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new drive shaft after 6.5" of lift?

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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 08:45 AM
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Default new drive shaft after 6.5" of lift?

I currently have a 2" space in the front of my jeep, in the next couple weeks I plan on getting a 4.5" rough county lift for it all the way around. I am debating on leaving the spacer up front, but I've heard some people say thay anything over 4.5"-5" I need a new longer drive shaft due to its length and vibrations that it will cause. Is there some accuracy to this?
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 01:48 PM
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You will need a SYE and a new rear drive shaft. You can get a Hack and Tap and a refurbished driveshaft from ironrockoffroad for 199$.

Most people just put the front driveshaft from a junkyard cherokee in the rear.
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 06:50 PM
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So if I take out the spacer and have 4.5" all the way around, do I need the sye and rear drive shaft or should I just get them anyways and should I drop the t case any?
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 07:35 PM
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at 4.5in you will need to do a SYE/New Shaft OR T case drop.. although I don't understand the point of lifting a Jeep then lowering it via the T case drop..
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 07:48 PM
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Ok cool that's good to know! Thank you much for the info...
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 08:28 PM
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So what does the SYE do anyways for the front driveshaft
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by boomerc1992
So what does the SYE do anyways for the front driveshaft
Nothing
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Old Feb 24, 2012 | 09:08 PM
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Hmm...what's the purpose? Just to extend the driveshaft?
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by boomerc1992
Hmm...what's the purpose? Just to extend the driveshaft?
SYE is for the rear driveshaft. You already have an "SYE" and a double cardan driveshaft up front from the factory. You dont need to do anything with the front as far as driveshaft, but if you leave the spacer in to be at 6.5 with short arms up front your angles will be way off and you will have all kinds of other problems.

Last edited by helmut; Feb 25, 2012 at 07:09 AM.
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 07:36 AM
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Originally Posted by boomerc1992
Hmm...what's the purpose? Just to extend the driveshaft?
I actually installed one last night...

On the back of your transfer case there is one output shaft. It is splined and the end on your stock rear ds is as well. How it
Works stock is that if you hit a bump or flex it, the actual driveshaft slides on the out put shaft.

new drive shaft after 6.5" of lift?-image-1094582847.jpg

you see the rubber boot in the picture? That's where it slides to accommodate for the rear axle going up and down.

When you lift you jeep you change the angle of the driveshaft and that slip yoke starts to cause vibrations.

The solution:

An SYE and double cardan driveshaft

new drive shaft after 6.5" of lift?-image-2865759053.jpg


And to go the cheap route, you can get a hack N tap from IRO with a driveshaft for $200 (they refurbish stock front drive shafts from xj's, new u joints, paint)

Or you can skip their driveshafts for $80 and pull one from the junk yard (mine was $16.67) and bolt it in!

This is how the back of mine looks as of last night


new drive shaft after 6.5" of lift?-image-159423003.jpg

And it got rid of my driveline vibes at 57-62 mph

Hope this helped ms good luck!
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 08:29 AM
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Check out my post...

Answered all my questions...

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/rc...ut-sye-125740/
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Old Feb 25, 2012 | 01:29 PM
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Ok cool I think I got it for the most part...so basically the best route to go would be just to get a SYE and driveshaft from IRO and not have to worry about stuff falling apart later on...its my daily and I drive 40 miles to work and back everyday so I need it to be dependable. Thanks for the info guys!
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 11:19 AM
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Just to verify, the hack n tap from IRO is basically bolt on, and I don't have to open the transfer case at all to install anything. I did some more looking around and I saw someone did the sye for the rear and opened up the t-case. I'm not too comfortable with that right now lol
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by boomerc1992
Just to verify, the hack n tap from IRO is basically bolt on, and I don't have to open the transfer case at all to install anything. I did some more looking around and I saw someone did the sye for the rear and opened up the t-case. I'm not too comfortable with that right now lol
installing a real SYE for me is easier then a hack in tap. HT you have to cut and make sure you are drilling dead center. I have have seen/had 2 taps break on me. 30min opening up the case and some snap ring pliers and you are done with a REAL SYE. so many write ups on how to do a REAL SYE that there truly is nothing to be worried about.
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Old Feb 26, 2012 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by meancherokee

installing a real SYE for me is easier then a hack in tap. HT you have to cut and make sure you are drilling dead center. I have have seen/had 2 taps break on me. 30min opening up the case and some snap ring pliers and you are done with a REAL SYE. so many write ups on how to do a REAL SYE that there truly is nothing to be worried about.
It's a cost factor for most people like myself...
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