Moving Up From 3" to 4.5"
#1
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Moving Up From 3" to 4.5"
I currently have a 3" Rusty's suspension lift. New Springs Not AAL.
What I am planning is to use a 1" spacer on the fron and a shackle on the back. My questions are not about the lift but rather any issues witha 4" lift.
I assume I will need to shim the back axle to smooth out the driveshaft angle. Do I NEED to invest in a Slip Yoke Eliminator? Do I NEED a different drive shaft? I have alrady upgraded to an adjustable Trac Bar so That can be configured. I just want to make sure that I have what I need when I do the work. The reason I am going highr is I want to put on a set of Rock sliders but dont want to hinder clearance. By going up an additional inch I will even it out. Please let me know any information would be great.
What I am planning is to use a 1" spacer on the fron and a shackle on the back. My questions are not about the lift but rather any issues witha 4" lift.
I assume I will need to shim the back axle to smooth out the driveshaft angle. Do I NEED to invest in a Slip Yoke Eliminator? Do I NEED a different drive shaft? I have alrady upgraded to an adjustable Trac Bar so That can be configured. I just want to make sure that I have what I need when I do the work. The reason I am going highr is I want to put on a set of Rock sliders but dont want to hinder clearance. By going up an additional inch I will even it out. Please let me know any information would be great.
#2
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
well, most XJ's are ok at the 3-4" range w/o driveline adjustments. but! if you have a couple bucks and want to eliminate any potential issues then a hack and tap SYE is cheap and legit. tom woods DS and SYE kits can be found for about 500. 3* axle shims and a front DS would be good. this with a 1" TC drop will be enough. but a SYE and shim is best, IMHO!
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well, most XJ's are ok at the 3-4" range w/o driveline adjustments. but! if you have a couple bucks and want to eliminate any potential issues then a hack and tap SYE is cheap and legit. tom woods DS and SYE kits can be found for about 500. 3* axle shims and a front DS would be good. this with a 1" TC drop will be enough. but a SYE and shim is best, IMHO!
Yeah I was thikning about doing a TC Drop as well..... The amount of bolts I have broken in my jeep makes me warry of taking one out of the frame again. I broke one of My Sway arm bolts and had to cut a hole in my frame and weld it back!!! Im hoping to not repreat that but I guesss if worse come to sorse I could. But yeah I think a TC Drop would help a bit too. I need a new drive shaft with a hack tap correct??!!
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
At 5" lift I had problems with drive shaft vibes. 1" t-case solved it to about 80%. Still feel a very very slight vibration at about 45 mph occasionally.
If you can afford it, id do an SYE right away.
If you can afford it, id do an SYE right away.
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#8
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O. 180K miles
What year is the jeep? The newer transfer cases (96+) are usually more problematic when it comes to increasing ride height and messing with DS angles.
#9
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Jeep is a 2001 XJ. Im thinking I am going to wait to do any lift till I upgrade to a long Arm Setup. I really think it would be a good way to go and would cause me to have to modify my TC with that anyways So I think I will wait and change it then. In the mean time I am going to focus on building my sliders and tightening things up. I have some steering issues I need to clean up.
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L MPI V8 (318)
We lift our Cherokees for clearance, why would you consider doing a T-case drop, making the guts lower, and losing clearance on it?
#11
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Year: 99
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4 ohh
I bought everything for my SYE for 200 dollars. Why do a crappy t-case drop? HNT and stock front shaft with 4* shims is my setup. I beat the **** outa my jeep and it works fine. going from 3-4.5 is not cheap or easy. I will make a sticky that explains this so we dont have to deal with these questions every other day.
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