New Front Driveshaft?
#1
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Year: 2000
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New Front Driveshaft?
Hello, I just got my XJ back from the shop after having my front axle bearings redone and they are telling me that my front driveshaft is bad and want to do a custom one for $550. Don't really want to spend that kind of cash on a front DS right now and was wondering if i have any other options that you guys suggest. I thought about just getting a junkyard drive shaft but dont want to get one and fine out its bad as well. Im looking to get a new oem one if possible and not break the bank. So, what are my options?
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
What did they say was wrong with the other one? If it's just u-joints to change the 3 that are in the front shaft might cost you 50-100 dollars dependent on what joints you get. Or as you stated you could get one from a junk yard but you wont know exactly what you are getting.
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What did they say was wrong with the other one? If it's just u-joints to change the 3 that are in the front shaft might cost you 50-100 dollars dependent on what joints you get. Or as you stated you could get one from a junk yard but you wont know exactly what you are getting.
http://www.discountbodyparts.com/cat...?dbpcid=gglpla
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Year: 1999
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I honestly don't remember. Something about some part being dry, and that a joint or something was shot? I didn't really understand. I was looking online and found this website, has anyone ever bought off it or had any luck?
http://www.discountbodyparts.com/cat...?dbpcid=gglpla
http://www.discountbodyparts.com/cat...?dbpcid=gglpla
#5
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Im not asking about my old drive shaft though, just asking about whats out there for a new drive shaft. They said Something was dry and i really dont know what they could have been talking about. And that from what i remember, one of the yokes would need to be replaced
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Year: 1998
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it sounds like they are taking advantage of you. the part they are talking about that is dry could be the ball and socket joint on the double cardin (top) end of the drive shaft that mounts to the transfer case. There is really only one yoke that could be replaced and could be dry too, and that is the lower part of drive shaft that connects to the front differential. Any mechanic could rebuild that drive shaft.
For $550 you could get 2 of these from Tom Woods http://www.4xshaft.com/ and have better one then what came from the factory.
You could probably find one in the junk yard for about $50 but then again you cant tell what kind of condition it is in until you mount it.
Try to find a reputable 4x4 shop in your area and talk to them they might be able to rebuild the one that you have, or have one on hand from a Cherokee that was taken off for an upgraded one.
For $550 you could get 2 of these from Tom Woods http://www.4xshaft.com/ and have better one then what came from the factory.
You could probably find one in the junk yard for about $50 but then again you cant tell what kind of condition it is in until you mount it.
Try to find a reputable 4x4 shop in your area and talk to them they might be able to rebuild the one that you have, or have one on hand from a Cherokee that was taken off for an upgraded one.
#7
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If something is "dry" on the front drive shaft, that is a serviceable item, and does not require replacing the drive shaft, it especially does not require a custom drive shaft. There are 3 u-joints, and slip yoke, and a centering yoke on the front drive shaft.
The only reason it would need to be replaced would be if it was bent or damaged. If it was bent, you would be getting constant front end vibration while in motion. Damage would be related to the ears being bent, u-joint holes being wallowed out, or the slip yoke no longer allowing contraction/expansion of the shaft.
If the shaft is bent or damaged, they should specifically explain to you what damage they have found before convincing you to replace.
The entire front drive shaft can be completely rebuilt and serviced by a DIY mechanic in about 1-2 hours, using high quality parts, for around $200 (3 new joints, and a new centering yoke for the cardan joint). I know, because I did it.
The only reason it would need to be replaced would be if it was bent or damaged. If it was bent, you would be getting constant front end vibration while in motion. Damage would be related to the ears being bent, u-joint holes being wallowed out, or the slip yoke no longer allowing contraction/expansion of the shaft.
If the shaft is bent or damaged, they should specifically explain to you what damage they have found before convincing you to replace.
The entire front drive shaft can be completely rebuilt and serviced by a DIY mechanic in about 1-2 hours, using high quality parts, for around $200 (3 new joints, and a new centering yoke for the cardan joint). I know, because I did it.
Last edited by jordan96xj; 01-11-2017 at 01:58 PM. Reason: Corrected number of joints on the front shaft.
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Year: 93 2 door
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I love Cherokee front driveshafts. They are so light and simple. If you've never replaced a ujoint or double cardan, now is the time to learn.
the driveshaft and double cardan itself is probably find. Simply get a good grip on the cardan and check it for back and forth play, there shouldn't be much I can't say I've ever seen a very loose one. Then it's just the ujoint at the other end which should be a couple snap rings and a $20 joint. Simple!
even custom driveshafts do not cost $550 that shop is high as a kite. I've had big custom driveshafts built and balanced for $350
the driveshaft and double cardan itself is probably find. Simply get a good grip on the cardan and check it for back and forth play, there shouldn't be much I can't say I've ever seen a very loose one. Then it's just the ujoint at the other end which should be a couple snap rings and a $20 joint. Simple!
even custom driveshafts do not cost $550 that shop is high as a kite. I've had big custom driveshafts built and balanced for $350
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See thats what i was thinking too. This shop is pretty reputable in the community and I know they do a lot of higher end hot rod work and I just think they think this needs to be super tough with the best parts. They keep saying they don't feel right putting the old one back on. I'm probably going to take it to my normal mechanic and have him look at it and if it needs to be rebuilt do that or throw it back in
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Originally Posted by Spydie
See thats what i was thinking too. This shop is pretty reputable in the community and I know they do a lot of higher end hot rod work and I just think they think this needs to be super tough with the best parts. They keep saying they don't feel right putting the old one back on. I'm probably going to take it to my normal mechanic and have him look at it and if it needs to be rebuilt do that or throw it back in
People with limited knowledge and/or know how, with money to blow.
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Year: 1998
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If you don't perform your own maintenance/mechanic work then you need to have documentation for everything. That includes things that "may" be bad. This shop is clearly taking advantage of you being as you don't have a mechanical background (from what I've gathered in this post). Documentation keeps shops in check so they're not telling you straight BS. It'd be like telling you that your muffler bearing is bad so that means you need an entire exhaust system.
BTW, here's a reman'd front shaft for 242 bucks. You pay an additional $53 core charge, send them your "bad" front shaft, after receiving your reman'd one, and they'll refund you the core charge.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....315943&jsn=453
Found this in about 30 seconds....
BTW, here's a reman'd front shaft for 242 bucks. You pay an additional $53 core charge, send them your "bad" front shaft, after receiving your reman'd one, and they'll refund you the core charge.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....315943&jsn=453
Found this in about 30 seconds....
#13
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If you don't perform your own maintenance/mechanic work then you need to have documentation for everything. That includes things that "may" be bad. This shop is clearly taking advantage of you being as you don't have a mechanical background (from what I've gathered in this post). Documentation keeps shops in check so they're not telling you straight BS. It'd be like telling you that your muffler bearing is bad so that means you need an entire exhaust system.
BTW, here's a reman'd front shaft for 242 bucks. You pay an additional $53 core charge, send them your "bad" front shaft, after receiving your reman'd one, and they'll refund you the core charge.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....315943&jsn=453
Found this in about 30 seconds....
BTW, here's a reman'd front shaft for 242 bucks. You pay an additional $53 core charge, send them your "bad" front shaft, after receiving your reman'd one, and they'll refund you the core charge.
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....315943&jsn=453
Found this in about 30 seconds....
#14
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With a little mechanical knowledge a small tool kit and some "C" clamps you can rebuild the drive shaft yourself. There are plenty of videos online and we are always here to help. Once you rebuild the shaft once, you will always know how to do it and it's one more thing that you don't have to pay some one else to do. Everyone here has started were you are, don't be afraid to try to tackle it yourself.