Prep-work for a rustoleum roll on paint job?
#1
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Prep-work for a rustoleum roll on paint job?
I'm planning on painting my xj rustoleum flat white. I've read that the flat colors are easier to work with a scratch less. What is the pre-work like? Does anyone have a full write up?
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
No full write up that I've seen, but it's all in the prep work. I remember someone saying that they sanded down the stock paint job so that their new paint would have something to stick to (like a primer...only I guess you're recycling the original paint?).
Knowing that you want to do a roll-on paint job, I want to assume that you want it to be quick/easy. Some clear coat afterwards would also be nice.
Knowing that you want to do a roll-on paint job, I want to assume that you want it to be quick/easy. Some clear coat afterwards would also be nice.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Same as the prep work on any other paint job, make sure everything is scuffed. You want to eliminate the glossy clear coat and just get down to the layer of the factory paint, and clean then mask it off, and don't miss any spots or you'll regret it later. ELIMINATE ANY AND ALL RUST. I would suggest wiping everything down with acetone or denatured alcohol after you've scuffed it, that way it will adhere nicely. Be sure to follow it up with a second walk-around before you pull any masking, just in case you need to hit up a spot more heavily. Clear coat is optional, I did my old VW with just flat black rust-oleum, but without the clear coat some rust decided to come back through.
For smaller areas, if you have a 90° grinder I would suggest these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tr...nfDhoCkZnw_wcB
For just paint prep and removing clear coat, I always advocate for scotch-brite and avoid sandpaper. Stuff just seems to adhere better for me when using scotch brite pads on my grinder/orbital vs using alum. oxide paper.
Good luck, and remember prep is everything.
For smaller areas, if you have a 90° grinder I would suggest these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tr...nfDhoCkZnw_wcB
For just paint prep and removing clear coat, I always advocate for scotch-brite and avoid sandpaper. Stuff just seems to adhere better for me when using scotch brite pads on my grinder/orbital vs using alum. oxide paper.
Good luck, and remember prep is everything.
Last edited by ddurgin91; 07-09-2015 at 11:21 PM.
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#9
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
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On a boat forum I am a member of they have a lot of information on roll roll and tip and roll paint. Many will also add hardener yielding a low cost quality paint job.
Here is a good starting point to look at.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...nder-100-bucks
Here is a good starting point to look at.
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/owner...nder-100-bucks
#10
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Year: 1985
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 2.5L
Just don't do what I saw a while back. Two guys in the Wal Mart parking lot, spray canning and old Ford Pickup, with maybe one empty parking space on each side.
I really would not have wanted to own any of the cars within five spaces of that truck lol. I could smell paint when I got out of my truck, and could hear the spraying after I walked about thirty yards. I still shake my head every time I think of it.
I really would not have wanted to own any of the cars within five spaces of that truck lol. I could smell paint when I got out of my truck, and could hear the spraying after I walked about thirty yards. I still shake my head every time I think of it.
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