ok 242 tcase question
#1
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
ok 242 tcase question
i have a 99 cherokee with the 242 and i want to do a hak-n-tap. i have called around my local 4x4 shops and they all keep telling me about the tom woods one. yea its nice but not 900 dollors nice so what is my options i looked at iron rock and found there there kit and it said i could use a stock front shaft. i have about 4 inches of lift with a tcase drop and shims im trying to get ride of that stuff and just run a different shaft so i can get a bigger lift. if anyone has somthing in mind let me know thanks
#6
i recently did the ir hack n tap ,all i got from them was the yoke & installed it. then took the yoke to yoke measuremt & had a local driveshaft shop custom build me a rear ds that fits perfect. my front shaft would have been too long & i have 4.5 " lift its also a auto trans 4.0 98 , the front shaft would have fit if i had more lift or maybe cut the output shaft off shorter, but i went w/ a 1 1/2" of spline engagement not the 1" minimum. often jy front shafts are in need of a rebuild anyway & thats at least a $100 right there,i got a brand new one for $ 250.
#7
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I've been running the Tom Woods SYE kit in my 98 for about 7 years now, after going through 2 hack and taps and a few CV joints. Back then it was that badly priced, the biggest hurdle was the core charge, it's something like $300 back then. No idea now.
But on a side note, I do have a late model 242 main shaft and tail-housing I'd sell cheap if anybody needs them for a core charge.
But on a side note, I do have a late model 242 main shaft and tail-housing I'd sell cheap if anybody needs them for a core charge.
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#8
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
I have a 99, at, np242, 4-4.5" rear lift, 1" tc drop and was considering the IRO HnT kit too - beware though. Zack at IRO says you need 33.75" from rear yoke to output shaft to use a stock front xj driveshaft. I measured mine and that would have me cutting off all of my splines so a stock shaft won't work for me. I'll have to get a custom length shaft (shorter than a stock front DS) even if I remove the TC drop as planned. They said they can make a custom length shaft at IRO if you order the HnT kit with their new manufacture driveshaft. That's still pretty much one of the least expensive options I've found so far!
Here's the thread I started last week on this subject:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/np...t-help-155740/
Here's the thread I started last week on this subject:
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/np...t-help-155740/
#9
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#10
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400+500.........That's still $900 out of pocket.
Get a good JY shaft,spend $70 to get it cut,shortened,& balanced.
Worst case,get it totally rebuilt for $100 plus last sentence & you're out $170 & have a practically new shaft.
Get a good JY shaft,spend $70 to get it cut,shortened,& balanced.
Worst case,get it totally rebuilt for $100 plus last sentence & you're out $170 & have a practically new shaft.
Last edited by Big David; 12-08-2012 at 04:01 PM.
#12
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I did mine with a Rubicon kit. Much cheaper and works great since then.
No real reason to pay the price for Tom Wood's stuff. Same with the drive shafts themselves - much cheaper from Rubicon or elsewhere.
Do not order the shaft until you complete the hack-n-tap. Every Jeep requires a slightly different length, depending on lift and such. You need to measure with the Jeep on the ground and order the right length...
No real reason to pay the price for Tom Wood's stuff. Same with the drive shafts themselves - much cheaper from Rubicon or elsewhere.
Do not order the shaft until you complete the hack-n-tap. Every Jeep requires a slightly different length, depending on lift and such. You need to measure with the Jeep on the ground and order the right length...
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