Need help with alternator upgrade
#1
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Need help with alternator upgrade
We have all heard about this and seen numerous posts about installing a 136 amp alt in an XJ, well, here's another one! I'm just needing to get this straight. I read you can just run a 4 awg wire from the alternator straight to the battery+ WITH an inline fuse. Maybe a 150 amp fuse?
To clarify, doing to modification doesn't mess up anything having to do with the PCM does it? Or the Automatic Shut Down relay?
To clarify, doing to modification doesn't mess up anything having to do with the PCM does it? Or the Automatic Shut Down relay?
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
2- battery+ to starter
3- battery+ to alternator
4- battery- to fender-well
5- battery- to engine block
6- engine block to firewall
This is Jon Kelley's works in progress. He is on the forum as "5-90" check out his wiring upgrade. Also, consider doing a 160a grand cherokee alternator and the 1awg wiring upgrade, it's no harder to do than the 136a.
http://www.kelleyswip.com/electric.html
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Thank you for bringing that up! I was considering the higher 160amp because I can across one at the JY. It's in a 98 Ram1500. Then I started thinking if I really needed that much output. I'm not really running anything other than an amp to push a 12" sub and upgraded headlight harness. Is 160amps too much charge for the battery?
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Thank you for bringing that up! I was considering the higher 160amp because I can across one at the JY. It's in a 98 Ram1500. Then I started thinking if I really needed that much output. I'm not really running anything other than an amp to push a 12" sub and upgraded headlight harness. Is 160amps too much charge for the battery?
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True about more things will come,I'll put off road lights eventually! According to my research 97-98 ram dakota grand cherokee and 98 durango had the same 136amp. And apparently 136 and 160 are the same size so alls good there. Yeah I'm usually skeptical about buying JY parts but might just take the chance, $24 ain't too bad.
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Year: 1994 1993
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True about more things will come,I'll put off road lights eventually! According to my research 97-98 ram dakota grand cherokee and 98 durango had the same 136amp. And apparently 136 and 160 are the same size so alls good there. Yeah I'm usually skeptical about buying JY parts but might just take the chance, $24 ain't too bad.
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Definitely going to try a JY alternator. I saw a few OEM ones and like you said, hood left up, a little discouraging looking. And a few, what looked like remans.
I'd like to make my own cables, only cuz I enjoy making my own "parts" and cuz I hate waiting for shipping lol. I actually made my headlight harness out of a harbor freight 12awg extension cord and a couple relays. Of course with help from existing wiring diagrams...
I'd like to make my own cables, only cuz I enjoy making my own "parts" and cuz I hate waiting for shipping lol. I actually made my headlight harness out of a harbor freight 12awg extension cord and a couple relays. Of course with help from existing wiring diagrams...
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Engine: 4.0 I6
I have had several JY alternators rebuilt by reputable shops. I trust them so much more than a random reman'd alternator put together in Mexico - about 75 to have it fully rebuilt around me, 85 if I want the case painted. Just something to consider.
Also, I would suggest using ring terminal AMG/MEGA fuses as opposed to the scree down car audio type. Increased resistance to vibration and wire corrosion. Just get all of that from 5-90 AKA Kelly's WIP AKA John and save yourself the hassle of doing all the R&D.
EDIT:
As I understand it, the alternator output is dictated by the PCM or something (external from the alternator), so you can put in whatever size alternator you want and the only difference is the max theoretical output of the alternator at ~14.4v. If that is equal to or greater than your ampere load on the system, then you are charging the battery. If not you are basically discharging the battery.
And good quality 0/1 Gauge wire will usually do 300 amps or so FYI. The fuse should never exceed the rating of the wire, so give yourself some overhead on the fuse (meaning run a 175 amp fuse for a 160amp alternator).
Try and find a 160 amp unit, use Google while you are at the lot to find the right unit. A very worthwhile upgrade. My voltmeter never moves, but my lights still dim when I use my turn signals because of the stupidly designed headlight switch in the XJ that a haven't fixed with a relay harness yet.
Also, I would suggest using ring terminal AMG/MEGA fuses as opposed to the scree down car audio type. Increased resistance to vibration and wire corrosion. Just get all of that from 5-90 AKA Kelly's WIP AKA John and save yourself the hassle of doing all the R&D.
EDIT:
As I understand it, the alternator output is dictated by the PCM or something (external from the alternator), so you can put in whatever size alternator you want and the only difference is the max theoretical output of the alternator at ~14.4v. If that is equal to or greater than your ampere load on the system, then you are charging the battery. If not you are basically discharging the battery.
And good quality 0/1 Gauge wire will usually do 300 amps or so FYI. The fuse should never exceed the rating of the wire, so give yourself some overhead on the fuse (meaning run a 175 amp fuse for a 160amp alternator).
Try and find a 160 amp unit, use Google while you are at the lot to find the right unit. A very worthwhile upgrade. My voltmeter never moves, but my lights still dim when I use my turn signals because of the stupidly designed headlight switch in the XJ that a haven't fixed with a relay harness yet.
Last edited by investinwaffles; 02-17-2014 at 08:06 PM.
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
True about more things will come,I'll put off road lights eventually! According to my research 97-98 ram dakota grand cherokee and 98 durango had the same 136amp. And apparently 136 and 160 are the same size so alls good there. Yeah I'm usually skeptical about buying JY parts but might just take the chance, $24 ain't too bad.
#12
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Also, I would suggest using ring terminal AMG/MEGA fuses as opposed to the scree down car audio type. Increased resistance to vibration and wire corrosion. Just get all of that from 5-90 AKA Kelly's WIP AKA John and save yourself the hassle of doing all the R&D.
EDIT:
As I understand it, the alternator output is dictated by the PCM or something (external from the alternator), so you can put in whatever size alternator you want and the only difference is the max theoretical output of the alternator at ~14.4v. If that is equal to or greater than your ampere load on the system, then you are charging the battery. If not you are basically discharging the battery.
And good quality 0/1 Gauge wire will usually do 300 amps or so FYI. The fuse should never exceed the rating of the wire, so give yourself some overhead on the fuse (meaning run a 175 amp fuse for a 160amp alternator).
Try and find a 160 amp unit, use Google while you are at the lot to find the right unit. A very worthwhile upgrade. My voltmeter never moves, but my lights still dim when I use my turn signals because of the stupidly designed headlight switch in the XJ that a haven't fixed with a relay harness yet.
EDIT:
As I understand it, the alternator output is dictated by the PCM or something (external from the alternator), so you can put in whatever size alternator you want and the only difference is the max theoretical output of the alternator at ~14.4v. If that is equal to or greater than your ampere load on the system, then you are charging the battery. If not you are basically discharging the battery.
And good quality 0/1 Gauge wire will usually do 300 amps or so FYI. The fuse should never exceed the rating of the wire, so give yourself some overhead on the fuse (meaning run a 175 amp fuse for a 160amp alternator).
Try and find a 160 amp unit, use Google while you are at the lot to find the right unit. A very worthwhile upgrade. My voltmeter never moves, but my lights still dim when I use my turn signals because of the stupidly designed headlight switch in the XJ that a haven't fixed with a relay harness yet.
Well $24 sounds like a deal, even if it does have to be rebuilt you're still in it less than or about the same as a new one. If you want to make your own cables then all the power to ya! I decided to buy 5-90's because they are very high quality cables that are the exact lengths for an XJ with the proper terminals on the ends and the inline use already there. Idk if they make a 175a fuse, so you might just have to go with a 200a. I would contact john about it, even if you don't end up buying from him. He is still very knowledgable and helpful as far as anything electrical goes.
Last edited by JeepMoreDoor; 02-17-2014 at 10:11 PM.
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