01xjcny

have a 01 xj d30 front with mile marker manual lock out conversion and the wheel studs keep shearing off. Have the mickey thompson wheel with the fake bead lock and have the lug nuts that i was told to use with them. Have had no problems with the rear


anyone else run into this problem

EvstaG

What are you torquing your wheels to?

01xjcny

100 ft lbs the first time yesterday i had it set to 80 when checking them but the fell off when putting the socket on and i can unscrew the broken stud right out of the lug nut

Hamster

That is very odd. I just looked it up and the lug nut torque for your year model is 85 to 115 ft. lbs.
I don't know why it lists such a broad range because it shows 75 ft. lbs. for my 90 model.

01xjcny

well mine could be different it has aftermarket conversion on it stock wheel studs wont work it uses something like a older f 250 i have replaced them all since i have own it and it is the second time one has sheered off like this also i lost a wheel before

ClassicX

I'm about to do this hub conversion and the shop told me about this problem.... They said that to remedy it they would weld the studs or something, I didn't really pay attention at the time but since reading your post I'm curious exactly what the problem is with the hub conversion that would cause the studs to sheer. ... . I'm a little concerned now. I'm supposed to go there tomorrow, so ill see what they say.

Big David

I have the same problem.Cheap metal?

I came to the conclusion my issue was in using a 1/2 ratchet & breaker bar when removing the lug nuts.
I would side load the nut with about 100 lbs of torque.I am more careful now NOT to try to side load it.

My suggestion is to use a impact gun on it (to remove them).I even bought a 24v cordless inpact for the trails but have not tried it yet.

Summit & others offer chromoly studs.Thats my next step.

BTW,I wouldn't weld the studs,unless you have a problem with them spinning in the axle shafts.

Lead Foot

Impact gun to get them loose maybe. But NEVER rely on an impact when tightening a lug nut. It should always be hand torqued.

Big David

Yeah,I guess I wasn't clear.

I meant to say "use a impact gun to REMOVE the lug nuts".

ALWAYS hand tighten & torque manually.

pedalnerd

I would question how you are installing them? If you are pulling them in that would explain some of this, I would try pressing them in if haven't already.

01xjcny

i work in cars for a living so i am a pro at taking this hub apart by now, i install the studs with a air hammer drive threw the back side pretty easy to fix just need to know what to install, dont need another wheel off

Hamster

I use a 19.2V 1/2" cordless impact that I got at Sears to remove my lug nuts but also, to run them in and snug them down enough to keep the wheel from tilting when I drop the jack.
For final torque, I use a clicker type torque wrench (also Craftsman) set at the recommended 75 ft. lbs..

I've had zero issues using this method.

Big David

I pressed mine in with a socket & C-clamp.Works like a charm.

dynasty_v6

crap! how fast were you going when that happened? only the rotor damaged?

JBimmolate

Is it breaking off flush with the hub or where it protrudes through the outer hub assembly? If breaking off flush at the hub it is because the studs are flexing under a load. You can see in the pics where the outer hub has been chewing the studs. I would suggest drilling out the outer hubs and putting steel sleeves that fit tight against the stud. so there is no play between the studs & the outer hub. What is happening may be that when in 4x4 the torque is hammering away at the studs until they fail.

Miles