spartan762

I will be installing a RE 3.5" super ride with new spring leaf packs. It will be my first lift, wish me luck.

1994 XJ, 2-Door, 4.0, manual transmission, 230k miles, np231.
Daily driver/weekend warrior.

I just wanna make sure I have all the necessary parts to make it right, and to be prepared for any wrenching that becomes a pain.

I bought some bilstein 5100 series shocks with new nuts and bolts. A RE 1600 adjustable track bar. I won't be installing a SYE just yet, transfer case drop for now.

-I've read some add a transfer case drop and no more vibes, depending the year of your ride.

-Do I need shims for pinion angle?

-Coil spring spacers to level out the front?

- Do I need to drill for the new track bar to fit?

Should I go to a 4x4 shop for an alignment?

I'll be using 31x10.50 r15 cooper stt pro tires. Not worried about trimming fenders, I'm sure it's minimal if anything.

Again this is my first lift on my first jeep, I know its a lot, but I just wanna minimize back tracking and not needing to run to the shop while my ride is sitting on jack stands or a lift.

In advance I appreciate all you seasoned vets kicking knowledge my way, thank you!

Fred/N0AZZ

With 230,000 mi. I'm sure there are ft. end and steering items that need to be replaced as well before the lift so you need to check it out carefully beforehand. Another upgrade you should do is a ZJ tie rod upgrade from a mid 90's V-8 model, it is much stronger than stock and a direct bolt-in cost about $100 from AutoZone for the 3 pcs..


When you order new wheels 15x8" get them with 3.75-4" of BS so they will clear the frame. You still may have to do some trimming to keep them from rubbing.


You should not have to drill for the track bar. But yes you will need and alignment after you finish all the work.


Just remember to start soaking all the nuts, bolts a week or 2 before trying to remove them with PB Blaster.

HYRYSC

Also read up on the common issues that folks tend to have on these older jeeps such as:

Rusty shock bolts that will more than likely break off
Shackle and leaf spring bolts that break their welds and start spinning in the frame
Tips and tricks on getting coils in and out
Good things to do while you have things apart or out of the way already.

I have learned a ton from bleepinjeep youtube channel. Seems like a great guy that would be hoot to hang out with, but his video's and how-to's pretty much show the real deal and not just some stock, showroom jeep that has never seen a speck of rust and every bolt slides right out perfectly.

PurpleToxin505

I have those exact springs, be prepared to get a lll over 4" out of them. I needed an SYE, im sure a TC drop would've worked but I wasn't about to lose clearance. I also have an RE adjustable track bar(IDK if the same PN) but I did have to drill the frame side mount out to fit the bigger hardware. I'd hold off on spacers untill the springs settle and you know where theyre gonna sit. As far as the tires, I only rubbed on 31s when on stock wheels and it was on my LCA's at full lock, a quick steering stop adjustment will fix that, or more offset wheels. I doubt theyll get close to the fenders, Im on 35s now and heavily trimmed and still rub on my LCA's

Veeb0rg

I have the RE 3.5 Superflex with the same re1600 trackbar. Mine needed a TC drop before we could even move it. As mentioned above you will need to drill the stock trackbar bracket on the frame side, but I believe that is mentioned in the install directions. I've had the lift on my jeep for several years now and I'm still 4-4.5 inches. I run JK rubicon wheels and tires which measure out to about 32" before that I ran 31's on stock Jeep aluminum wheels and never had any rubbing issues.

spartan762

Not sure how this forum works on posts, but I responded yesterday. Something about waiting for approval

unidentifiedbomb

RE 3.5" Coils have a spring rate of 280lbs. I'm running those coils, amazing by the way, and they measure exactly 4"s of lift over stock specifications. I think it's because they know a lot of people go 3.5 or 4.5 so they beef up their springs for the extra weight of bumpers and such. Even their 4.5" coils have a lower rate than the 3.5 for some reason.

abodyjoe

i used that exact lift.

first put it on it had horrible vibrations.. put a t-case drop on and fixed it.. i have a SYE here that i have to install then the t-case drop will be removed. the drop got me by until i could afford to buy the SYE.

i bought extended front brake hoses for it too. i thought the way the directions wanted me to bend the stock hard lines was a little half assed and would have looked like *** too..

i ended up using stock 16" wheels.. at first they slightly rubbed the lower arms. all i did was pull the steering stop bolts about one turn and they no longer hit. have been on some tight tails and i can't tell a difference in turning radius.

you can check out th eparts and all i used on mine here... https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/ab...roject-209441/







.

spartan762

I will definitely start soaking my stuff in PB blaster for starters. Gonna head to FN jeep tomorrow morning for a ZJ tie rod. Still looking around for wheels

spartan762

4.5 having lower rating than 3.5 is baffling, but I'll take it. Have you towed anything with it? any sagging? I researched that gm part #38620 and #38621 will do the trick for longer brake lines.

unidentifiedbomb

I don't tow or DD mine so no idea, my bumper has no winch either but it is mostly 3/16" steel. I'm running YJ brake hoses and can unseat my coils with no issues or worries with my setup.

spartan762

thanks for all your input everyone, I thought I had everything I needed. Close anyhow, but good to know some tips and tricks

spartan762

Maybe I'll hit two birds with one stone at FN jeep, see what YJ brake lines and ZJ tie rods they have there

abodyjoe

I got my zj upgrade stuff from Amazon. All moog parts. It was about $100 for both tie rods and the adjusting g sleeve.

JandDGreens

Ok if you haven't already done this you need to do this ASAP! your xj has a single diaphragm brake booster and you will need more stopping power with the larger tires.