here's a video on the Durango MC install.

Old 03-07-2014, 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by cleenrob
this is the exact setup im planing on. sept with drilled and slotted rotors all the way around
With the WJ conversion, shortly after deciding the cheap rotors I bought were not going to cut it and the Teves calipers were junk, then got the Akebono calipers, Yellow Stuff pads, and Cross Drilled and Slotted Brembo Rotors front and rear (custom made, pilot holes are bored to fit Milemarker manual hub conversion running Warn 37780 lockouts...picked up 1-3mpg!).

I got all new parts for the WJ and ZJ rear conversion. If you use some new and used or all used parts it is significantly cheaper. After the Durango MC, it will lock up 35x12.5s with ease and no fade issues. Less pedal effort and less pedal travel to lock up all four wheels. The crossover steering is like rack and pinion and that alone makes it worthwhile.

If you never intend to exceed 35" tires, it's a great choice IMHO.
Old 03-07-2014, 12:54 AM
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Originally Posted by RubberSideUp
With the WJ conversion, shortly after deciding the cheap rotors I bought were not going to cut it and the Teves calipers were junk, then got the Akebono calipers, Yellow Stuff pads, and Cross Drilled and Slotted Brembo Rotors front and rear (custom made, pilot holes are bored to fit Milemarker manual hub conversion running Warn 37780 lockouts...picked up 1-3mpg!).

I got all new parts for the WJ and ZJ rear conversion. If you use some new and used or all used parts it is significantly cheaper. After the Durango MC, it will lock up 35x12.5s with ease and no fade issues. Less pedal effort and less pedal travel to lock up all four wheels. The crossover steering is like rack and pinion and that alone makes it worthwhile.

If you never intend to exceed 35" tires, it's a great choice IMHO.
ive got the wj stuff already spacers already welded on (teeves calipers tho) just havent decided yet what to do for steering. they probly wont go on for a while since i just installed an axle with one ton steering .

i just got power stop rotors for the rear still need to install the discs.

did you really get thaat much of an mpg improvment with the lock out hubs? its something ive been considering
Old 03-07-2014, 12:57 AM
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The ZJ disc conversion is well worth it, and parts are readily available. Don't waste your money on the Teraflex kit. I've had mine for about 1000 miles now (not my dd - did it last spring) and have a working parking brake, too.
Old 03-07-2014, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by cleenrob
ive got the wj stuff already spacers already welded on (teeves calipers tho) just havent decided yet what to do for steering. they probly wont go on for a while since i just installed an axle with one ton steering .

i just got power stop rotors for the rear still need to install the discs.

did you really get thaat much of an mpg improvment with the lock out hubs? its something ive been considering
Several of my friends are running the WJ front/ZJ rear conversions with manual hubs also. All of them say it was worth every penny and would do it again.

Get rid of the Teves calipers ASAP. They are well known for warping rotors. A few exceptions have gotten lucky but the norm seems to be rotor warping and seizing calipers (some have said it's due to pad material getting into the caliper bores because the locking wires don't hold the pads very well). Akebono is the way to go.

For steering and track bar, I used 1.5" DOM and teflon-lined alloy spherical rod ends.

GPS verified mileage improvements. I couldn't believe it. Check out this thread for some more info on the hubs. They have already paid for themselves: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/ma...g-hubs-187725/
Old 03-07-2014, 06:57 AM
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Originally Posted by xjsnake
Excellent write-up.

2 things to add. Get the "guts" out of the brake proportioning valve of the donor ZJ, along with the studs that mount the caliper brackets to the axle tube.
Old 03-07-2014, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Excellent write-up.

2 things to add. Get the "guts" out of the brake proportioning valve of the donor ZJ, along with the studs that mount the caliper brackets to the axle tube.
And definitely the wheel studs...but I'm sure the writeup covers that.

Damn you guys, now you have me all interested in this WJ knuckle swap sorcery.


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