OK...Time for the transfer case drop.
#1
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Year: 2000
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OK...Time for the transfer case drop.
Since I installed my lift (3") I never really had reason to drive highway speeds until recently and when I did, I noticed a definite vibe in the driveline. I'm certain that's what it is in the rear and recently put in new ujoints and it's still there. Only happens at about 65 mph. Everything on the rig's suspension is practically new and tight, I've checked and rechecked from bumper to bumper and closely examined my trans mount, pinions, etc., as well.
I got the skyjacker drop kit which seemed easiest to install as it uses the existing studs as a mounting point and also includes shift linkage hardware so that can be lowered/adjusted as well if needed.
Until I can afford a SYE, I'm gonna run this and plan to install it this weekend. Before I start this.....any unexpected issues anyone has experienced with a transfer case drop? Just trying to get an idea of anything odd or problematic that I might expect to encounter after the fact.
I got the skyjacker drop kit which seemed easiest to install as it uses the existing studs as a mounting point and also includes shift linkage hardware so that can be lowered/adjusted as well if needed.
Until I can afford a SYE, I'm gonna run this and plan to install it this weekend. Before I start this.....any unexpected issues anyone has experienced with a transfer case drop? Just trying to get an idea of anything odd or problematic that I might expect to encounter after the fact.
Last edited by iflyfish; 01-18-2013 at 08:17 PM. Reason: spelling error
#2
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Year: 1991
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Engine: 4.0L Renix and tube header
I have found that by using a 14mm open wrench cut in half works best when working the bolts on top. I always have these with me and can drop a tc in no time.
#3
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Year: 1989 xj sport 2dr
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Engine: 12 hole bosch Injectors
Installing the drops pretty straight forward .A common issue with northern vechicles is rusted bolts that break using PB BLASTER gives ya a chance.
#4
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X2. I broke all but the stud, even with a little bit of heat, be patient and try not to use an air impact. I had great success with a hammer impact on the last crossmember I removed.
#6
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It's in and was a lot easier than I thought. I haven't installed the drop bracket yet for the shifter....I studied that and couldn't quite figure out how to get the rod out of the pivot joint so I can lower the pivot joint down on the new bracket. I put the bolts back in the pivot joint bracket and called it a day. It looks like I may have to dissasemble the entire transfer case linkage to be able to work with it. Shifting seems fine....2wd, 4H, and N shift ok but is a touch stiffer than before. 4L won't quite engage all the way back so I know I'm going have to put the shifter lowering bracket in at some point.
#7
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Year: 1996
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should've gone with shims...you don't lose ground clearance and it's easier. If you do it right you can run 4.5" with just shims, been there done that.
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#9
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I can live with the loss of ground clearance for now. This is a DD and I don't wheel it aside from an occasional rutted dirt road in the mountains when I go fishing and even then it's nothing a stocker couldn't handle. 99.9% of my need for 4wd is because of snowpacked roads.
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