T2xjdude

Hello there. I bought my fisrt xj ($800) about 6 months ago, and I would love some imput from you folks. Thank you in advance for the suggestions.


First off, the jeep is a 91 with what I believe is a 4" RC lift and 33" tires. It had the lower control arm drop brackets, SYE, and a Ford 8.8 conversion with welded spider gears. Otherwise, I believe it is stock. It was set up for mudding mostly... and I know it has been put to use in that regard.
So far I have gotten all of the small things immediate fixes taken care of; like new floor pans, wiring etc. So, it is driveable for short durations because the suspension POPS like a mo fo and has no sway bar...


I really would like to make this rig a bad *** capable daily driver which I can hit the trails with every weekend.


My question is what do you guys suggest to do with the suspension? I was looking into getting a 3 link kit and beefed up tire rods/ track bar etc. But I don't know if its really worth starting off with this idea? Can I achieve a cumfortable ride by going this route? Or should I focus on repairing the stock components if they can still be used?


Keep in mind; this is not my daily driver. So, it can be down for awhile. But, I would love to have this thing somewhat complete by next summer. I do live in FL after all.


I am currently deployed, but I will be back stateside soon, and I can't wait to wrench on my jeep. So, any ideas are welcome.


Once again, thanks for the advice. I'm sure you experienced folks have some great ideas. Thank you.

krazynezz

First off, welcome and thanks for your service.

Drop brackets are okay for light to moderate wheeling, but nothing beats a solid long arm set up (especially a 3 link). An aftermarket steering set up with a beefed up drag link, tie rod, and tie rod ends will certainly help with driveability as well. A steering box brace will help too, but may not be entirely necessary unless you plan on stepping the tire size up more.Also consider replacing the stock aluminum steering box spacer, thay are known to desintigrate over time (especially if used off road frequently).

I would also recommend replacing the welded spiders with some sort of real locker. What you're willing to spend on the locker really determines what kind of locker to get, but since the spiders are welded and you will have to replace them anyway, I would recommend a full case locker not a lunchbox locker.

Another thing to make note of, these "frames" like to start cracking around the steering box, so check that area thourghly for any signs of damage! If there are any cracks, you will NEED to reinforce that area!! Also if its cracked, I would put even more emphasis on getting a steering box brace! If you do need/want one, get a good solid one that braces the box between both sides of the frame.

TFitzPat87

I agree with Krazynezz. My additions to that would be... depending on how much money you're willing to spend, I would get rid of the RC lift and start over with something better. The popping is probably from their crap bushing going bad.

However if you don't go that route, replace any bad bushings or whatever else in the suspension and go from there. A 3-link is a great idea (or long arms in general)! I'm putting a 3-link on mine and my XJ see's mostly pavement. Also, definitely upgrade the track bar to a double sheer. This could also be another place it's popping at.

Basically, get it to a point where you are confident in its road worthiness, and then upgrade everything else. A nice lifted XJ isn't much good if it's not mechanically sound.

T2xjdude

Thanks krazynezz. I will definitely do some further inspection or the frame area. I also plan on getting some frame stiffiners asap just so I know the unibody can take whatever modifications i throw at it. Any recommendations as to which stock steering components I can keep with this d30? Or should I go ahead and plan on swapping knuckles and or axles while I have it apart? Thanks again!

T2xjdude

Thank you too tfitzpat. Would either of you guys recommend getting a junk yard sway bar to help stabilize the drive? I only ask because this thing really leans in mild paved turns.

TFitzPat87

Couldn't hurt. Just take the sway bar, leave the links, and order up some quick disco's.

In regards to steering, the cheapest is to go with a V8 ZJ Tie rod. Direct bolt on to our XJ's and much stronger than the stock piece of crap. Outside of that, you can get a UTK (under the knuckle) setup for a decent price, and you usually just have to ream out the knuckles and pitman arm. Or if you're a welder, you can go OTK (over the knuckle) but thats a bit more involved.

T2xjdude

Awesome. Thank you again. I figure the zj route is what I'll go with for now. I would like to go with an over the knuckle set up as well. I've seen a few writeups and videos, and it doesn't look too difficult. I do weld and have decent fab skills when I have the material available. I am considering building a 3 link and new crossmember, but I'm having difficulties finding which size heim joints to go with etc. And doing some quick number crunching shows me paying close to the same as a bolt it kit. But I would like to fabricate as much of this project as possible.

Fred/N0AZZ

One major item is the rear end being welded it really should have a locker a full case one and a gear change front and back for what ever size tires you plan on running. If you can afford one a selectable locker for the D30 is a vg idea.

T2xjdude

Thank you Fred. I really need to get back and inspect the 8.8 that is installed. I haven't really been able to figure out what year it is and the condition of the gears; front or back. I do plan on getting lockers for both once I get them pulled.


On a side note. I'm from MO as well... So cheers to home states Fred!

Fred/N0AZZ

Welcome back home soon then!!!! Where are you from?

T2xjdude

Born and raised in St. Louis proper. Not the east side lol.

EvstaG

If you're bombing through mud and aren't going to be getting into overly technical wheeling, I would keep the drop brackets and spend money elsewhere. Take care of that popping first and foremost, replace worn bushings, etc. If you want to keep it daily-friendly, mostly see mud, and aren't interested in spending a bunch of money, I would swap the welded rear diff for a low mile junkyard limited slip 8.8 carrier, and buy a locker for the front D30.

Edit: Actually, if you can't set up gears, it might be worth it to just go ahead and get a full case locker for the rear instead of a LSD.

T2xjdude

Thank you evstag. That is what I am leaning towards. I probably won't get into much rock crawling in my parts, but I would like to make this thing streetable and capable of handling muddy trails. And I really want to get this thing safe because or plan on taking my kiddos out as much as possible. So functionality will be first and foremost. but or would like to swag up the suspension as I go through it fixing the obvious issues. Thanks again!

TFitzPat87

That's definitely the cheaper route, but I personally don't like how the drop brackets hang so low. Just something else to get hung up on. Plus that might work against you even in mud because if the muds deep enough they'll be dragging along slowing you down. You don't want that in mud!

Again, just my thoughts!

T2xjdude

Yeah. I have to agree. The 3 link is going to happen. Especially since I will have everything pulled out. I definitely want comparable suspension geometry to what is have with the brackets. so, I'm thinking long arms are the way to go. Thank you.