Keeps trying to quit
 

Hi all,

New here, Don't know if this is the correct section to post this let me know if it isnt.

I have a 1988 Jeep Laredo Cherokee 4.0 4WD Fuel Injected...

I took it t a repair shop, and of course they found a different problem which i never had, they couldnt get the jeep to start at all and found out the crankshaft sensor was bad. but like i said never had a problem with it not starting i think they made it up..lol

The reason i brought it to them which they couldnt fix it or find out what is the problem since they couldnt get it to happen when they drove it..

But when i go somewhere and may take 30 minutes or longer to get there which dont think it matter how long i drive it, is that the fuel gauge needle will go all the way pass full and goes as far as it can when that happens my jeep starts to quit like its not getting any gas. i have to keep pressing on the gas pedal to keep it going then when the needle turns back to normal then it runs fine. this keeps happening like every 3 minutes or so...
one of the repair techs took out the connection that goes to the fuel pump saying it was green and croaded which he clean the connectors and put it back in it seem to work which he cleaned it back 4 weeks ago and i usually only drive my jeep on the weekends and it just happened yesterday....

So can someone give me some ideas what is causing this and how to fix it for good tired of having it trying to have it quit when i am driving and dont want to get stuck on the side of the road somewhere or blocking the road if it does quit.

thanks

Jon

Do this yourself first:

Renix Ground Refreshing
The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components.
The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are:
Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU "Shift Point Logic", Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.
The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:
Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.
While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely.
Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.
First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely.
Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4" socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely.
A suggestion regarding the braided cable:
I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18" long with a 3/8" lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116.
A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10" long with 3/8" terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115.
　
　
If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price.
　
Revised 11-28-2011