please review/hell with my jeep overhaul plans
#1
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My jeep is in the shop right now and I'm planning on overhauling it.
This is my plan, what do you think?
THIS IS MY CURRENT SETUP.
Axles/tires
HP 30(chromos and Aussie)
29 spline 8.25(disc brakes and Spartan)
35" MT/R Kevlars.
Suspension(front)
5.5"RE coils
RC CAD Brackets.
RC adjustable LCA's(flex joints)
Factory upper control arms
IRO adjustable track bar(factory tie rod end at frame side not double shear)
Deousch tech 10.5" travel shocks
JCR 1 ton steering (utk)
Suspension(rear)
RE 3.5" leafs
RE boomerang shackles
HD Shackle relocation brackets.
Deoutsch tech 10.5" travel shocks.
I already have an SYE AS well.
Nates4x4 bumpers front and rear.
WHAT I PLAN ON ADDING.
Steering box brace.
Hybrid Cage ~$400(metal cost)
HD Frame stiffeners (front, middle and rear) $330
2x6 rockers/sliders $100
Detroit locker (rear) $670
4.56 gears $1000
New springs for Aussie locker(front)
IRO double shear track bar+ .75" drop bracket $200
Rebuild flex joints in rc LCA's
Adjustable RE superflex UCA's (flex joints) $200
12" travel bilsteins
Extended brake lines. $100
Does anybody see anything I missed?
Please don't tell me to get long arms. I already have my drop brackets on and they have been fine
Everything else would be staying the same.
What do you guys think?
This is my plan, what do you think?
THIS IS MY CURRENT SETUP.
Axles/tires
HP 30(chromos and Aussie)
29 spline 8.25(disc brakes and Spartan)
35" MT/R Kevlars.
Suspension(front)
5.5"RE coils
RC CAD Brackets.
RC adjustable LCA's(flex joints)
Factory upper control arms
IRO adjustable track bar(factory tie rod end at frame side not double shear)
Deousch tech 10.5" travel shocks
JCR 1 ton steering (utk)
Suspension(rear)
RE 3.5" leafs
RE boomerang shackles
HD Shackle relocation brackets.
Deoutsch tech 10.5" travel shocks.
I already have an SYE AS well.
Nates4x4 bumpers front and rear.
WHAT I PLAN ON ADDING.
Steering box brace.
Hybrid Cage ~$400(metal cost)
HD Frame stiffeners (front, middle and rear) $330
2x6 rockers/sliders $100
Detroit locker (rear) $670
4.56 gears $1000
New springs for Aussie locker(front)
IRO double shear track bar+ .75" drop bracket $200
Rebuild flex joints in rc LCA's
Adjustable RE superflex UCA's (flex joints) $200
12" travel bilsteins
Extended brake lines. $100
Does anybody see anything I missed?
Please don't tell me to get long arms. I already have my drop brackets on and they have been fine
Everything else would be staying the same.
What do you guys think?
Last edited by ohio95xj; 12-16-2013 at 05:14 AM.
#3
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'd definitely add a track bar brace. I found out how important they are while I was on the trail. and a hardened cross shaft for the aussie. other than that the list is alright. of course there's things I would do different. like go with a rubicon trackbar, and a grizzly instead of detroit, and slug the frame instead of use a steering brace
make sure to research how helpful a steering brace actually is on naxja before purchasing one
on sale now 25% off I think http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/825COV.html
make sure to research how helpful a steering brace actually is on naxja before purchasing one
on sale now 25% off I think http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/825COV.html
#4
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'd definitely add a track bar brace. I found out how important they are while I was on the trail. and a hardened cross shaft for the aussie. other than that the list is alright. of course there's things I would do different. like go with a rubicon trackbar, and a grizzly instead of detroit, and slug the frame instead of use a steering brace
make sure to research how helpful a steering brace actually is on naxja before purchasing one
on sale now 25% off I think http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/825COV.html
make sure to research how helpful a steering brace actually is on naxja before purchasing one
on sale now 25% off I think http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/825COV.html
#5
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
oh seriously? hmm why are 8.25's so under supported. oh well. I really liked my detroit even on the road. rarely felt it with the automatic trans
as for the frame, I was going to remove steering box, plate both sides of the frame and bottom, drill the holes bigger, then insert DOM sleeves and weld them in place.
as for the frame, I was going to remove steering box, plate both sides of the frame and bottom, drill the holes bigger, then insert DOM sleeves and weld them in place.
#6
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I'm not sure, they really are a pretty good axle. What I'll probably do is get a good steering box spacer, and run the steering box brace. That should work well enough, right.
#7
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
eh. I would avoid a steering brace altogether. I just can't find the information to back that up at the moment
I would much rather do a stout bumper that keeps the frame from flexing, along with the frame plate and track bar brace you should be fine
or if you still want to spend some money, spend a little more and do this instead http://www.tntcustoms.com/Jeep_Chero...onversion.aspx
and get a 4 bolt YJ steering box. I think that's the route I'm going
I would much rather do a stout bumper that keeps the frame from flexing, along with the frame plate and track bar brace you should be fine
or if you still want to spend some money, spend a little more and do this instead http://www.tntcustoms.com/Jeep_Chero...onversion.aspx
and get a 4 bolt YJ steering box. I think that's the route I'm going
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#8
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
eh. I would avoid a steering brace altogether. I just can't find the information to back that up at the moment
I would much rather do a stout bumper that keeps the frame from flexing, along with the frame plate and track bar brace you should be fine
or if you still want to spend some money, spend a little more and do this instead http://www.tntcustoms.com/Jeep_Chero...onversion.aspx
and get a 4 bolt YJ steering box. I think that's the route I'm going
I would much rather do a stout bumper that keeps the frame from flexing, along with the frame plate and track bar brace you should be fine
or if you still want to spend some money, spend a little more and do this instead http://www.tntcustoms.com/Jeep_Chero...onversion.aspx
and get a 4 bolt YJ steering box. I think that's the route I'm going
Last edited by ohio95xj; 12-16-2013 at 12:15 PM.
#9
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
yeah I think that would be plenty effective. I wouldn't even go as far as saying you have to plate the inside of the frame. HDO plates, track bar brace, JCR spacer, and bumper is more than enough. if you want to figure out the 4th bolt YJ box that would be even better
#10
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
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I will probably do that, also for the fixed ratio. Do you know if the factory 3 holes line up with the YJ box or would I need 4 new holes.
#12
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Year: 1995
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Also, what Rubicon express track bar where you referring to?
Last edited by ohio95xj; 12-16-2013 at 12:57 PM.
#14
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Nates 4x4, I planned on testing to see if it would fit first. What track bar where you referring to. Is it double shear?
#15
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I was running this track bar http://www.seriousoffroadproducts.co...673c6461c02b13
with this bracket http://mudflaps.com/i-7093480-rubico...FStBQgodblMAhA
that setup never came loose. but since I wasn't running plates or a brace, the bolts broke from the inside of the frame bracket and twisted my frame (I had it welded on the outside). I would gladly weld it to frame plates WITH a track bar brace. very sturdy. iron rock runs bushings at both ends of the track bar.. I'll take a johnny at 1 end please but I'm sure the IRO one works just as well
with this bracket http://mudflaps.com/i-7093480-rubico...FStBQgodblMAhA
that setup never came loose. but since I wasn't running plates or a brace, the bolts broke from the inside of the frame bracket and twisted my frame (I had it welded on the outside). I would gladly weld it to frame plates WITH a track bar brace. very sturdy. iron rock runs bushings at both ends of the track bar.. I'll take a johnny at 1 end please but I'm sure the IRO one works just as well