Option other than SYE
#1
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Year: 2000
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Option other than SYE
So yesterday I stopped by a local offroad shop. They have a pretty good reputation in the area and they seem very knowledgeable with pretty much all things involving lifts. I was given some good recommendations on what to look for in a lift, but there was something that I didn't quite understand. Everything that I read on this forum regarding a new rear driveshaft after lift either requires some sort of an SYE or a t-case drop with shims. It was suggested to me that there is another option that would save me approx. $900 over an SYE (I am thinking that includes labor from the shop), where the shop customizes my current driveshaft and adds a double cardan joint, but without some sort of SYE. I was told that by doing this, the driveshaft will perform the same as an SYE system, ie no vibes, but will be a much cheaper option.
I was curious if anybody had any more information regarding a driveshaft set-up like this. I should have asked more questions when I was there, but it was supposed to be just a quick stop in between my travels. Also, if this is a much cheaper alternative with the same performance, is anybody running a system similar to this in their Jeep? How well does this hold up over time?
Thanks for the all the help guys.
I was curious if anybody had any more information regarding a driveshaft set-up like this. I should have asked more questions when I was there, but it was supposed to be just a quick stop in between my travels. Also, if this is a much cheaper alternative with the same performance, is anybody running a system similar to this in their Jeep? How well does this hold up over time?
Thanks for the all the help guys.
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SYE cost $200 and 2 hours of DIY labor, for a Hack-n-Tap. Stay away from the driveshafts with a DC joint and the slip yoke. These slip yoke DC shaft may be OK for stret car but not a off-road rig. The slip yoke IS the main sorce of the drive line issues.
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how will that save you $900?
a hack in tap is simple to do... a monkey could do it... just kidding, but not really
either way... you can get the hack n tap SYE and the drive shaft for only $250 shipped... then just follow the directions in the kit
if yours is 95 or older you will need to purchase the seal kit (or purchase a USED 1996+ output shaft housing from the junk yard)
make should you get the drill and tap kit for $20
IF YOU DO NOT OWN A DRILL... make and investment in your future and go to Harbor Freight and purchase there cheapest $15-$20 drill
if you do not own tools... get what you need cheap at Harbor Freight...
another option might be to ask help from your local club... or someone on here that is local
a hack in tap is simple to do... a monkey could do it... just kidding, but not really
either way... you can get the hack n tap SYE and the drive shaft for only $250 shipped... then just follow the directions in the kit
if yours is 95 or older you will need to purchase the seal kit (or purchase a USED 1996+ output shaft housing from the junk yard)
make should you get the drill and tap kit for $20
IF YOU DO NOT OWN A DRILL... make and investment in your future and go to Harbor Freight and purchase there cheapest $15-$20 drill
if you do not own tools... get what you need cheap at Harbor Freight...
another option might be to ask help from your local club... or someone on here that is local
#6
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Thanks for the responses guys. I will check out that link on NAXJA also. It wasn't a matter of doing it myself. I stopped in to ask some questions and get some prices and this was a suggestion I got, just wasn't sure how it worked.
I think the $900 savings was if the shop did it. I am sure even with a custom driveshaft, out of pocket expense on parts wouldn't add up that much. I guess I should have mentioned that he wanted to charge me almost $2000 to install a 4.5" longarm lift.
I think the $900 savings was if the shop did it. I am sure even with a custom driveshaft, out of pocket expense on parts wouldn't add up that much. I guess I should have mentioned that he wanted to charge me almost $2000 to install a 4.5" longarm lift.
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at 4.5" you technically don't need a sye you can get away with t-case drop and degree shims in the rear...sye would be much better but you don't have to anything over 4.5" you need an sye or hack n' tap
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#8
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xjheep92 - Thanks for the link on NAXJA. That really helped my understanding of what it is. Not something I am looking to do now that I know more about it.
Thanks for the advice man. I am going to go with the SYE as my Cherokee spends almost as much time on the beach as it does on the road. With the conditions of the beaches getting worse, I would rather just do it right from the start. I think there is a lot less to worry about down the line with the SYE than with a shims and a t-case drop.
After telling the owner of this shop how much time I am on the beach and what my Cherokee is used for, I can't even believe that he would suggest this option over an SYE. He suggested that I get a BDS kit instead of the Rough Country kit that I wanted because of the abuse BDS can take over RC, but then suggest cheaping out on the drivetrain? Just doesn't make sense to me. This shop definitely lost any future business that I may have given it.
After telling the owner of this shop how much time I am on the beach and what my Cherokee is used for, I can't even believe that he would suggest this option over an SYE. He suggested that I get a BDS kit instead of the Rough Country kit that I wanted because of the abuse BDS can take over RC, but then suggest cheaping out on the drivetrain? Just doesn't make sense to me. This shop definitely lost any future business that I may have given it.
Last edited by XJSurfcaster; 08-16-2011 at 09:22 AM. Reason: clarification
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TECHNiCALLY you needed a SYE 10 minutes after it left the factory. Although many "GET BY" with just a TC Drop. Above 4.5" you may also ne a longer driveshaft.
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