RC upper/lower control arms.
#1
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
RC upper/lower control arms.
Okay so apparently my upper control arm is bent to hell. I ordered new RC uppers and lowers and I've heard that installing the lowers is easy. I haven't heard too much about uppers. I searched but I can't seem to find a write-up or video on how to correctly install them. Do I need to lift the jeep for uppers and lowers? What tools will I need to remove the old arms and install the new arms.
IMG_3143.jpg
Heres some other pictures of the trip that bent the arm.
IMG_3051.jpg
IMG_3045.jpg
Went on the first 2 miles or so of the Rubicon.
Thanks,
Jeremy
IMG_3143.jpg
Heres some other pictures of the trip that bent the arm.
IMG_3051.jpg
IMG_3045.jpg
Went on the first 2 miles or so of the Rubicon.
Thanks,
Jeremy
#2
Jack the Jeep up as high as you can and set some tall jack stands under the front frame rails. Then put a bottle jack under the front diff so you can raise and lower the axle ... you want the axle to be sort of free floating with as little spring tension in the coils as possible. Make sure to unbolt the front driveshaft as well.
Mu suggestion is to replace the uppers first. Then the lowers. Getting the lowers to line up can be really tricky ... you will have to rotate the axle and move it around to get the holes to line up .... that's why you want as little tension on the axle as possible.
You will need a good 1/2" drive socket set, wrenches, PB Blaster, and a good piece of 3' pipe to use as a cheater bar.
Are your new arms adjustable? If they are, then you should do a lot of research on how to adjust them properly to get a good balance between pinion and caster angle.
Mu suggestion is to replace the uppers first. Then the lowers. Getting the lowers to line up can be really tricky ... you will have to rotate the axle and move it around to get the holes to line up .... that's why you want as little tension on the axle as possible.
You will need a good 1/2" drive socket set, wrenches, PB Blaster, and a good piece of 3' pipe to use as a cheater bar.
Are your new arms adjustable? If they are, then you should do a lot of research on how to adjust them properly to get a good balance between pinion and caster angle.
#3
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Year: 1998
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Engine: 4.0
Bottle jack or I was able to ratchet from the bottom of the steering knuckle to the inside of the swaybar and I didn't go crazy but it was enough to move the axle forward for my new lower control arms
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Put the uppers in first, with jacks supporting the frame and the axle hanging, you can leave your coils and steering attached but take out the track bar. Then use a come along to move the mount holes close to the control arm eyes then use a punch to pry the eye to line up with the mount hole and blast the bolt through the hole with an impact. Put the track bar back on by lowering the jeep on its tires and having a helper move the wheel until the mount hole and the eye match up. 4 link setups are not fun to assemble especially after you break stuff and re weld mounts but you will eventually get used to the tricks of putting them back together and it will be less of a challenge.
#6
If the arms are the exact same size, that works. If you are installing adjustables or longer arms ... it can be a real pain to line things up unless you can move the axle around relatively easily.
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Jack the Jeep up as high as you can and set some tall jack stands under the front frame rails. Then put a bottle jack under the front diff so you can raise and lower the axle ... you want the axle to be sort of free floating with as little spring tension in the coils as possible. Make sure to unbolt the front driveshaft as well.
Mu suggestion is to replace the uppers first. Then the lowers. Getting the lowers to line up can be really tricky ... you will have to rotate the axle and move it around to get the holes to line up .... that's why you want as little tension on the axle as possible.
You will need a good 1/2" drive socket set, wrenches, PB Blaster, and a good piece of 3' pipe to use as a cheater bar.
Are your new arms adjustable? If they are, then you should do a lot of research on how to adjust them properly to get a good balance between pinion and caster angle.
Mu suggestion is to replace the uppers first. Then the lowers. Getting the lowers to line up can be really tricky ... you will have to rotate the axle and move it around to get the holes to line up .... that's why you want as little tension on the axle as possible.
You will need a good 1/2" drive socket set, wrenches, PB Blaster, and a good piece of 3' pipe to use as a cheater bar.
Are your new arms adjustable? If they are, then you should do a lot of research on how to adjust them properly to get a good balance between pinion and caster angle.
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