Lower control arm bolt
 

Hi guys,

Band new to the forum here, but I've owned multiple jeeps over the years and have finally settled on modifying my xj that was a previously a daily driver.

The story: bought a rough country 3" lift mainly because the suspension was shot. I know, I know, should have gone bigger but I'm also looking to do some commuting with my xj so putting it on 37s isn't something I'm looking to do...for now.

My problem: the lower control arm frame bolt is very very stuck. I've scoured this forum, and others looking for a solution that will work to remove this bolt. I have successfully removed the nut.

What I've tried: impact gun, beating with a 5 pound sledge, 3' breaker bar, soaked in pb for about a week, torched it with butane until the bushing was nearly on fire, soaked it immediately with more pb, breaker bar again (twisting but not backing out). Most recently I saw an idea to cut it out with a sawzall, I started trying to cut the bolt out but my blade dulled after about 1/16 of a inch through the bolt and about 20 min of cutting. Tried manipulating the control arm in every way I can (I have removed the axle mounted bolt)

What I am looking for: please forgive me if this post is redundant, I have seen similar threads but I'm looking for some fresh ideas on what has finally worked for someone who has had these issues. This is my first major mod to as I call ole rumbly (leaking exhaust manifold at the moment) but I would love some suggestions on something to remove this. HELP!

Thanks in advance for any experience!

Maybe try a ball joint press

Try this: support your axle on jack stands, then put some additional ones under your frame rails. Unbolt your LCA from your axle. This should remove any load on the frame side bolt. Now pivot the arm up and down. Does the bolt spin with or just stay still? You could try and press it out with a ball joint tool but I don't believe the clamp is wide enough to reach around. I've never stuck mine up there to see. With it like this try more heat and hammering at it. Once you do get it out, when you go to install the new bolts/arms, or any long bolt than runs through a sleeve make sure to put a little anti seize on the smooth shaft and some thread locker on the thread. A lot of people shy away from thread locker but one of its purposes is to keep moisture out and prevents rust from forming inside the nut/thread area

try wd40 rust penetrate. it works wonders. do you have the other nut out and able to move the control arm freely? if you have any load on the bolt it's not going to move easily. It sounds like you have already damaged the bolt though, so you can try an air hammer as well. if you need a flat spot cut the bolt flush with the bracket and then hit it iwth an air hammer after soaking it in wd40. if this all fails, get a good metal blade for your sawzal and go to town

I have read about the ball joint press, its a decently expensive tool. So one of my next attempts to remove it would be using a C clamp with a large socket over the bolt head to give it room to move out. not sure if its ideal but i'm thinking it should do the same job as the press without a specialty tool!

the lower bolt is free so i can move the control arm, but ill have to check if its bound the the control arm by moving the arm and looking at the bolt

I was intending on using grease and thread locker when i finally get the bolt out, i have bought new 9/16 bolts to replace thinking i was going to cut them out...but time makes a fool of us all! and I will try moving the axle around to hopefully remove some potential binding. I will also give the WD product a run.

thanks for the insight, and hopefully I will soon have these out!

If you plan on working on your jeep, and other vehicles often, a good ball joint press isn't a bad investment. You can use it for other things besides ball joints. I used it for my u joints as well.

Just ran into this same problem on my 99. They're completely seized.

I didn't try the breaker bar because I had other stiff to do, and didn't have a helping hand to hold the wrench.

Same thing happened to my 91 though and in the end I had to cut the bolt off. Get a good saws all blade made for thick metal and buy two or three just in case. Cut in between the bracket and the LCA bushing. Get some new bolts before you do that and slather them with anti-seize when you reinstall. Don't use thread locker, get some lock nuts if you're worried about them backing out.

Cobalt sawzall blades

I only recommend thread locker for the rust preventative factor. The low strength kind works fine. Its not the matter of the but backing off.

A thin cut-off wheel will cut the hardened bolt easily. Sawzall will struggle with with it.

Usually the press can be rented from an auto parts store for just a deposit.

Well the better sawzall blade didn't do much better, also my c clamp socket combo didn't fare much better.... I guess it's cutoff wheel time!

Damn. My HF saws all and an Irwin blade took care of a leaf spring bolt (same grade 10 one as control arms) in about 10mins.

Hit it with the cut off wheel.

Cjosulli, I had a problem like yours, I think. I could turn the bolt, but I couldn't slide it out of the bracket. There was to much pressure on the arm, so I took a ratchet strap, and pulled the bottom of the axle forward to release the pressure, and it came out with a little persuasion.

I soaked my LCA body side bolts in the WD-40 Rust penetrate three times about 2 days apart. They wouldn't come out before with my impact.

One side came out with just the impact and the other just needed a little heat from a propane torch and then the impact handled it.

I'd conclude that it works.