Long Arm Upgrade Help
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Reston, VA
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Long Arm Upgrade Help
Hey everyone - I need some help determining which long arm kit to go with. I'll try to be brief and list current set up and what I'm trying to accomplish.
I bought the jeep with a 4.5" lift on it that needs to be replaced (ride quality and off road capabilities suck). I have 33x12.50s with no fenders and t-case drop at the moment with no issues. I've determined to just purchase a full long arm kit to replace whatever is currently on the jeep. I've read on just about every jeep forum about Clayton, Serious, Iron Rock, RE, RC, and Rock Krawler. What I can't figure out is whether I should go with a 3-link or radius. I'm new to suspension talk so please be as non-technical as possible.
My goals are be able to daily drive it and also take it off road to trails with a combination of rock and mud. I am not planning to be indestructible but I would like all around capabilities. Staying at 4.5" would be ideal, but going up an 1" won't matter. Price is a consideration since I will be needing armor, sye, driveshaft, and frame stiffeners I'm sure. With that in mind, can someone help provide a recommendation and why?
Thanks!!
I bought the jeep with a 4.5" lift on it that needs to be replaced (ride quality and off road capabilities suck). I have 33x12.50s with no fenders and t-case drop at the moment with no issues. I've determined to just purchase a full long arm kit to replace whatever is currently on the jeep. I've read on just about every jeep forum about Clayton, Serious, Iron Rock, RE, RC, and Rock Krawler. What I can't figure out is whether I should go with a 3-link or radius. I'm new to suspension talk so please be as non-technical as possible.
My goals are be able to daily drive it and also take it off road to trails with a combination of rock and mud. I am not planning to be indestructible but I would like all around capabilities. Staying at 4.5" would be ideal, but going up an 1" won't matter. Price is a consideration since I will be needing armor, sye, driveshaft, and frame stiffeners I'm sure. With that in mind, can someone help provide a recommendation and why?
Thanks!!
#2
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Model: Cherokee
I'm saving for Clayton, and in the same situation as you basically.. I have a 4.5" RC lift with drop brackets.
I want a three link because of additional security. I've never seen/heard of a radius arm failing, but it only connects to unibody at 2 spots, seems a third would be better. On top of the unloading issue which may or may not actually be an issue.
I'm kind of stuck with Clayton (which isn't a bad thing other than price) because of the way the previous owner build the rock rails. I can't use a cross-member that wraps around so my options are limited.
I want a three link because of additional security. I've never seen/heard of a radius arm failing, but it only connects to unibody at 2 spots, seems a third would be better. On top of the unloading issue which may or may not actually be an issue.
I'm kind of stuck with Clayton (which isn't a bad thing other than price) because of the way the previous owner build the rock rails. I can't use a cross-member that wraps around so my options are limited.
#3
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Andover, VT
Posts: 2,972
Received 226 Likes
on
176 Posts
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0 L
TnT is also a great option. I believe they sell a 3 (or 4) link and radius arm kits. I am currently in the process of installing the radius arm kit.
The biggest difference between 3/4 link and radius arms is that with radius arms the axle turns forward when the suspension droops, whereas 3/4 links the axle stays closer to the correct castor angle
I like TnT because they have the highest clearance kit, but any reputable brand will do te trick. I'd stay away from Rough Country just because it's Rough Country. I also am not a fan I the IRO long arms; nothing against IRO, they're great, just not their long arms.
The biggest difference between 3/4 link and radius arms is that with radius arms the axle turns forward when the suspension droops, whereas 3/4 links the axle stays closer to the correct castor angle
I like TnT because they have the highest clearance kit, but any reputable brand will do te trick. I'd stay away from Rough Country just because it's Rough Country. I also am not a fan I the IRO long arms; nothing against IRO, they're great, just not their long arms.
#5
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: City of Trees, CA
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
9 Posts
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
another positive thing about a 3 link is that it doesn't unload like radius arms do
but the only time I've ever experienced unloading is when the front end was way up high climbing a ledge and leaning way back. the front end would sway and want to push the jeep back end over end. and I mean waaayyy steep ledges. so if you're not planning on those sort of climbs you should be great with radius arms. no reason to go to a 3 link on a D30 in my opinion.
serious offroad or TNT if you're going radius. they have the best belly/tcase protection out the gate last time I checked. belly protection is so important if you want to play in the rocks. and seriousoffroad is actually affordable
don't get IRO or RC. it's an investment. get something that's going to last you a good while.
but the only time I've ever experienced unloading is when the front end was way up high climbing a ledge and leaning way back. the front end would sway and want to push the jeep back end over end. and I mean waaayyy steep ledges. so if you're not planning on those sort of climbs you should be great with radius arms. no reason to go to a 3 link on a D30 in my opinion.
serious offroad or TNT if you're going radius. they have the best belly/tcase protection out the gate last time I checked. belly protection is so important if you want to play in the rocks. and seriousoffroad is actually affordable
don't get IRO or RC. it's an investment. get something that's going to last you a good while.
#6
Seasoned Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: SoCal
Posts: 447
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Most of the ones I have seen don't have truly independent unit body connections anyway.
I would still go 3 link but not for this reason.
#7
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Reston, VA
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I don't really plan to do anything super steep, but if I want to I would like to be able to. I mean the difference in price between a radius arm and 3 link kit isn't too much is it? Seems worth the investment if it's not much different in price. Between tnt and Clayton which do you all recommend?
One of the other things I've been trying to figure out is if frame stiffeners would cause any issues when installing a long arm?
The thing with Clayton is that their 3 link is a 6.5" lift. Think it's possible to make it not as tall?
-Ben
One of the other things I've been trying to figure out is if frame stiffeners would cause any issues when installing a long arm?
The thing with Clayton is that their 3 link is a 6.5" lift. Think it's possible to make it not as tall?
-Ben
Last edited by osinrider04; 09-04-2014 at 08:37 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: City of Trees, CA
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
9 Posts
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I was running TNT arms at 4.5" of lift. I don't think you'll have a problem running any arms at that height. Worst case it will just push your front end forward a bit. I think. Isn't the Clayton kit a weld on truss? If you have a welder and feel like spending the money then yeah.. I'd look at RK. I think they just utilize the factory upper
Still. Radius arms are fine too. I can almost promise you won't encounter a problem with unloading. A 3 link is definitely better, but there's no problem running radius arms. Do whatever you can install that is in your price range. Don't feel like you need to spend $900-$1200.
Still. Radius arms are fine too. I can almost promise you won't encounter a problem with unloading. A 3 link is definitely better, but there's no problem running radius arms. Do whatever you can install that is in your price range. Don't feel like you need to spend $900-$1200.
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Reston, VA
Posts: 155
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
One of the things I didn't mention is that I don't have access to a welder. I can probably find some help local to me to help with a kit install but I don't know any welders and I have zero experience doing it myself. Serious sells a long arm upgrade kit that is a bolt on kit. Any opinions on going that route? It's certainly way cheaper than buying a complete kit.
#10
Junior Member
I was running TNT arms at 4.5" of lift. I don't think you'll have a problem running any arms at that height. Worst case it will just push your front end forward a bit. I think. Isn't the Clayton kit a weld on truss? If you have a welder and feel like spending the money then yeah.. I'd look at RK. I think they just utilize the factory upper
Still. Radius arms are fine too. I can almost promise you won't encounter a problem with unloading. A 3 link is definitely better, but there's no problem running radius arms. Do whatever you can install that is in your price range. Don't feel like you need to spend $900-$1200.
Still. Radius arms are fine too. I can almost promise you won't encounter a problem with unloading. A 3 link is definitely better, but there's no problem running radius arms. Do whatever you can install that is in your price range. Don't feel like you need to spend $900-$1200.
One of the things I didn't mention is that I don't have access to a welder. I can probably find some help local to me to help with a kit install but I don't know any welders and I have zero experience doing it myself. Serious sells a long arm upgrade kit that is a bolt on kit. Any opinions on going that route? It's certainly way cheaper than buying a complete kit.
FWIW, I run the RK 3-link.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Longview, TX
Posts: 689
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
One of the things I didn't mention is that I don't have access to a welder. I can probably find some help local to me to help with a kit install but I don't know any welders and I have zero experience doing it myself. Serious sells a long arm upgrade kit that is a bolt on kit. Any opinions on going that route? It's certainly way cheaper than buying a complete kit.
If you want to go that route, I highly recommend them.
#13
CF Veteran
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Warren, Pa
Posts: 2,164
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I agree with this 100%. I feel like if you aren't wheeling hard enough to need something stronger than a d30, you probably don't need a 3 link. Don't get me wrong, I LOVE 3 links but, for the money, the Serious Offroad long arms would be great. Plus, Frank is an awesome dude to deal with and has the best customer service I've ever experienced.
#14
CF Veteran
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: City of Trees, CA
Posts: 7,387
Likes: 0
Received 10 Likes
on
9 Posts
Year: 93 2 door
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
no downside really. especially at the D30 level. you're overthinking it. serious long arms are already 10x better than what you have and they're plenty good enough for what you're doing. just place your order and call it a day