You got any pictures and info on how you did the rest? Or is that all you did?

oh man. forgot all about this thread. yeah I plated the inner side of the front "crossmember" and the whole driver side. bolted the box back up and went wheeling it's held up amazing with the high steer. never took the time to slug the frame because that would be a ***** and I plan to cut it all out some day anyway. if you can, I definitely would slug the frame.

I don't think I took any more pictures. I can never seem to finish any threads or write ups. sorry man

Atmos. Do you got a link or reference to the track bar brace? Mine cracks and pops every time I turn the wheel.

If you're not running a recessed winch, how well does this work for bracing? I left this 1/4" plate in after learning mounting my winch to it wasn't favorable. LoL Pic is prior to it being completely welded in. I also plated outside rails.
Attachment 316678

How is that not preferable unless you're mounting it to the outside? A bumper is good, but like this thread states it needs to be played on at least two planes. Both sides and bottom preferably and a cross brace to the passenger frame rail. I have a bumper, played frame, the box spacer, and a MORE brace. Attachment 265808

Yeah, I was going to mount it outside. I know it doesn't brace the box itself, but it ties the two frame rails together, in theory, limiting flex.

all custom. starting with a ruffstuff frame side mount and a little bit of tube. I didn't see any aftermarket ones that looked sturdy enough for my taste. or cheap enough lol

Now when I make my hidden winch plate/cross member, I plan to use the same plate you see guys bolting on their bumpers with (3 factory holes, and 3 gear box holes) on the inside of the frame rail. Then using similar plates on the outside of the frame rails to make the bumper.

My question is since i will have a total of 4, how thin can I have them and still be strong enough to hold my winch safely? I dont know if I will have the extra 1/4" of space to spare in between my frame rails. Though i think i could spare 1/8".

I'd rather have really well integrated 1/8 instead of a piece of 1/4 that's just slapped on there. that's with welding though. can't ever see myself doing a bolt on bumper

the problem I had with plating the inner steering box plate is that it pushed my steering box 1/4" toward the passenger side. apparently that can really mess up your throw.

what I would do is make the inner plates 1/8 and the outside 1/4, along with the rest of the bumper. the inner plates will help double shear it which is nice but you're right theres not a lot of room to play with in there

I used 3/16 for my front bumper and inner plates

HS00XJ did you still use 1/4" for your winch plate or 3/16"?

all 3/16 I had a metal shop bend the front for me out off 3/16 plate

I know it is a super old thread. So, not sure if the OP will respond...
So, I welded some outer frame stiffener plates on the driver side as I saw some cracks a while back. This area looks good BUT now there are tons of cracks on the inner side of the 'frame rail'. It sounds nasty when I go wheeling. So I parked the XJ until I fix it. My question is simple: did you completely remove the engine in order to weld the plates on the inner side of the frame rail (driver side) ? If not, what did you remove at a minimum? I already know I will have to remove the aftermarket trackbar mount I have, and probably the front axle.

additional details:
-running 35s around 7-9 psi
-dana 30
-rough country trackbar and trackbar bracket
I can provide more details if needs be.

Did you put sleeve’s through for the steering box bolts?

Ron

The previous owner did lots of mods on this rig. I can see that the steering box is not stock. Front bumper isn't stock either. It has been welded to the 'frame rails'. I cannot tell if there are sleeves for the steering box. I guess I will know once I remove it. I need to post pics.. Also forgot to mention that I have a lunchbox front locker as well, which probably accelerated the problem.