DE98Sport

I've spent the last few weeks pondering about a lift kit and parts for my '98 XJ and this is what I've come up with...(constructive criticism and ideas are always welcome)...I think I'm going to leave out lockers for now until I get more experience without them; which I heard could make me a better driver.

Well here it is:

Rough Country:
-Jeep XJ 4.5" X-series Suspension Kit [633X]
-Slip Yoke Eliminator [50-7906]
-Jeep XJ Short Arm CV Rear Driveshaft [5076]
-Jeep XJ Performance 2.2 Series Steering Stabilizer [PERF87317]
-Jeep XJ Control Arm Drop Kit [1627]
-84-01 Jeep XJ Cherokee (Dana 30 HP / 8.25) 4.10 Gear Package [XJ 30/8.25 4.10M] (might be able to get USED)
-HD track bar upgrade
-2.2 Performance shock upgrade
-adjustable lift shackle and 3" leaf spring rear instead of the supplied 4" leaf spring

-15x8" Wheels Crager Soft 8's

-32x11.50 tires (Haven't decided on these yet, but I do like the BFG M/T KM2)

-CURRECTLYNC® - TJ/LJ/XJ/MJ HEAVY DUTY TIE ROD (COMPLETE) (this part/brand is def. still up in the air, but I know it would be a worthwhile investment to upgrade to a stronger tie rod)

Any input would be greatly appreciated cause I wanna somehow still have money leftover for some armor (bumpers, skids, rock rails, etc.)

Jake

liftedjeepxj

No point in putting in stronger tie rods when the linkage will be weak. Unless i missed something about you replacing the steering, you should replace all of it rather than just the tie rods. JCR's 1 ton steering is a huge difference. I am waiting to get a reamer to get mine started.

DE98Sport

Its funny that you said this cause i was just looking at their steering kit after I posted this and I was impressed so far by it

liftedjeepxj

I was given the rods free by a friend in MI. I can pick up the tie rod ends at the local pepboys and save a bit of money. The steering itself from JCR is amazingly stronger. I just need to spend another 80 on the reamer bit itself

DE98Sport

Yea I heard about those bits...its a shame they're so expensive, i think thats one of the main reasons why people dont upgrade their steering at all or maybe not all the way

liftedjeepxj

Well I would suggest it easily because the insane amount of difference between the thinkness of the tubes between stock and JCR. I guess when i finally get around to buying the reamer ill shoot you a message about it. Free linkage and i can get the 4 rod ends at pepboys for around 80 bucks... I think ill do it all when the tax return comes in :P

DE98Sport

That'd be nice to here about how it goes with the reamer when you get around to it.
taxes

BeaglesXJ

Go for an 8 inch rim instead of the 10 inch. Especially with only an 11.50 tire. If you go with the 10 then it will be easier for the tire to roll off the bead while wheeling or airing down. Also why would you want to get a Dana 35? Go with a c8.25 from a 97 or later model XJ.

liftedjeepxj

Agreed. I have 32-11.50 15's on my 15x7 black steels.

DE98Sport

Yea I made a mistake and wrote the wrong number for the wheel size and axle...i do have a 8.25 rear axle and it makes sense to use the 8" wide wheel

Thanks lol sorry for the typo

blondejoncherokee

here is a better idea, since you need experience start cheap and easy.

RC does a 3" lift for 255 shipped if youre on naxja or cherokeeforum
it comes with shocks/aals/coils

then throw an extra stock isolator or two on there, some shackles in the rear, dakota rear brake lines, 95 GMC 3/4 ton 2wd front lines, and actually go wheel your junk.

save your money for down the road and buy good parts that are used for cheap.
i sell so many used lifts and lift parts and install so many lifts and wheel with so many XJs.
it amazing what the following will get you through(i gave the following parts for free to my good friend):
bastard pack rear
remove rear sway bar
used rear shocks
used shackles
dakota rear line
stock front lines moved down
3.5" used coils
used shocks
homemade 12$ quick discos (front discos and longer shocks/brakelines make a big difference)
8 31s mounted on rims that all had low tread, but usable
factory skids
fender trimming,
homemade rear bumpstop extensions and junkyard comanche bumpstops(longer than XJ) and
ZJ steering from pnp for 36$
we spent nothing on this, but this is the kind of stuff you find used for cheap.
his jeep runs most trails. not with ease, but he gets through. i pull him through the nasty stuff when needed.

we are gonna throw some 3.55 axles and a front aussie in(axles are free, he has a manual with 3.07s) and just keep it cheap.


i say do a cheap 3- 3.5" lift, and wheel it.
then start to find where your limitations are.
aftermarket lcas and ucas are a good idea down the road.
maybe drops, maybe long arms.
save money for good shocks like 5150s, 7100s, any monotube shock made by a good manufacturer.
you come to find that a cheap lift like the above will do alot.
actually wheeling your junk does a lot too.

then just buy good used parts when you find a deal.
with all the money you save doing the above youll have enough left over for sliders and a locker.

blondejoncherokee

dont ever do a 10" wide rim or larger.
8" is great .

Irongrave

if your going to fully build your rig once with the stock to stupid approach screw RC

get this kit
http://claytonoffroad.com/product_in...roducts_id/113

DE98Sport

This is all great info! keep it comin!

I fixed my mistakes on the wheel and axle type

I will be toning my plan down after what I've heard most people say so far about it, but thats good cause i dont wanna just waste my money lol

Thanks again for the input

blondejoncherokee

at 3.5 you prob wont get vibes . if so try and drop the tcase until you can afford a sye and then just use a stock front shaft since they are cheap and work great.