new drive shaft after 6.5" of lift?
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Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 203
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From: Bronson, MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I currently have a 2" space in the front of my jeep, in the next couple weeks I plan on getting a 4.5" rough county lift for it all the way around. I am debating on leaving the spacer up front, but I've heard some people say thay anything over 4.5"-5" I need a new longer drive shaft due to its length and vibrations that it will cause. Is there some accuracy to this?
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Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 922
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From: Centralia, Wa
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
You will need a SYE and a new rear drive shaft. You can get a Hack and Tap and a refurbished driveshaft from ironrockoffroad for 199$.
Most people just put the front driveshaft from a junkyard cherokee in the rear.
Most people just put the front driveshaft from a junkyard cherokee in the rear.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Bronson, MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
So if I take out the spacer and have 4.5" all the way around, do I need the sye and rear drive shaft or should I just get them anyways and should I drop the t case any?
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CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,385
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From: Frankfort IL
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
SYE is for the rear driveshaft. You already have an "SYE" and a double cardan driveshaft up front from the factory. You dont need to do anything with the front as far as driveshaft, but if you leave the spacer in to be at 6.5 with short arms up front your angles will be way off and you will have all kinds of other problems.
Last edited by helmut; Feb 25, 2012 at 07:09 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2011
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From: Apple Valley, MN
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by boomerc1992
Hmm...what's the purpose? Just to extend the driveshaft?
On the back of your transfer case there is one output shaft. It is splined and the end on your stock rear ds is as well. How it
Works stock is that if you hit a bump or flex it, the actual driveshaft slides on the out put shaft.

you see the rubber boot in the picture? That's where it slides to accommodate for the rear axle going up and down.
When you lift you jeep you change the angle of the driveshaft and that slip yoke starts to cause vibrations.
The solution:
An SYE and double cardan driveshaft

And to go the cheap route, you can get a hack N tap from IRO with a driveshaft for $200 (they refurbish stock front drive shafts from xj's, new u joints, paint)
Or you can skip their driveshafts for $80 and pull one from the junk yard (mine was $16.67) and bolt it in!
This is how the back of mine looks as of last night

And it got rid of my driveline vibes at 57-62 mph
Hope this helped ms good luck!
Member
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 171
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From: Daytona Beach, FL
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Check out my post...
Answered all my questions...
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/rc...ut-sye-125740/
Answered all my questions...
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/rc...ut-sye-125740/
Thread Starter
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Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 203
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From: Bronson, MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Ok cool I think I got it for the most part...so basically the best route to go would be just to get a SYE and driveshaft from IRO and not have to worry about stuff falling apart later on...its my daily and I drive 40 miles to work and back everyday so I need it to be dependable. Thanks for the info guys!
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: Bronson, MI
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Just to verify, the hack n tap from IRO is basically bolt on, and I don't have to open the transfer case at all to install anything. I did some more looking around and I saw someone did the sye for the rear and opened up the t-case. I'm not too comfortable with that right now lol
Just to verify, the hack n tap from IRO is basically bolt on, and I don't have to open the transfer case at all to install anything. I did some more looking around and I saw someone did the sye for the rear and opened up the t-case. I'm not too comfortable with that right now lol
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From: Apple Valley, MN
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0L
Originally Posted by meancherokee
installing a real SYE for me is easier then a hack in tap. HT you have to cut and make sure you are drilling dead center. I have have seen/had 2 taps break on me. 30min opening up the case and some snap ring pliers and you are done with a REAL SYE. so many write ups on how to do a REAL SYE that there truly is nothing to be worried about.


