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minimum thickness for 2x6 sliders

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Old 01-24-2012, 12:58 PM
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Default minimum thickness for 2x6 sliders

I want to weld on some 2x6 sliders, and i want them to be strong enough to take abuse. but its also my dd and any extra weight just hurts gas mileage.

everything else ive fabbed up ive used 3/16
but my bumpers dont take much abuse.
and seeing as these will be welded on, once there on there pretty much on. haha

i was thinking 1/4in, but what do you guys think?
i dont think ill be dropping on them often,
more just using them as pivot points on trees and sliding over rocks
would 3/16 do the trick?


also awhile back while i was looking at someones build of 2x6 sliders
someone recomended some sort of plastic or something other than metal that was lighter but still durable, to be used to go from the 2x6 tubing to the frame.? any one have any idea what im talkin bout?
Old 01-24-2012, 01:07 PM
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The thicker the better... Or so that's what the gf keeps sayin

Brandon
Old 01-24-2012, 01:14 PM
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3/16 should be fine. whats more important is tieing them in properly if you really abuse your jeep and want it to last
Old 01-24-2012, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ktmracer419
3/16 should be fine. whats more important is tieing them in properly if you really abuse your jeep and want it to last
well to be honest for now i was just planning on welding the 2x6 slider and leaving as is.
like this.

do you think thats enough or are support beams necessary.
i just know that if i add fram tie ins there gonna be a place that rocks could catch on. unless i skided the entire under side with that plastic stuff that im trying to figure out what its called.
Old 01-24-2012, 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 96rokee
well to be honest for now i was just planning on welding the 2x6 slider and leaving as is.
like this.

do you think thats enough or are support beams necessary.
i just know that if i add fram tie ins there gonna be a place that rocks could catch on. unless i skided the entire under side with that plastic stuff that im trying to figure out what its called.
i did it like that a few years ago on my last xj. eventually the doors wouldnt sit right and there were pretty large gaps between the seals and the doors. as well as the doors got pushed up to touching the a pillar and rain gutter whenever they were closed.

did it like that again on my next xj and never got around to tieing it in and the same thing happened.

i dont care about the body so much though anymore and my doors are now welded shut
Old 01-30-2012, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by ktmracer419
i did it like that a few years ago on my last xj. eventually the doors wouldnt sit right and there were pretty large gaps between the seals and the doors. as well as the doors got pushed up to touching the a pillar and rain gutter whenever they were closed.

did it like that again on my next xj and never got around to tieing it in and the same thing happened.

i dont care about the body so much though anymore and my doors are now welded shut
what would you say is the best way to tie in to the frame then?
to prevent having to weld my doors shut

ive seen people take 2x2 and cut thru the floor of the jeep to get a direct angle to the frame.. and to get more weld spots. lottta work tho and i cant remember where i found that build
ive also seen people just take 1/4" plate and make 2-3 little truss type jigs, but that seems like it would get hung up?
and then like the link i posted, he just welded both sides of the 2x6 and called it good.. ( but i dont want my doors getting all tweaked long term )


Last edited by 96rokee; 01-30-2012 at 01:31 PM.
Old 01-30-2012, 01:35 PM
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agreed 3/16" is more than sufficient, but you're going to want to brace it to the unibody rails. You can boatside the braces afterwards if you're worried about catching them on stuff - the plastic you're thinking of is called Ultra-High-Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMW-PE)
Old 01-30-2012, 03:29 PM
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I'd be surprised if you ripped into 3/16" but I don't doubt that you could dent it with enough abuse. Honestly though, it becomes a question of how much weight you're willing to deal with vs. how much it bothers you to receive a dent in a part that's only purpose is to get hit...
Old 01-31-2012, 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by dukie564
agreed 3/16" is more than sufficient, but you're going to want to brace it to the unibody rails. You can boatside the braces afterwards if you're worried about catching them on stuff - the plastic you're thinking of is called Ultra-High-Molecular Weight Polyethylene (UHMW-PE)
what thickness would you think to use on the uhmw-pe
same 3/16"

know of any build threads that used this stuff?
Old 01-31-2012, 01:05 PM
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These are the braces on mine. They were made on a metal brake, but could be made by welding 3 pieces together to form the same shape. I've never gotten hung up on them.

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Old 01-31-2012, 01:07 PM
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at least 3/8" thick, it's semi flexible when it's thin. It's the same kind of stuff plastic cutting boards are made of, but harder. Treat it like wood - drill and countersink the fasteners to attach it to the slider framing.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1000141
Old 01-31-2012, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by zr2toxj
These are the braces on mine. They were made on a metal brake, but could be made by welding 3 pieces together to form the same shape. I've never gotten hung up on them.

have a build thread?
Old 01-31-2012, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by zr2toxj
These are the braces on mine. They were made on a metal brake, but could be made by welding 3 pieces together to form the same shape. I've never gotten hung up on them.

wow, that looks so clean, nice job, i dont weld yet thats why im asking... I didnt think you could weld a thick metal to a body panel becasue it would burn it out or "melt through" like i said im not a welder so dont make fun of me. i just thought there was somthing about too much heat thin vs thick metal also welding to painted surfaces???


sorry to hijack but im just trying to learn
Old 01-31-2012, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by crbnfibr
wow, that looks so clean, nice job, i dont weld yet thats why im asking... I didnt think you could weld a thick metal to a body panel becasue it would burn it out or "melt through" like i said im not a welder so dont make fun of me. i just thought there was somthing about too much heat thin vs thick metal also welding to painted surfaces???


sorry to hijack but im just trying to learn
im pretty sure he only welded the support beams to the 2x6, and to the frame rails.
which are both thick enough steels to handle it.

you are correct tho that welding 3/16 steel to a body panel thats 1/16 would be difficult.
Old 01-31-2012, 06:11 PM
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this is a great thread that im going to follow since i want to do the same but not sure if i want to do a 2x4 and add a tube on the outside because 2x6 with a tube might stick out too much....what you guys think?


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