Not sure if I like the look of this -
 

Completely tore apart my entire front end this morning. I'm running a 6.5" lift, with Rustys Offroad adjustable upper & lower arms. Rusty said for my setup, he recommended 16" bolt to bolt upper length, and 17" bolt to bolt on the lower arms.

I measured the arms last week, I knew my front axle was too far forward, and tilted forward, and wow, the uppers were at 19", lowers at 16". So today like I said, tore everything apart to set the lengths. Got everything measured out and starting to bolt it all back together, but already, I'm second guessing myself.




http://i467.photobucket.com/albums/r...j/DSCN5035.jpg



Maybe it's just me, but I don't like how far back the axle is sitting compared to the upper coil spring mount. From center to center, the axle is 5" back. Now, I know the axle is unloaded and fully drooped, so I'm hoping that's the reason why. But what are your thoughts? Continue, or go a different route?

I seldom get days off, so I'm NOT taking this all apart again.

Advice and input welcomed.

It does look a little off to the back. What if you extend the lowers to 17.5" or around there and then see how it looks without the axle drooping?

Those lengths are pretty near the usual table of control arm/lift combinations.

From that table, a 6 1/2" lift will be upper 15 5/8", lower 17 1/4"

I think it all looks wierd due to both sides being done at once.

Just to check though, your lengths were centre to centre of bolt?

Rob

It just looks weird because its at full droop. Once you get it put back together and loaded it will look fine.

When I was on short arms I was 19 or 20 on the bottom and then 17 on top.

http://i872.photobucket.com/albums/a...1129101504.jpg
http://i872.photobucket.com/albums/a...2610115911.jpg


it put the axle about here at 6.5"

http://i872.photobucket.com/albums/a...0103111547.jpg

Yeah I figured it was because its all unloaded. And yeah, my measurements are center bolt to center bolt, even called Rusty again just to confirm the lengths, so according to "mathematics", it should all line up when done...









But I suck at math so I'm just making sure I'm not a complete idiot. Thanks for the input!

Time for LongArms......

Jack the axle up to the position it'l normally be in, ie 24" hub to fender flare, see what it looks like then.

OOPS, you don't have fender flares.

Rob

Your pinion angle is way off too.... i see a u-joint failure soon during some flexing....

i say keep going...u've got ADJUSTABLE control arms....u can adjust all u like, obviously keeping in mind caster, DS length, etc....my preference would be to stretch the front forward more

in your case, yea it does look a little too far back....also tho, like u said, its at full droop....suspension cycles in slight arc, no? pulling back at droop, forwards at compress....i never understood why the bumpstop isnt exactly perpendicular to the axle at ride height, but im assuming its to account for the "arc" the axle follows going up

also here is what the above measurements got me during my "arc"

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/attach...0119111303.jpg
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/member...0410111045.jpg

I wish, just can't justify them for this turd.


I'll take a hit now and then vs. a mad arch in the springs and a horrible ride like I had before. Cheap I know, but then again, $600 truck, not trying to break the bank on it.

btw the axle stretch (mine as posted was 2") helps alot with ride and I have never had an arc in my springs with short arms as posted in the pictures above.

i suggest jacking the axle up, maybe connecting the swaybar and letting it hang or keep jacking till its near ride height or so, then take a look at the bucket locations AND your caster. If one is off, adjust as needed. I too think your caster will need to be adjusted