Lift questions, please help!
#1
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L MPI V8 (318)
Lift questions, please help!
Hey all, I'm wanting to do a 2" lift on my 1994 Cherokee Country, and I've got a rough idea of what I'm wanting to do. The first question I have is will OME leaf packs (Light Load) fit my year/model XJ? If so, that's what I'm doing for the rear for those 2".
Second, I'm just doing a simple 2" coil spacer lift in the front. With that, is that possible to keep my stock springs, or do I need to upgrade them to work with the spacers?
If those OME packs won't fit, I'm just gonna do add a leafs by 4wd.com in the rear and the spacers up front. The AAL's I think will be alright, because my jeep is a 1994 and is not sagging at all.
Thanks!!!
Second, I'm just doing a simple 2" coil spacer lift in the front. With that, is that possible to keep my stock springs, or do I need to upgrade them to work with the spacers?
If those OME packs won't fit, I'm just gonna do add a leafs by 4wd.com in the rear and the spacers up front. The AAL's I think will be alright, because my jeep is a 1994 and is not sagging at all.
Thanks!!!
#3
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L straight Six
I also did some searching, (since I had never heard of OME) and for less then the cost of that 2" lift, you can get the same 4.5" lift I installed on mine! With extras! Just a thought...
Rough Country Suspensions and BDS both have 1.5" to 2" spacer lits for a fraction of the cost, and everything is included for bolt on.... Just a thought.
Rough Country Suspensions and BDS both have 1.5" to 2" spacer lits for a fraction of the cost, and everything is included for bolt on.... Just a thought.
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0HO
well here is the deal...the Country already sits 1" higher than stock
so 2" on your Cherokee Country would really be a 3" kit...
rough country is a great kit for the money, they even come with upgraded control arms in many cases
try to avoid the Add a Leaf kits if you can...
don't worry about a track bar... you can just redrill the mount on as much as 4.5" lift...
3.5" and under will give you the least amount of issues
4"+ is where drive lines become and issue, the rear
you can correct this with a transfer case drop and shimming the rear axle (done in that order, try to avoid the shims if you can)
also your shocks should be good up to a 2" kit... maybe 3" with a set of bar pin eliminators
another option is to build an S10 bastard pack in the rear and add some coils spacers in the front
so 2" on your Cherokee Country would really be a 3" kit...
rough country is a great kit for the money, they even come with upgraded control arms in many cases
try to avoid the Add a Leaf kits if you can...
don't worry about a track bar... you can just redrill the mount on as much as 4.5" lift...
3.5" and under will give you the least amount of issues
4"+ is where drive lines become and issue, the rear
you can correct this with a transfer case drop and shimming the rear axle (done in that order, try to avoid the shims if you can)
also your shocks should be good up to a 2" kit... maybe 3" with a set of bar pin eliminators
another option is to build an S10 bastard pack in the rear and add some coils spacers in the front
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#9
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what condition are your rear springs in now? If they are still good I would advise getting a front coil spacer and rear shackle. under 100.00 for the set shipped and its not going to mess with your ride quality you have now. I would look into getting new shocks but those can be purchased at a later date.
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Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L MPI V8 (318)
Like I said, I have shocks that are enabled for another 2" of lift already, new as of last month. The leafs I have now are in good condition I believe, no sagging at all, look good. How do shackles work in the rear? and are they hard to install for a novice like myself?
#11
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Like I said, I have shocks that are enabled for another 2" of lift already, new as of last month. The leafs I have now are in good condition I believe, no sagging at all, look good. How do shackles work in the rear? and are they hard to install for a novice like myself?
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Year: 1990
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Engine: Renix 4.0
Longer aftermarket shackles would replace you shorter stock shackles. Its "only" 2 bolts per side, but they can commonly be a pain.
I recommend doing it yourself. You will gain confidence in working on your jeep, and it will help you to get to know how your Jeep functions. Buy some penetrating lube(liquid wrench, PB blaster, deep creep, or even WD-40) and spray the upper and lower shackle bolt threads once a day for a week. Then go to town. Search around for how shackles are swapped, but I have a feeling that once you look at the job you can figure it out. You need a jack, jack stands, appropriate sockets or wrenches. Make sure you do this on level ground and properly support your rig. Take your rear tires off and throw them under your rig. It will catch the jeep if it falls, helping you to not be flattened if you are under it. Take your time and be patient. You can do it!
I recommend doing it yourself. You will gain confidence in working on your jeep, and it will help you to get to know how your Jeep functions. Buy some penetrating lube(liquid wrench, PB blaster, deep creep, or even WD-40) and spray the upper and lower shackle bolt threads once a day for a week. Then go to town. Search around for how shackles are swapped, but I have a feeling that once you look at the job you can figure it out. You need a jack, jack stands, appropriate sockets or wrenches. Make sure you do this on level ground and properly support your rig. Take your rear tires off and throw them under your rig. It will catch the jeep if it falls, helping you to not be flattened if you are under it. Take your time and be patient. You can do it!
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The rear shackles are easy to replace with an extended shackle. It's literally as easy as jacking the Jeep up by the rear bumper just enough to take the weight off the rear suspension (tires should not be off the ground). Loosen the shackle lower nut and bolt and knock the bolt out. You may have to play with your jack height to get that sweet spot where the weight is off the suspension but yet the suspension isn't hanging from the spring, either, so the bolt will come out farely easy. Now, just remove the upper bolt that holds the shackle to the frame. There is no nut for this bolt. It is an anchornut in the frame. You may need liberal amounts of PB blaster for this depending on how rusty things are. Once the upper bolt is out sling the stock shackle into the weeds...lol. Just put your extended shackle in the stock shackles place. You will most likely need to go a little higher on your jack to get the extended shackle to bolt into place between the frame and the leaf spring. That is a good thing, though. It means your Jeep is definitely sitting higher than it did with the stock shackle.
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