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Amazing Info!!! right now Im completely stock, plan to get some 33's and stuff them in! buy longer brake lines and longer shocks to get all the droop I can, and wheel like that until budget allows for a 3in lift. I know Im limited in the rear to juts the cut and fold on the pinch welds, but my question is I don't really know how much to cut off the front ones, I was planing to go all the way up to the body line above the stock fender flare (I have a 2000 XJ for reference) would that be enough? people say you really have to hack your fenders and over exaggerate to run 33's with no lift but I can't seem to find many people that ran this set up or find pictures to give me an idea how much to actually "hack" so let me know what you guys think, if I go all the way to the body line and bump stop would it be enough or would i need to cut more? and yes I know about the washer fluid and will be relocating. appreciate the help! and would appreciate if you guys know of any pictures running this set up, fell free to add tips or advice for my plans.
The amount cut and the bump stops are directly related. The more you cut, the less bump stop you will need. To a point. IIRC, I cut mine to 1.5" below the body line. At that point, the interference becomes the wheel well. Put it on stands (on frame), pull springs, and lift tire until it hits, trim, and repeat. Once you have it cut to a point the wheel well becomes the interference, then measure for bumpstops.
IIRC, I cut mine to 1.5" below the body line. At that point, the interference becomes the wheel well.
Cool! thanks for the help, happen to have any pics? also were you riding on bump stops? I read on this thread something similar but that was running 35's wondering if 33's will ride on bump stops, its not a daily driver but it does see the street from time to time.
Well, I am on 5" of lift. I don't actually have any bump stops installed, haven't had any issues yet. The bump stops are on the shelf in the garage, just haven't gotten around to installing them.
The bump stops set the lower limit for suspension travel. Lift height sets the upper limit for suspension travel. Measure the height of the current tire, subtract from 33, divide by two, call this number 'Tire Difference - TD'. Place a ruler on top of the current tire and check the distance to the wheel well, subtract TD from that number. Subtract another 1/2" or so for bump stop compression. Remaining number will be the suspension travel you will have available.
With me? Let's run through an example.
Current tire size - 27"
33-27=6
3" is the additional radius added to the tire (distance from hub center to outside of tire). Not concerned about where the 3" goes downward, only up.
Measurement from top of tire to wheel well is 5"
5-3=2-1/2=1.5
With these made up numbers, you would have 1.5" of suspension travel available at stock height. You would also extend your bump stops 3.5" to prevent contact of parts.
Above example is purely for illustration purposes, not based on any actual numbers. Will have to do your own math to get an idea of what you are looking at.
Above example is purely for illustration purposes, not based on any actual numbers. Will have to do your own math to get an idea of what you are looking at.
Hey! sorry for the extremely late reply my laptop took a Sh** on me and had to send it in to get it fixed! anyways this is actually really help full and gives me a better idea.
Ive also been looking into how to measure for shock length, Since Im going for a low COG setup and 33s won't have much up travel with no lift I want to get the most droop I can with longer/bigger shocks and found this. (
) skip to 1:09. Ive also read this ( http://www.fourwheeler.com/how-to/su...re-for-shocks/ ) based on the info here is how ill find the shock lengths I need. Just to state the obvious measuring will be done with swaybars disconnected (rear one is completely out) but a question I do have is, the four wheeler site says, "When choosing an extended length, you must be careful not to overextend the brake lines, exceed safe driveshaft angles" Whats an unsafe drive shaft angel? and how do I figure out how drooped can the axels go and stay at safe drive shaft angles?
For brake lines ill be buying some for a 6in + lift (probably won't need all of it but pre-instling when I go 3in lift) Thanks for the help!
Flex it out and check driveline angles. Wont hurt a thing with vehicle stationary. I am 95% sure you will not have an issue, but crazier things have happened. You will have to find the maximum u joint angle for your driveshafts, I'm not sure what they are. Some of the aftermarket driveshaft companies have maximum angles for stock shafts and their shafts listed.
Some of the aftermarket driveshaft companies have maximum angles for stock shafts and their shafts listed.
Cool! Ill start looking for info, if anything my plan is to flex it out to its max while stock see how the angles look like and go from there. Thanks for the help by the way! exited to stat working on it!
Whats up guys! started to cut my fenders today to fit 33s but when i turn right they hit the first bolt that holds the fender (pic below) would it be fine if i just cut it off?
Yes that's fine. It's held on by more than that one bolt
I figured just wanted some reassurance, now new issue I have is I hammered in the wheel well pinch welds and part of the lower wheel well by the door on both sides at full lock it clears but I worry that at some flex it will hit, I fell like i could still hammer it in a little more but don't know how much more I can go be fore I F*** something up.... any tips, ideas or fixes? I fear that if Im going up an obstacle and i have to turn the wheel will hit and will hinder the capability heres a pic of how its so far
Put the hammer down. That should be enough. Considering these XJs are uniframe, you don't want to distort the sheet metal of the chassis too much. May be structural. I think you've gotten the most out of it that you can. Time to add bump stops to stop the bumps.
Put the hammer down. That should be enough. Considering these XJs are uniframe, you don't want to distort the sheet metal of the chassis too much. May be structural. I think you've gotten the most out of it that you can. Time to add bump stops to stop the bumps.
Alright ill stop with the hammer haha just for refresh though Im doing/ attempting 33s on no lift so I haven't measured for bump stops yet its still on stock ones, but with my fenders now cut it'll have some up travel as long as the wheels are straight, my worries is that if I find my self at full lock or decently turned at an obstacle the tire will hit that part of the wheel well WAY WAY before the bump stops ill be measuring for, is there anything I can do? cause if I bump so it won't hit ill basically be riding on bump stops all the time OR am I stuck like this and just avoid flexing it while too turned on an obstacle?
Alright ill stop with the hammer haha just for refresh though Im doing/ attempting 33s on no lift so I haven't measured for bump stops yet its still on stock ones, but with my fenders now cut it'll have some up travel as long as the wheels are straight, my worries is that if I find my self at full lock or decently turned at an obstacle the tire will hit that part of the wheel well WAY WAY before the bump stops ill be measuring for, is there anything I can do? cause if I bump so it won't hit ill basically be riding on bump stops all the time OR am I stuck like this and just avoid flexing it while too turned on an obstacle?
Have you put the tires/wheels on to check it? Cycle the suspension with a jack, or even pull the coils and do it. That part of the floorboard behind the pedals, where you've been hitting, is rarely the issue. The pinch seam is though, and it can be moved back. Watch you don't move anything far enough to foul the pedals though. And no, that part of the unibody isn't really structural, per se, you can move it around and it won't hurt the Jeep any more than wheeling it will.
Also, advice on moving the metal, use a large faced heavy hammer with a short handle, IE a mini-sledge or club hammer, and make many lighter blows all across it rather then just going full hamfist on it in random places. You can push the metal back cleanly enough that most people won't catch on that it happened.
I have 37s on 3" of lift, and have 5 or so inches of up travel, so it's totally possible.
I have 37s on 3" of lift, and have 5 or so inches of up travel, so it's totally possible.
Yo!! sorry just saw this was supper busy with work... anyways, Yes! I did put the tires on to check it, and theres barely any clearance at full lock. I haven't flexed it or pulled the coils, but just eyeballing if I flex it at full lock it will hit the floor board way way before the bump stops that I still have to measure for. I have a video of it in my youtube channel i just recently uploaded of cutting the fenders so you can have a better visual (Mike Thrillz) www.youtube.com/channel/UCxb0cnA2YuwhDvcksvDqfgw My plan is to just hammer a little more and flex see what it does, but my guess is I'm just gonna have to avoid flexing when turned so much.
Man! you have any pics of your rig with that set up? My ultimate goal is to run 37s on a 4.5in lift!
P.S would really appreciate your guys support on my Youtube Channel commenting advise or tips and correcting me as this is my first Jeep and Jeep build, gonna be cutting the rear tomorrow and will attempt the rear quarter panel cut and fold.
09-16-2015, 06:37 PM
