Question for guys with 35's and 6.5 or 5.5 inches of lift.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Central Iowa
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
I was just wanting to know how happy people out there are that are running 6.5 or 5.5 inches of lift with 35's? Are you happy with it or do you wish it was bigger? Im going to buy an iron rock offroad long arm 6.5 and just want to know if that size is a good size to run with 35's. Let me know planning to order soon and just want some good advice. Pictures would be great also with your input.
Thanks everyone
Thanks everyone
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 10
From: City of Trees, CA
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I plan on 35's no doubt. but 6.5" is just about the height cap. I dont even want to be running above 5.5"
I'd be more interested in what axle setups people are running than what height..
this thread will be controversial
I'd be more interested in what axle setups people are running than what height..
this thread will be controversial
Junior Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 15,016
Likes: 11
From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
I was just wanting to know how happy people out there are that are running 6.5 or 5.5 inches of lift with 35's? Are you happy with it or do you wish it was bigger? Im going to buy an iron rock offroad long arm 6.5 and just want to know if that size is a good size to run with 35's. Let me know planning to order soon and just want some good advice. Pictures would be great also with your input.
Thanks everyone
Thanks everyone
The only thing I'd do differently is a set of 37" red labels on the same height lift.
Keep in mind, with that amount of lift and tire you're going to have to be generous with the trimming, precise on the bump stopping, and run a good shock set-up. Don't cut corners when you build this thing and you'll be MUCH happier in the end.
This part usually doesn't work but I'll try since you haven't bought it yet:
I'd suggest shopping around for a kit that doesn't use rubber bushings all around and that's not a radius arm set-up with a poorly designed castor adjuster. Lots of people are happy with it but there a much better kits out there.
35's and 5"
Last edited by Lowrange2; May 1, 2012 at 01:34 PM.
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CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by 93XJLI
35s and 6" here. I like the travel for speed, haven't done rocks yet, so we'll see. Drives better than stock on road.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,671
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From: LI, NY
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0, bolt ons for days...
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 615
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From: Bonney Lake, WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 IL6
I run 35" tires with 6.5" lift. I like it and would not go any higher. I have Rough Country long arms and I really liked the price on em, but if I had to do it again I would have saved up a little more for a 3-link kit like Clayton or Rock Krawler offers. Or just made my own 3 link. Due to the link geometry a 3 link will always get you the best articulation over any other design. Radius arms are nice, but will bind up before a 3 link would and when the axle droops your castor angle changes.
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,685
Likes: 6
From: Jacksonville, FL
Year: 92
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by 93XJLI
That works too I guess, but I really like full body xjs. I'm only running 10" front, 12" rear travel.
You actually use all 12" of travel out back?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 243
Likes: 0
From: Central Iowa
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L High Output
I have the 35's already, with a Ford 8.8, and a beefed up Dana 30. Just wanting to know if people who use there jeeps offraod are happy with their setup. Alot of money to gamble on lol.




