Long arm Vs. Short for drivability.
#16
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There is one thing I have not seen in the posts here and that is what kind of steering do the Jeeps have. A lot of aftermarket steering improvements make a Jeep drive like crap. But to answer the OP question, I have gone from short arm to Y link long arms to three link and I can tell you that right now with everything still tight I drive down the highway with just a couple of fingers on the steering wheel. No steering stabilizer needed. In theory if everything is tight, in specs and good alignment, any ride height within reason and good alignment and tires, it should steer just about like a stock vehicle.
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IdycrawlinXJ (12-15-2022)
#19
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Renix
There is one thing I have not seen in the posts here and that is what kind of steering do the Jeeps have. A lot of aftermarket steering improvements make a Jeep drive like crap. But to answer the OP question, I have gone from short arm to Y link long arms to three link and I can tell you that right now with everything still tight I drive down the highway with just a couple of fingers on the steering wheel. No steering stabilizer needed. In theory if everything is tight, in specs and good alignment, any ride height within reason and good alignment and tires, it should steer just about like a stock vehicle.
#21
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I was on 5.5/5" with RE coils, s10 bastard, relocation boxes, RockyRoad cads, oem control arms, 5100s, JKS rear xover shock mount in the rear and it handled as good as stock and rode better. Its all subjective though. Sadly the old XJ went to a new home. Ill get another one day.
#23
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I don't see anything so far except that it looks like your castor angle is positive, which would affect steering and make it wander
#24
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Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I would like to learn what to look for with this if you don't mind.
#25
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
who the hell set up that antirock bar. is it always at that angle?? It should be close to parallel with the ground at ride height. I'd remove that immediately, I'd be worried your front axle is fighting against it
#26
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
It is now all high quality name brand parts. My last try is going to be to take both axles to a builder to verify and/or straighten housings to make sure all is in spec. Then I am going to tear the jeep down into parts and start my build on the stocker. In my group we already have drop brackets so I might just buy a quality set of short arms and build it that way first so I can feel it all for myself. Only way I will ever know for sure I guess. Pretty easy to then go long arm if I decide the short arms suck,.
springs/ quality shocks working together and being bumped and limited
steering/ track bar working together
suspension installed properly/ not binding or hitting anything
you can't expect a caddy at the end of the day it's still a Cherokee with leaf springs. and comfortable ride quality is subjective
#27
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Renix
Ok. Once again some clarification. I am in no way no how talking about ride. I am talking about handling or more accurately the lack of handling. I don’t care if it rides like a dump truck. Just want it to steer and not constantly hunt on the road. If you look closely at the pic, it’s on a rock In full flex. The anti rock is unhooked on one end and was fully removed long ago. It hurt flex way too much. If you read all my posts, the entire suspension is new and has been changed out for alternate parts many times. It has been to a professional alignment shop. Honestly as mentioned in the first post. I am not looking to analyze my problem, i am asking for answers to the question about handling long arm vs short. Thanks
#28
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Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
okay then what's the point of this thread if you're not trying to figure out your problem as well. short arm vs long arm has very little to do with freeway control unless you jack it up with a tall lift. then the long arms or drop brackets would be better as they'll give you flatter control arm angles
there. thread over
there. thread over
#29
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In the pic, check the arm on the driver side knuckle. It looks like it is pointed slightly down. More so than my reference TJ here which I know is not quite right due to lift
#30
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Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
okay then what's the point of this thread if you're not trying to figure out your problem as well. short arm vs long arm has very little to do with freeway control unless you jack it up with a tall lift. then the long arms or drop brackets would be better as they'll give you flatter control arm angles
there. thread over
there. thread over
And to me "ride" and "handling" go hand in hand. If your jeep rides like a dump truck, it wont have great handling.