When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello, jeepers! So, I stumbled on 35s, a rebuilt 231 tc, custom driveshaft and used (5000 miles) rough country long arm kit. Cheap, too. Under a grand for it all. I never would have went to 35s, but today, on impulse, I pulled the trigger.
I currently run 4.5" and 31s. I'm going to keep this jeep until I die, so now it's time to talk axles. Here are my questions, I appreciate your help!
I have a 2000 xj, with a 4.0 and it's an automatic. I have a bored t.b., cai, upgraded injectors, and a 2.5 cat back. I am considering a new header and am buying a high flow cat. I'll have my exhaust bent and welded when I install the jks ogs999 rear shock crossmember. The jeep is a dd and sees mostly town use, short highway trips, and mild trail use.
That said..
1) what upgrades are critical for the axle? C gussets seem like what most people do in my situation and they seem to get by. I will be installing ujoints soon.
2) can I go with 4.88 gears? I am considering a locker, as well. Maybe a truetrac. What gears and locker combo will fit in a lp Dana 30?
3) is there anything I should consider with a lightly used rc long arm kit? I need new control arms and the used kit is a steal.
Basically, I want to do it right and I want my axle to last for light wheeling. I love moab for the mountain biking, but want my jeep trail capable. I'd love to do some wheeling down there.
I live in wyoming and snow and rain are common.
4) what locker should I use given highway driving and snowy conditions?
I should note that I have the chrysler 8.25 rear. 5) should I consider and other upgrades, to the rear axle or jeep itself?
Thanks, yet again, cherokeeforum! I can't thank you enough.
Last edited by 01xjMontucky; 04-26-2015 at 11:20 PM.
I would change the front for a high pinon dana 30,Truss it and c gussets that should make it as strong as a dana 30 can be.On the used long arm kit depends how cheap it is and what it will cost to replace all the bushings in it.The 8.25 upgrade the axle shafts and it will handle 35s no problem.
I would change the front for a high pinon dana 30,Truss it and c gussets that should make it as strong as a dana 30 can be.On the used long arm kit depends how cheap it is and what it will cost to replace all the bushings in it.The 8.25 upgrade the axle shafts and it will handle 35s no problem.
He has an older jeep xj for sale with a hp d30, but I would have to take the whole rig. Maybe I'll drive the two hours north where I know a junkyard with 5 xjs rotting away. Maybe I'll find something decent.
I can't weld, so I hope for a direct swap.
I checked all the joints in the long arms, they look good. After the 3" lift I did from rc, I told myself I'd never give them another penny. But, the long arm kit is a steal. Coming with a rebuilt tc and custom driveshaft is just the icing... I think I have to do it.
Ok, so I found a hp dana 30 set up for an xj that is mildly reinforced (c gussets) and a rear dana 44 that has been stripped of mounts and brakes. The guy is asking 900 bucks.
They are geared at 4.88 and the rear has a lockrite locker.
The axles had some water leak in when stored outside, through the breather holes.
Pics of rust (dana 30 gears rusted, primarily)
Rear
Rear
Front
Front
Front
Front
Soooo.... my questions are:
Should I pull the trigger and is the price fair? I want to dicker a bit, based on rust, cost of new brackets and welding on d44 and no brakes (disc brake conversion!)
Will the gears be ok, especially if I run synthetic or change more frequently?
Any concerns with the lockrite, other than keep off the gas through snowy corners so the rear end doesn't slide?
I will also be installing a rc long arm kit, reman 231 tc with sye installed, and new driveline.
I plan on running 35s in the summer and 33s in the winter, the rig will sit at 5.5 to 6 inches in total lift.
Thanks in advance!
Last edited by 01xjMontucky; 04-30-2015 at 11:42 AM.
Really? No one? Probably just a lame thread title, I'll wait a day and start a new thread. Needing to make a decision by tomorrow night.
It looks interesting. Front looks pitted so you might end up scrapping that gear. The price is right for the gears and locker alone so it's good buy. I would agree with the other post, negotiate either for a bit less like 800 or see if he's gots some parts to throw in.
That's what I needed. I'll dicker him down and run the gears with synthetic. I want to learn to regear but have freeze plugs, long arm kit, transfer case, driveline, and axle swap all lined up. This is in my dd, so hopefully not a week of downtime. Any other advice appreciated.
Really? No one? Probably just a lame thread title, I'll wait a day and start a new thread. Needing to make a decision by tomorrow night.
I would pass on that deal. If the gears were in the axles I might think differently but it would cost a pretty penny to have those gears set up.
I also think you should find a HP30 to swap. Have that and your 8.25 geared to 4.88s, and full case lockers if you can afford them. Lunchboxes will do the trick if you can't.
A truss for each axles along with c gusset fronts would be pretty sweet. Along with some alloy axle shafts. Also, being at 6" of lift you'll most likely want beefy OTK steering which will require welding a track bar mount to the top of the axle.
Well, he has the hp Dana 30 with gussets.. Those are the rusted gears out of the 30.. He also has them set up for some sort of high steer... AND, he is going to reinstall them for me.
I live in wyoming and can't find a shop willing to gear an axle.. And the cost blows, if I even could. Literally can't find someone... Maybe I'll email tnt customs down in Cheyenne to inquire before I make a stupid choice.
I don't want to swap both axles, but do have a local guy who will weld on them for me. I can get spring perches and shock mounts, no problem. A disc conversion sucks, as I don't want to pay for it, but I want to be able to go and stop and just wait for the engine to croak.., then move onto that.
I like the input and don't need a locker, I'd prefer a selectable and am not likely to pay for one.
If I can source 4.88 gears and an install, the only thing that sucks is that my 8.25 is under my jeep and the other hp Dana 30 i sourced (instead of buying the set i showed above) isnt... Driving to Cheyenne for an install isn't an option at that point..
Why are gears such a b****?
I'm emailing the local crawler club and tnt customs right now before I pull the trigger.
I do appreciate all of the perspective, it is easy to be myopic.
04-26-2015, 11:00 PM
